John S

Well-Known Member
Got to the end of my track and just about to join the public road when there was a dull clunk from the clutch and then no drive. I can put it in gear, there is pressure at the pedal, release the clutch and it doesn't stall the engine. Possibly the thrust bearing?:(
 
It's a series, that's pretty much the classic symptom of a broken rear driveshaft - try jamesmartin's diagnostic technique, if you have drive in 4wd but no drive in 2wd but you can see the rear prop turning it's a driveshaft. Not too expensive to fix but a bit fiddly, should take you an afternoon. Get back to us when you have a better diagnosis.
 
Thanks guys. I had already tried the 4/2 wdr suggestion. The other point to note is that the handbrake is not working. So, no power being transferred from engine to gearbox? The handbrake replies on the connection between the engine and the gearbox. I did a full clutch replacement 5 yrs ago but didn't do the thrust bearing. Had a nosey underneath this afternoon but nothing untoward. Also just did the diff oil seal two months ago. Changing the bearing is a ****ter of a job, got a local clutch specialist so I'll see what he reckons. Just into and this happens. I could have been worse if it happened out on the road somewhere. I'll keep u posted.
 
'Ang on a minute.

The handbrake stops the back gearbox output shaft and rear propshaft turning. The propshaft stops the back wheels from turning (on firm dry ground). It will stop the front propshaft from turning if you put the transfer box into 4wd.

If the handbrake is actually operating, and it does not stop the car moving, then you probably have a broken rear half shaft.

It is only 'connected' to the engine/clutch when the main box is in gear.
 
Thanks guys. I had already tried the 4/2 wdr suggestion. The other point to note is that the handbrake is not working. So, no power being transferred from engine to gearbox? The handbrake replies on the connection between the engine and the gearbox. I did a full clutch replacement 5 yrs ago but didn't do the thrust bearing. Had a nosey underneath this afternoon but nothing untoward. Also just did the diff oil seal two months ago. Changing the bearing is a ****ter of a job, got a local clutch specialist so I'll see what he reckons. Just into and this happens. I could have been worse if it happened out on the road somewhere. I'll keep u posted.

hand brake relies on locking output shaft and so prop to transfer box casing, not engine at all, a broken rear half shaft would effect hand brake a failed release bearing wouldnt cause lack of drive ,a ripped clutch center might
 
Yup, learned that one the hard way, broke a driveshaft on a hill in the town centre, had to let the vehicle roll back against the kerb so I could get out and engage the freewheel hubs. Plenty of threads about driveshaft replacements on here. You'll have to count the splines on the shaft to get the right one - there's two types.
 
Duh moment! Did as suggested guys. Yup its one of the rear half shafts. Never had this happy before going back 3 S3 landys, so new experience. Off to cross check the parts catalogue. Day off tomorrow so will pull the shafts n see what the damage is. Thanks for ur advice.
 
You'll find the shaft has broken at the diff end - there's a weak spot there. It means you can remove the shaft with the drive member and remove the broken bit with the diff. Replace both shafts 'cos if one has fatigued and snapped the other will soon follow. Remove the diff, clean out all the swarf (caused by the broken ends rubbing together) replace the oil seal while you're there and it'll be as good as new. You'll need two shafts, two drive member gaskets, a drive pinion oil seal, a diff case gasket, 1.75 litres of ep 90 and a tube of hylomar.
 
Guys thanks for the advice; correct diagnosis! Spent all weekend grovelling under the Landry. With only axle stands it's a bastard of a job, especially getting the diff back in. Oil, crude n dust everywhere. So, as u said it had busted on the L/H driveshaft at the diff. But hey what's going on? I have a zombie driveshaft! It is 10 splines at the diff and multi splines at the drive flange....so what did I have from Craddocks? A multi spline at both ends. There's no part no in my original LR catalogue for a multi spline shaft at the drive shaft and ten splines at the diff. Is this a S2 version? Solution is to order older shaft with 10 splines n new drive flange to match. Anybody come across this type of shaft? Craddocks say the bevel gears are out of production so a previous owner has done a fix based on secondhand market?
 
Late model Series 3 (June 1980 onwards) had 10 splines at the diff and 21 or 23 (I forget) at the flange.
 
That's interesting. Craddocks n the parts catalogue do not cover the multi spline (24) at the flange with 10 at the diff. Mine's a late 83 model so that makes sense. Means the R/H side 24/24 is odd spec. The part no is definitely SWB. The R/H side is an aftermarket made in India, could be something to do with JLR being owned by Tatra.
 
Got 10 spline half shaft and hopefully good to go once I get time tomorrow with better weather to do the job. My research pulls a blank on a part no for a 10 spline diff end and 24 spline drive flange shaft. I now have 24 spline on the short and ten on the long. I can only surmise that a previous owner has retro fitted a S2a beveled gear at the diff as it's a discontinued part. I am relieved to get a fix as I didn't fancy having to open up the diff again. It's testament to a landy's design that you can mix and match. Not Mitch Chance with a modern popular car even a long running model.
 

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