J

jasflow

New Member
Hi all,

I have a Cat C Defender 90 that when looking down the side is definitely ready for NASCAR going round a left handed track! You can feel a small ripple on each side of the chassis in-between front outrigger and front wheel.... and can see looking from rear to front down the side of the truck there is a definite but slight bow.

Wanted to gauge peoples opinion and if any one has any experience with straightening a defender chassis... or should I just bite the bullet and have a galvanised chassis fitted? Its a pretty clean 300tdi, rear cross member isn't too healthy so will probably also need changing at some point too, which helps encourage me to new chassis.
However if I do go down the chassis straightening route I take it it will be a lot cheaper, but is it effective? Is the chassis permanently weakened and does straightening a chassis always work? I can get the chassis bought, shipped and fitted for £2K.
Opinions and thoughts would be useful.

Thanks very much.
 
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It's very hard to get right, by the time you've messed about with it you might as well get a galv chassis and know its perfect
 
If the rear cross member is on its last legs, its a no brainer in my opinion :)

It is an expensive option but if the rest of the Defender is perfect and running gear is in good order, its well worth it in the long term. Galvanised chassis will add value to the landy too if you ever do sell it at some stage.
 
Go for a galv one. waxoyl and paint it and it'll live for ever! if the rear cross member is gone its going to be a lot easier, and last longer.
 
scottant said:
Go for a galv one. waxoyl and paint it and it'll live for ever! if the rear cross member is gone its going to be a lot easier, and last longer.
Click to expand...

why waxoyl a galvanized chassis, just paint the damn thing. No need for waxoyl on it
 
Why waxoyl anything??? Horrible stuff if you ever have to work on where its applied later on!

Twash it and paint it with a good quality satin black paint :) Once rebuilt then, cover the whole underneath of te Defender with dinotrol underseal or something similar.
 
DaveM-sport said:
Why waxoyl anything??? Horrible stuff if you ever have to work on where its applied later on!

Twash it and paint it with a good quality satin black paint :) Once rebuilt then, cover the whole underneath of te Defender with dinotrol underseal or something similar.
Click to expand...

Yep:D clean the damn thing good and ziebart it, hell alot better than waxoyl by a long shot and last for years to come and stops rust
 
Thor1950 said:
for structural steel as in buildings not car chassis there is a difference:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

"It gave the best anti-corrosion results with no visible signs of rusting along the panel or the score mark - tough enough for a stand alone chassis coating" - OnTest Vedict in Practical Classics March 2007
 
blue beasty said:
"It gave the best anti-corrosion results with no visible signs of rusting along the panel or the score mark - tough enough for a stand alone chassis coating" - OnTest Vedict in Practical Classics March 2007
Click to expand...

You taking over Dippys job???????????:p
 
Hi,

thanks for the replies all. Will order the new galvanised chassis then... paint it and probably waxoil it (or similar) too!
Will try to ensure that we trake pictures as we go and post up any funny peculiarities that happen along the way.
 
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