dag019

dag019

Well-Known Member
I am removing my axle to replace diff pan and suspension. While it is off I will wire wheel it and paint it.
I have red oxide and gloss black machine enamel left over from when I painted my wheels. As I already have this is paint will be effectively free. Is there any other options people would recommend which will not cost too much and be significantly better than machine enamel?
 
dag019 said:
I am removing my axle to replace diff pan and suspension. While it is off I will wire wheel it and paint it.
I have red oxide and gloss black machine enamel left over from when I painted my wheels. As I already have this is paint will be effectively free. Is there any other options people would recommend which will not cost too much and be significantly better than machine enamel?
Click to expand...
Red oxide and enamel for free is a good choice.
Prep is key, rip it down with the wire wheel, thorough wash off with a pressure washer.
Let it dry, prime, let it dry again, second coat of primer. Dry again, Topcoat.
Will last for many years.
 
Moron said:
axle paint
Click to expand...

What is axle paint? Googleing it just comes up with lots of threads on other forums similar to this asking what paint is best rather than a type of paint.

Turboman said:
Red oxide and enamel for free is a good choice.
Prep is key, rip it down with the wire wheel, thorough wash off with a pressure washer.
Let it dry, prime, let it dry again, second coat of primer. Dry again, Topcoat.
Click to expand...

That was my hope, Machine enamel is a very hard paint and used in fairly harsh environments, it has lasted well on the wheels on the 110 even through the winter sailt. Been on about 18months now and still looking good. Thanks to 10 years of land rover ownership I know all about prepping rusty steel, cup wheel on the angle grinder and a full face mask, gets it nicely back to bare metal. You just need to make sure everything within half a mile is covered other wise it gets a nice layer of rust dust!

I am planning on using dinitrol on the chassis (galv) over the summer when it is wammer so I can go over/ touchup the axle with it then if the enamel isnt lasting well.
 
dag019 said:
That was my hope, Machine enamel is a very hard paint and used in fairly harsh environments, it has lasted well on the wheels on the 110 even through the winter sailt. Been on about 18months now and still looking good. Thanks to 10 years of land rover ownership I know all about prepping rusty steel, cup wheel on the angle grinder and a full face mask, gets it nicely back to bare metal. You just need to make sure everything within half a mile is covered other wise it gets a nice layer of rust dust!

I am planning on using dinitrol on the chassis (galv) over the summer when it is wammer so I can go over/ touchup the axle with it then if the enamel isnt lasting well.
Click to expand...

The layer of rust dust is why the thorough pressure washing is such an important part of the prep., you don't want to paint the rust dust back on to the axle.

Pesonally, I never use Waxoyl or Dinitrol on the outside of anything, only on the inside. This is because I hate meeting the sticky stuff afterwards when I am worlink under the vehicle.
I find primer and paint is better, and not too hard to apply when you get the hang of the technique.
 
X1 on prep. My four year old rear crossmember replacement is showing serious surface rust. I haven’t taken it back to bare metal on exposed areas so the rust is rampant. I’ll be going back to bare metal with a needle gun and coats of red oxide as posted.
 
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