Hi ,I do ccv trials with 235x85 insa's with disco steelies on the back and modular 7x16's on the front.can anybody advise the best wheels to fit to get the best steering circle with these tyres?always fancied Machs or zu's but quite pricey so want to make sure they will be better than what I'm already using
owl
Well-Known Member
The wheels you have arn't so bad. But early series rims on the rear to keep the track narrow and forward contol, 1 ton or 130 rims on the front or any other steel rim with alot of offset.In ALRC spacers ain't allowed but if you are in ALRC you prob know that, also alot of peep's run 205's for the extra bit of lock.
Paulmitchell1984
Well-Known Member
alot of the lads i trial(ed) with use disco rims, cut out the centres turn and re weld..your only doing low speed so not too much risk but needs to be welded exaclty squar ein the wheel to prevent wobble.
owl
Well-Known Member
Yes when I started competing many moons ago we used to get the early LWB rims and remove the rivets and turn the rim around, set the offset and weld the centre back in. I used to comp on them no prob.
I have heard reports of diy welded wheels failing though so only do if you are confident in your welding, even at trials speed a rim and tyre could cause a serious injury to a spectator.
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
I use 235/85 kaimans on modulars I'd like wide offset fronts and narrow rear but this wouldn't be good on the road as its still a road vehicle, mainly for green laneing but still,
Matt Baxter
Active Member
got these on my disco
16" Challenger Steel Wheel Landrover Defender modular 16x7 | eBay
plenty of offset so really good steering lock
16" Challenger Steel Wheel Landrover Defender modular 16x7 | eBay
plenty of offset so really good steering lock
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200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
got these on my disco
16" Challenger Steel Wheel Landrover Defender modular 16x7 | eBay
plenty of offset so really good steering lock
it is a balance though between better lock and wider rear track, which increases the turning circle, hence why trials vehicles have wide fronts and narrow rears to get the best of both
disco200tdi1989
New Member
got these on my disco
16" Challenger Steel Wheel Landrover Defender modular 16x7 | eBay
plenty of offset so really good steering lock
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
You can spend ALOT of money on wheels for no real gain. Max allowed for ALRC is 102 mm from the naive plate to the outter rim. Look out for 130 rims which are ok ish offset and and swb rims on the rear. I have a set of Austin champ front rims and swb rear rims for the trials motor.
I do plan on using RRC Rostyle rims because they are quite a narrow light and strong enough rim. I have de rivited one and will spin the centres around on 3 of them and leave 3 of them std.
You need to think about what you want the wheel to do. Sounds really silly doesent it but alot of money can be spent on asthetics and each to their own no problem spending money to make it look nice if it suits your needs. Just bare in mind its usually the money spent hidden in mechanicals that keep it a vehicle ultra reliable.
My criteria for a wheel for trialer/comp motor would be:
Must be Steel (can be hammered back when it bends the rim back over itself whereas alloys crack deflate).
I want a narrowish rim, Personal choice.
Ideally the ability to gremove the hub without removing the wheel. (This is where rostyles fall down).
Light as possible less rotating mass/unsprung weight always good.
MUST be max allowed offset on the front and narrow/medium offset on the rear.
Personally I don't see the point in Mach 5 rims or the copys that go for a vast ammount of cash even s/h because they offer no greater advantage over std rims they used to be very light for comp safari racing but they used to fail aswell. Zu alloys for the same reason that i would cry if I hit a rock and damaged one.
I just sold a set of alloys which are Super Super light wolfrace rims. I was tempted to keep them as they are so very light however only 15 inch rims so no go for our club and i really don't think they would last ccving.
I do plan on using RRC Rostyle rims because they are quite a narrow light and strong enough rim. I have de rivited one and will spin the centres around on 3 of them and leave 3 of them std.
You need to think about what you want the wheel to do. Sounds really silly doesent it but alot of money can be spent on asthetics and each to their own no problem spending money to make it look nice if it suits your needs. Just bare in mind its usually the money spent hidden in mechanicals that keep it a vehicle ultra reliable.
My criteria for a wheel for trialer/comp motor would be:
Must be Steel (can be hammered back when it bends the rim back over itself whereas alloys crack deflate).
I want a narrowish rim, Personal choice.
Ideally the ability to gremove the hub without removing the wheel. (This is where rostyles fall down).
Light as possible less rotating mass/unsprung weight always good.
MUST be max allowed offset on the front and narrow/medium offset on the rear.
Personally I don't see the point in Mach 5 rims or the copys that go for a vast ammount of cash even s/h because they offer no greater advantage over std rims they used to be very light for comp safari racing but they used to fail aswell. Zu alloys for the same reason that i would cry if I hit a rock and damaged one.
I just sold a set of alloys which are Super Super light wolfrace rims. I was tempted to keep them as they are so very light however only 15 inch rims so no go for our club and i really don't think they would last ccving.
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
You may laugh but back when 750's were the tallest available a man I knew on new 700 xcl's ex RRC camel trophy tyres ran narrow rims on the rear and much wider offset on the fronts. This was on a brand new 90 It used to go placed others con taller better tyres could dream of and he put ot down to two different tracks. He was a damn fine driver aswell buit he said the two differsnt tracks seemed to help no end. Its swings and roundabouts i guess wide vs narrow again but I like the theory and being narrow might save a couple of silly hits on canes.
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
I have the same theory would never go for a set of Mach 5s on a comp vehicle, they're too heavy and the spacings between the spokes allows for sticks/ rocks to pass in and break callipers ect, they look good but that's about it.
I like wide offset front narrow rear as it will help no end with Turing circle and help stop me hitting canes on the rear which is my downfall, I can judge the front much better than the rear, I might try different offsets on the road and see how it handles but I'm not sure what good it will do for the centre diff, as the inside wheels will be burning at much different speeds and I cant see this being good for the diff.
jai_landrover
Well-Known Member
Not nearly enough difference at all to worry about I don't actually think it will make
Not much difference although I understand where your coming from ish. Front has wider arc rear has far less. I ran my 90 like that for years no trouble.
ill soon be running 4.7 rear diff and 4.75 front.
People run 2mm tread on the front and 12 mm tread on the rear that's more of an issue and its designed to take that than what were doing.
Not much difference although I understand where your coming from ish. Front has wider arc rear has far less. I ran my 90 like that for years no trouble.
ill soon be running 4.7 rear diff and 4.75 front.
People run 2mm tread on the front and 12 mm tread on the rear that's more of an issue and its designed to take that than what were doing.
