Can you elaborate on "chemical removal using an organic acid."
I have Jenolite, and a bottle of Phosphoric acid which a friend of mine said is the best treatment for rust.
Anyone got any thoughts on using it on disco chassis instead of purpose made stuff like Bilt Hamber products?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Both those are chemical treatments to remove rust.
Don't use a rust converter, as I've found that only to top surface gets treated, so the metal continues to rust below the converted layer.
I've used Bonda on lots of chassis over the year's, finding it better than other more expensive products, made for the classic car market.
Thanks but I am a bit confused. I thought Jenolite is a converter. The instructions say to paint it over rust and then paint over that, and it stops the rust in its tracks. More to the point, Bonda says it has rust inhibitors in it so can be applied straight to rust, wondering if I should use something else before painting with Bonda. I am about to knock a load of rust from underside of our farm quad, its old but runs well and I would really like to extend its life as it wont live much longer at this rate. Was gonna plaster it with Bonda underneath! Just wondering if I should use something else first
The more rust you can remove before treatment, the better - almost irrespective of "top coat" ... Proper Preparation Prevents P*ss Poor Performance .....
If you want to see a shiny painted surface on your chassis ( etc ), then I'd have to second what Nodge has said above ....
The BH products are excellent, and possibly best used for the inside of box sections ... where rust treatment is more of a challenge. A chassis will rust predominantly from the inside out anyway - so it can still be pretty, but next to paper thin
If you want to see a shiny painted surface on your chassis ( etc ), then I'd have to second what Nodge has said above ....
The BH products are excellent, and possibly best used for the inside of box sections ... where rust treatment is more of a challenge. A chassis will rust predominantly from the inside out anyway - so it can still be pretty, but next to paper thin
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Just to confuse. Jenolite make a rust remover and a rust converter.
The rust remover is call The Original Rust Remover, and comes as a thick liquid, a gel and in spray form too.
This works by neutralising the rust, and effectively devolves it, ready for painting.
Yes it will definitely slow down the rusting process, and potentially stop it too. I have painted it on to rusting corrugated iron roofing before now, and it did definitely slow the rust down, but after 10 years, the rust started to show through the Bonda. I didn’t do anything to the rust beforehand, and didn’t paint anything over the top either, so I don't think it does a bad job.
I've never had an issue of reoccurring rust, but I've always cleaned the metal with an abrasive process, then a chemical, before painting 2 coats of Bonda primer.
The more rust you can remove before treatment, the better - almost irrespective of "top coat" ... Proper Preparation Prevents P*ss Poor Performance .....
If you want to see a shiny painted surface on your chassis ( etc ), then I'd have to second what Nodge has said above ....
The BH products are excellent, and possibly best used for the inside of box sections ... where rust treatment is more of a challenge. A chassis will rust predominantly from the inside out anyway - so it can still be pretty, but next to paper thin
Thanks, not looking for pretty at all, just protected
perfect thanks, that's exactly what I will do then. As for the chemical, I guess phosphoric acid will do the job, or Jenolite converter, if that's what I have! All i know is mine is a black bottle, red cap, pink watery liquid inside
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Phosphoric acid yes. I'd not use a rust converter, simply based on poor experience of them.
I use Jenolite original gel, which is an acid based rust remover, and definitely works well.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Weirdest thing this. I just gave the inside of a new door pillar a second coat of Bonda before I weld it on and it reacted with the first coat…..same stuff.
You need to do the second coat before the first starts to cure, which is within 4 hours IIRC.
meego
Well-Known Member
Can anyone comment on how cold galv spray compares to Bonda, as a first and only coat over bare metal or fresh welds?
Also wondering if anyone can suggest the cheapest option for a topcoat metal paint, cheap as poss in bulk ideally, for farm machinery and other coarse metals which have been de-rusted and just need a layer of something (over Bonda). Hammerite is the first thing comes to mind, but pricey, so I am wondering if there's another little secret out there!
Also wondering if anyone can suggest the cheapest option for a topcoat metal paint, cheap as poss in bulk ideally, for farm machinery and other coarse metals which have been de-rusted and just need a layer of something (over Bonda). Hammerite is the first thing comes to mind, but pricey, so I am wondering if there's another little secret out there!
flat
Well-Known Member
yes, it’s ideal on this type of surface, will work fine and does seem to stop the rust
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Bed liner spray is really tough, and covers will too, although not exactly cheap.
Thanks, never heard of that. I was thinking of something I can buy a decent size pot of, and use spray gun/air compressor to spray it on, or even just brush as that would do fine. Maybe there is bed liner paint in that form. will have a look. certainly sounds tough which would be good
flat
Well-Known Member
1 litre did my whole Sankey chassis and the tub in and out two coats on both. It goes really far. Great stuff
I am really torn between that idea and using the Bilt Hamber Dynax products I have already bought to do my disco chassis! Totally stumped. This Bonda stuff isn't talked about for chassis's much, but having seen it on my trailer and a few other bits, I am seriously wondering if it's better than any other product to protect my pride and joy underneath (no, not my testicles)
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I am really torn between that idea and using the Bilt Hamber Dynax products I have already bought to do my disco chassis! Totally stumped. This Bonda stuff isn't talked about for chassis's much, but having seen it on my trailer and a few other bits, I am seriously wondering if it's better than any other product to protect my pride and joy underneath (no, not my testicles)
I've been using Bonda as part of my classic car restoration metal projection arsenal for about 3 decades, long before Bilt Hamber products were en-vogue.
There are many Triumph Sport Six vehicles going around, solid as the day I finish them, all with Bonda primer keeping future rust at bay.
It's my go to primer, without qualification.
