Another thing worth a check is the stub axle,even a slight bend here would be enough to put the wheel out.

A small let’s not forget the swivel housing to axle bolts which could work loose or fail, having said that yours look ok from the pic.

Right...I have an update. Got round to taking it apart today as I rented a digger yesterday and was busy digging.

Got stuck as I don't have a 53mm tool for the hub nut and it hasn't arrived yet. Anyway, as soon as I took off the wheel and lifted the vehicle I was getting a leak from the swivel seal. After further undoing I was getting quite a lot of shaking...especially after taking off the drive flange (I think it dampens the shake when it's still bolted on). Anyway, there is definitely 1-2mm play on the bottom swivel bearing/pin. This explains the angled wheel and most likely also the shaking!

I love working on my defender! Otherwise I'm stuck in the office forever staring at computer screens...manual work is brilliant...I love it. I would urge anybody who is hesitant whether to work on their own car to try it...a few years ago I hardly knew what a spanner was! This forum is absolutely brilliant! And youtube is a great tool.

I specifically asked my mechanic to check the hubs as I could see the wheel was angled...obviously he didn't bother! The satisfaction of fault finding and fixing stuff is brilliant!

Anyway, is there anything else that I should replace apart from the swivel bearing? Obviously all the seals, but what about the swivel housing? I'm tempted to buy a new housing only because this side of the car received a knock and it may be a tiny bit bent. What are your thoughts? The drive flange is in good nick so hopefully the rest of the drive train is fine as well. I'll do further investigating once I take the hub nut off.

If the housing is pitted from corrosion in the area swept by the seal it's worth changing. Otherwise leave it - it would have to be a heck of a bang to damage it, it's about 8mm thick at the neck. If you're going to take it off the axle to do the big seal then a set of new bolts makes the job a little more pleasant if the old ones are rusted.

The surface looks ok upon first inspection. I'll check properly once it's off.

Should have said.. the reason to change is that the pitting won't do your new seal ring any good, and they help leaks. Didn't notice how old your car is, but use the one shot grease to fill the housing, not oil as in the olden days.

Changing the swivel bearings top and bottom makes a big difference to the steering feel and handling, even if they're not obviously loose. Mine improved a great deal after I'd done this, especially where steering feel and accuracy at speed was concerned. So it's well worth doing.

mikerajjers said:

Cheers for your replies! I was going to take it apart today but had a ****e day at work and I'm just not in the mood. Your comments fill me with confidence that its just the bearing...fingers crossed. If there were to be some bending I imagine an impact would bend the swivel housing before the axle.

I will definitely keep you informed how I get on!

Click to expand...

Also, if the axle was bent, the damage to create that sort of camber would be an upturned end of the axle, created by a serious, really serious, upward force, i.e. like the vehicle being dropped from a height onto that wheel because a hard enough force to bend the axle from a forward direction would also have put a backward bend on the axle which would mean your wheel would be sitting further back and steering would be screwed up and all sorts.

You never know, but I am sure you need bearings. I would possibly think about a full strip down and reseal with new bearings - if the housing is OK then leave it but clean it all up and rebuild.

When you reasemble the hub smear some grease on the shaft splines before you fit the drive flange,they look a bit dry and rusty.
If the flange is a bit loose on the shaft in the rotary sense then replace.The flange tends to wear more than the shaft.

mikerajjers said:

Right...I have an update. Got round to taking it apart today as I rented a digger yesterday and was busy digging.

Got stuck as I don't have a 53mm tool for the hub nut and it hasn't arrived yet. Anyway, as soon as I took off the wheel and lifted the vehicle I was getting a leak from the swivel seal. After further undoing I was getting quite a lot of shaking...especially after taking off the drive flange (I think it dampens the shake when it's still bolted on). Anyway, there is definitely 1-2mm play on the bottom swivel bearing/pin. This explains the angled wheel and most likely also the shaking!]

Click to expand...

Probably a bit too late and may have been a typo but it is 52 not 53mm.

Right...I've done a strip down and it was definitely the bottom bearing of the swivel housing. There was some very obvious play. Anyway, the swivel is pitted so I'll need to get that as well.

I've checked the other components and the CV joint seems fine, flange is ok, stub axle also looks ok. The wheel bearings also look ok, but at 20 pounds for a set of timken bearings I've decided to replace them.

There are some part numbers I haven't been able to identify...if anyone can help that would be great (I've had a look on albrit.de)
1.the seal between the axle casing and the swivel. I have some residue in the axle casing so it was obviously leaking into there as well.
2. hub lock nut - the newer type

I hope I haven't forgotten anything.

Here are some pics

two more pics

Residue in axle will be remains of the diff oil, Dont forget to refill your diff when you get everything back together, as well as the one shot grease for swivel.