Hi all,
Purchased a new Bearmach front propshaft....one thing I have noticed is that there isn't a single balance weight on it anywhere!

Is this normal, can they guarantee perfect symmetry in todays manufacturing processes on propshafts?!

I can't answer that, but I would be very suspicious. Maybe a call to the supplier or Bearmach themselves to verify.
That would be a very expensive mistake otherwise.
Mike

Skinny Mike said:

I can't answer that, but I would be very suspicious. Maybe a call to the supplier or Bearmach themselves to verify.
That would be a very expensive mistake otherwise.
Mike

Click to expand...

Will do Mike, I have emailed island-4x4 to ask if they can check another one in there stock for a balance weight.

Not all propshafts need a balance weight. It just depends on the individual shaft in question. The last Bearmach propshaft I bought (for a D3) was actually made by GKN, so quality is assured.

I'm curious as to why you need a propshaft anyway? They don't normally go wrong, generally outlasting the vehicle.

And it don't look like you've got the rubber boot over the flexible joint..IRD end

Nd worstest of all it says brit on it. Could be britpart

Looks like a reconditioned shaft to me. I'm not a fan of painted coatings covering all the different assembly components like the UJ caps.
Be interesting to see what feedback comes from the supplier.

I've just been googling to find out more about this Briturk - very little to be found. I found a reference to a Briturk Defender brake vacumm pump (supplied by Bearmach), so I wouldn't mind there's a lot of their parts in use. Incidentally, it went tits up after 6 months! ...

https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/defender-vacumm-brake-pump-briturk.186955/

It sounds like there is an outfit in Turkey building LR cars/parts (?) under license and these may be them or related to them. Sort of ties in with their name Also ties in with this link I found selling Briturk winches...

http://www.gayeotomotiv.com/vinc.php

Maybe if I was in Turkey, google might find more info.

all, thanks for replies. It is a very well manufactured part by the looks of it - deffo new and not a refurb. The front spider joint gaitor is present, the pics show the shaft in the retracted position, if I pull it out the gaitor is exposed

Its fitted now and no problems with vibration connected to vcu only, when I connect rear prop I get vibrations but that's a different problem im busy trying to resolve.

I replaced the front shaft for a couple of reasons, I had a vibration problem after fitting new VCU with decent bearings (vibration through my seat, not steering wheel) and it was indicated that my spider joint may have been worn on front shaft.
I re-greased the joint and it looked fine, I also fitted a bearmach UJ to the rear of the front prop (this didn't cure vibration)

After checking again, the UJ had about 1mm lateral play in new UJ, which is very strange as it was a decent quality part and ive changed dozens of them before - I could only assume that the yoke/fork of the shaft was enlarged, this lead me to getting a new shaft just to dismiss the 2 problems that it possibly had....long story short - vibrations still there at 55mph.

So, no vibration with rear prop removed
rear prop ujs in good condition, balance weight is present on the prop
new vcu with genuine GKN bearings fitted
rear diff is nice and tight, no leaks, pinion not loose
rear shafts seem tight enough with no play in cv
IRD output shaft is tight
front shafts have no noticeable play in cvs (all boots good)
changed all 4 tyres just to be sure with new, no chance
changed all 3 diff brackets, no change.

As both props are balanced, it is possible they're balanced to each other. So as you've fitted a new front, the rear is now slightly out.
Doubful I know, a balanced prop is balanced to itself.
So either the rear prop has become unbalanced somehow, or part of the rear diff setup is wonky.
Mike

Mine does not have weights and its smooth.
Just make sure when its bolted in place and you look down the whole fitting from gearbox to the diff its parallel the center part can be out of lign a smidge and cause vibration . more noticeable with acceleration

I refurbed a VCU once and after refitting I had a terrible vibration. I was concerned I'd damaged the VCU or upset the balance when welding it back together but rotating the damper on the VCU sorted the problem. I'd noticed the damper wasn't perfectly centred before I took it off so it wasn't a surprise when I had to rotate it to sort the problem.
This probably isn't your problem but might be worth a go, or even remove it altogether.