I've been using bio in my V plate TD5 for about 18 months now. I started off cautiously using 50/50 mixes etc, then gradually built up - more about gettting the courage rather than easing the engine into it. So far its done over 25,000 miles with no real bio problems.
After 2,000 miles the fuel filter needed changing as it was screaming a wee bit, but that's normal as the bio strips all the crap from the inside of the tank and bungs it into the filter. Since then I've not changed the filter, s'pose I should do that soon....
I did get a fright once when the engine started playing up - low revs, white smoke etc. Turned out to be the fuel pump that had failed, so replaced that and all ok. I wondered if it was the bio, but the new ones been going strong for the last 15,000 plus miles.
I make my own bio 'cos I'm tight and don't trust the quality of some of the crap out there. If you're paying less than £1 a litre for commercial stuff chances are that it's not road legal - so the seller won't have insurance either if it stuffs up your machine due to their bad processing.
I'm not a purist in how I make it - sometimes its still got about 5% unreacted oil in it and a few soaps, but the TD5 just ploughs through it all the same.
Benefits, other than cost are that the engine runs more smoothly on it, there's a bit more pull due to the higher cetane value of bio, and it still amazes me that you take crappy oil from a hotel and turn it into fuel.
I run 100% all the time in summer and winter - around October I start adding winteriser to the fuel, although this year I think I'll try adding 10% petrol instead and see how that fares.
I'd heard a lot of concern about using bio in a TD5 but to be honest its a load of bs. The guys from greenworld fuels produce bio and they have masses of experience of lots of different vehicles filling up on their forecourt. They've never had any problems and never had anyone claim on their insurance. Bottom line is that if it's made properly, settled, polished and filtered before it goes in the tank then its comparable to mineral diesel.
There are a load of helpful thread on the discussion forum at vegetableoildiesel.co.uk if anyone gets stuck too.
After 2,000 miles the fuel filter needed changing as it was screaming a wee bit, but that's normal as the bio strips all the crap from the inside of the tank and bungs it into the filter. Since then I've not changed the filter, s'pose I should do that soon....
I did get a fright once when the engine started playing up - low revs, white smoke etc. Turned out to be the fuel pump that had failed, so replaced that and all ok. I wondered if it was the bio, but the new ones been going strong for the last 15,000 plus miles.
I make my own bio 'cos I'm tight and don't trust the quality of some of the crap out there. If you're paying less than £1 a litre for commercial stuff chances are that it's not road legal - so the seller won't have insurance either if it stuffs up your machine due to their bad processing.
I'm not a purist in how I make it - sometimes its still got about 5% unreacted oil in it and a few soaps, but the TD5 just ploughs through it all the same.
Benefits, other than cost are that the engine runs more smoothly on it, there's a bit more pull due to the higher cetane value of bio, and it still amazes me that you take crappy oil from a hotel and turn it into fuel.
I run 100% all the time in summer and winter - around October I start adding winteriser to the fuel, although this year I think I'll try adding 10% petrol instead and see how that fares.
I'd heard a lot of concern about using bio in a TD5 but to be honest its a load of bs. The guys from greenworld fuels produce bio and they have masses of experience of lots of different vehicles filling up on their forecourt. They've never had any problems and never had anyone claim on their insurance. Bottom line is that if it's made properly, settled, polished and filtered before it goes in the tank then its comparable to mineral diesel.
There are a load of helpful thread on the discussion forum at vegetableoildiesel.co.uk if anyone gets stuck too.
I have ran my 300tdi on 100% Bio for 2 years now with no problems other than changing the diesel filter. I get less mpg from bio but I do put my foot down more as I know it's not cost me as much per ltr.
some batches of bio I can get 550 miles per tank and other times I can get 400 per tank
just proves the quality of bio aint the same out of every batch.
eg: 100ltrs of fuel 3 filter changes
had 400ltrs of fuel upto now and not changed the filter once.
I think most cars can run on bio diesel but the fact that the quality of bio cannot be guarenteed every time this is the reason why most car garages say do not use bio in modern cars.
some batches of bio I can get 550 miles per tank and other times I can get 400 per tank
just proves the quality of bio aint the same out of every batch.eg: 100ltrs of fuel 3 filter changes
had 400ltrs of fuel upto now and not changed the filter once.
I think most cars can run on bio diesel but the fact that the quality of bio cannot be guarenteed every time this is the reason why most car garages say do not use bio in modern cars.
I have ran my 300tdi on 100% Bio for 2 years now with no problems other than changing the diesel filter. I get less mpg from bio but I do put my foot down more as I know it's not cost me as much per ltr.
some batches of bio I can get 550 miles per tank and other times I can get 400 per tank
eg: 100ltrs of fuel 3 filter changes
had 400ltrs of fuel upto now and not changed the filter once.
I think most cars can run on bio diesel but the fact that the quality of bio cannot be guarenteed every time this is the reason why most car garages say do not use bio in modern cars.
next time you buy some bio take a jar 1/3rd full of water, ask for a sample of the bio and fill the jar to 2/3rds full give it a good shake and let settle for 5 min's,
you should get clear water at the bottom and cloudy bio above, if the water is white the bio has not been cleaned properly and you should not put it in your tank.
I wouldn't worry too much about the soap test hifly. I did that one several times when I was starting out producing my own bio and kept getting disappointed by the results and worried about using it. The most important test is the 27/3 test to see how much unreacted oil is left in the bio.
There are a lot of purists out there striving for near perfect quality bio, but the fact is that the TD5 has a very good tolerance for bio, even when its a bit soapy. I've found no problem with the bio I've been producing - over 30,000 miles so far. Some of it with no unreacted oil in it, some of it with up to 6% unreacted oil in it, all of it with a few soaps in it I'm sure.
As long as you try to be sensible and remove the excess methanol properly (i.e. distill a few litres of excess off, then pass into settling tank and run a bubble ring through it for 6+ hours, then settle for a few days and finally polish through ecopure) you should be ok.
Plus provided you're sensible and add a winteriser when it starts getting cold you can run 100%bio through winter no problems - I did that last year and it was all good. After all summer pump diesel will freeze in winter as it's got no additive in it - they start adding it in sept/oct.
There are a lot of purists out there striving for near perfect quality bio, but the fact is that the TD5 has a very good tolerance for bio, even when its a bit soapy. I've found no problem with the bio I've been producing - over 30,000 miles so far. Some of it with no unreacted oil in it, some of it with up to 6% unreacted oil in it, all of it with a few soaps in it I'm sure.
As long as you try to be sensible and remove the excess methanol properly (i.e. distill a few litres of excess off, then pass into settling tank and run a bubble ring through it for 6+ hours, then settle for a few days and finally polish through ecopure) you should be ok.
Plus provided you're sensible and add a winteriser when it starts getting cold you can run 100%bio through winter no problems - I did that last year and it was all good. After all summer pump diesel will freeze in winter as it's got no additive in it - they start adding it in sept/oct.
I'm going to be running on bio from tomorrow, hopefully. I am in the process of making my first batch and hope to have it ready by tomorrow evening. I've bought some coldflow 350 to add for the winter, so hopefully won't have many problems with the cold weather. Might have to get a new battery, though, because my 300 tdi has taken a few turns to start on the coldest mornings this year and that's with regular diesel.
Cheers, I've got the spare filter in the car ready in case I need it. How would I check to see if all the glow plugs are working? Car starts very well usually, just turns over a few times before firing when it's cold enough for a frost.
LandyRover23
New Member
try glowing a few times first in future then should be ok having same prob atm with mine on very cold days. way to test them is here ...... How to test Glow Plugs on all diesel engines - YouTube
discochimp
New Member
I would love to put my TD5 on it but still not sure, it's good to see that some people have the balls to do it I might take some time to look into
discomania
Well-Known Member
Running the 300tdi since 2004 on the stuff on and off, mainly in summer months (can't be bothered making it in the cold) Leak off pipes perished, £3 fix.
TD5 is a pain in the backside on the stuff.
TD5 is a pain in the backside on the stuff.
Started running on bio today, (after a few hiccups with the processing!), and my Disco loves it! Got a spare fuel filter, length of leak off tubing and tools in the car, just in case. I'll be cleaning the sedimenter out over the next few days, just so I'll know how to do it when I need to.
Got a couple of questions. First, where can I get a new seal for the sedimenter? I have looked in all the usual places and can't find one. Second, when the time comes to change the fuel filter, will I get much warning, or will the car just stop running?
EDIT: Just found these on fleabay http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=sedimentor+seals&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Got a couple of questions. First, where can I get a new seal for the sedimenter? I have looked in all the usual places and can't find one. Second, when the time comes to change the fuel filter, will I get much warning, or will the car just stop running?
EDIT: Just found these on fleabay http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=sedimentor+seals&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Last edited:
