Station House

Well-Known Member

• Mar 3, 2011

• #41

Just covered my 90s floor and rear wheel arches with rubber matting ordered from an equestrian supplier, using B&Q aluminium 'L' profile on the edges.

Looks pretty good (IMO!), easy to clean and apart from the vertical sides where I stuck on with spray carpet adhesive, have left it removable so I can check for damp etc - I'll put some photos up over the weekend.

Where I removed the front sound deadening insualtion they were absolutely soaking wet, so removable makes sense!

Still getting quite a bit of condensation on the metal roof - found a couple of leaks which I sealed which has improved a bit, but nervous of sticking carpet tiles or camping mats up - although the idea appeals

Has anyone who's stuck mats etc. to their roof removed them after a while? Be interested to know whether all was well underneath?

 

Last edited: Mar 3, 2011

Karlos28

Well-Known Member

• Mar 3, 2011

• #42

Station House said:

J

Still getting quite a bit of condensation on the metal roof - found a couple of leaks which I sealed which has improved a bit, but nervous of sticking carpet tiles or camping mats up - although the idea appeals

Has anyone who's stuck mats etc. to their roof removed them after a while? Be interested to know whether all was well underneath?

Click to expand...

im in the same predicament.. im going with the camping mats but dont kno how to attach, with wood on top..

think im guna get some of that flashband stuff, or sticky roof flashing for on top of the arches, then put camping mat and ply wood on top.

although most of the noise comes from the ****ty td toaster up front!

 

The Mad Hat Man

Well-Known Member

LZIR Despatch Agent

• Mar 3, 2011

• #43

double sided carpet tape?

 

Karlos28

Well-Known Member

• Mar 3, 2011

• #44

its stuck down pretty permanently then tho.. oh well, seems the only way!

 

Station House

Well-Known Member

• Mar 3, 2011

• #45

You can get some pretty strong self adhesive velcro Karlos - might be worth a try on a small test section.

Used it in my TVR to hold the footwell mats to the glovebox (pretty heavy carpet) and it held fine

 

Karlos28

Well-Known Member

• Mar 4, 2011

• #46

Now that is a good plan! Il glue the mats to the ply, then velcro the mats to the arch! Perfect! Nice one SH!!

 

vasimone

Active Member

• Mar 11, 2017

• #47

Hi guys,

staying in Africa, I am actually looking for some insulation to avoid the heat from engine and from the sun to cook me up !

Dynamat is crazy expensive (and has to be cut to fit), moulded matting system is also super expensive for the small area it covers (http://www.paddockspares.com/moulded-matting-system-for-defender-with-lt77-gearbox.html).

NoiseKiller also is bloody expensive -about 650 quids for the whole car - but was recommended by Lindsay Porter:

-ceiling: http://www.nkgroup.co.uk/product/land-rover-roof-section-using-25mm-egg-box/
-whole car (bonnet included); http://www.nkgroup.co.uk/product/full-land-rover-soundproofing-kit/

• Bonnet Lid (NoiseKiller Vibrasorb)

• Interior Bulkhead (NoiseKiller Adhesive Sound Barrier)

• Bell Housing (NoiseKiller Adhesive Sound Barrier)

• Transmission Tunnel (NoiseKiller Adhesive Sound Barrier)

• Front Floors (NoiseKiller Sound Barrier)

• Seat Box Front and Sides (NoiseKiller Adhesive Sound Barrier)

• Under Seats (NoiseKiller Sound Barrier)

• Rear Wheel Arches (NoiseKiller Adhesive Sound Barrier)

• Rear Floor/Load Space (NoiseKiller Sound Barrier)

• Door Pads (NoiseKiller Barrier Mat)

Any experience with it with respect to insulation, noise reduction or issues that you experienced with it?

Any other product(s) you would recommend?

Cheers,

Simone

 

zeaphod

Well-Known Member

• Mar 11, 2017

• #48

Have a look here - much cheaper than dynamat, and works well: http://www.carinsulation.co.uk/product/20mm_self_adhesive_closed_cell_foam_sound_proofing

 

domderbyshire

Active Member

• Mar 11, 2017

• #49

That's a real love truck, methinks...