Disco1BFG said:
Nice to see some else on my soapbox, or one of them!! :)

Sons BM doesn't have a dipstick - the 'puter tells you how much oil is in the engine - but not the gearbox, which is "sealed for life" :rolleyes: :mad::mad:
Click to expand...

Stanleysteamer said:
"for the life of the gearbox" it would appear, or the life of the seal.
Which will be the same thing.
Stinks.:mad:
Click to expand...

not forgetting the sealed for life built in filter , lmao
 
Disco1BFG said:
Rather than spend any money at a "garage", spend some money on a battery tester ( my choice is the TopDon BT50 - on the bay and the zone for £50 ish ), and some proper diagnostics so you know what is going on, and/or can post the codes and data on here so we can either laugh, or cry at the issue with you..:eek: :confused: :D ..

@gstuart is the man to ask about diagnostics .. so I've tagged him!!:):):)
Click to expand...
Hi, and thanks for your reply / advice. I've read a bit more on the issue and apparently 12.4v is not unusual with the Disco 4 with all the internal monitoring going on. As a replacement is £200 + the BMS re-set, now I am not certain the battery has "had it" so have ordered the Topdon BT200 (£41) to thoroughly test the battery etc. Checked the charge voltage (with decent multimeter) no load & full load 14.9V so no issue with the alternator. Will see what the tester show's when it arrives.
Thanks again. Mick
 
micknkazzyfonce said:
Hi, and thanks for your reply / advice. I've read a bit more on the issue and apparently 12.4v is not unusual with the Disco 4 with all the internal monitoring going on. As a replacement is £200 + the BMS re-set, now I am not certain the battery has "had it" so have ordered the Topdon BT200 (£41) to thoroughly test the battery etc. Checked the charge voltage (with decent multimeter) no load & full load 14.9V so no issue with the alternator. Will see what the tester show's when it arrives.
Thanks again. Mick
Click to expand...

Hi again Disco1BFG, hope you can help. I have a good condition 12v wet cell battery, I was considering connecting it to the starter battery clamps then removing the clamps from the starter battery terminals leaving the flooded battery connected and "maintaining the settings" whilst I re-charge the starter battery. My main question is, the starter battery is an AGM; (not stop & start) as the car will simply have a12v supply connected during the charging period, (away from the car) and not running anything; would the BMS be active and somehow identify the change from AGM to wet cells, and cause a problem. My "smart" charger is AGM compatible, with de-sulfation capability if detected, so the wet cell battery could be connected for 24hr.
This idea would only be actioned, if the battery tester (when it arrives) indicates its ok.
Really appreciate any thoughts, good or bad, these forums are such a fountain of experience shared.
Regards. Mick
 
Last edited:
micknkazzyfonce said:
Hi again Disco1BFG, hope you can help. I have a good condition 12v wet cell battery, I was considering connecting it to the starter battery clamps then removing the clamps from the starter battery terminals leaving the flooded battery connected and "maintaining the settings" whilst I re-charge the starter battery. My main question is, the starter battery is an AGM; (not stop & start) as the car will simply have a12v supply connected during the charging period, (away from the car) and not running anything; would the BMS be active and somehow identify the change from AGM to wet cells, and cause a problem. My "smart" charger is AGM compatible, with de-sulfation capability if detected, so the wet cell battery could be connected for 24hr.
This idea would only be actioned, if the battery tester (when it arrives) indicates its ok.
Really appreciate any thoughts, good or bad, these forums are such a fountain of experience shared.
Regards. Mick
Click to expand...

I have no idea if the BMS will tolerate that, or if it will throw a hissy fit.. o_O

I would have thought that it would be perfectly reasonable to design a system that allows the vehicle to be powered down, for safety or repair purposes, :) and then re-powered using the same battery without the BMS going apesh*t :eek:, but, given this is a LR, then ...:confused:

@gstuart or @Nodge68 may know ;)
 
Must confess not 100% , know ur not going to to but indeed ensure the engine isn’t started

indeed Nodge will know more and be able to advise better than myself as would rather say instead of giving wrong information

Personally would reset the BMS after refitting the AGM , also myself have a CTEK charger which many of us use on the D3/4 seeing u can leave the battery connected to the vehicle whilst charging the main battery , also having the facility to recharge ur battery via the 12s towing socket , another good thing with the CTEK is allowing the charger to remain connected for ages as it will simply drop down to trickle charging , on mine also has a 12 Vdc supply facility , which can be used when a diagnostic reader is plugged in and software updates as the last thing u want is for the battery to die on ur whilst doing updates , as if the battery fails ur motor will ultimately then be a brick on ur driveway

hope that helps
 
This is my thinking, sometimes its good:eek:.

No reason for battery not to be charged on vehicle.
No reason for extra battery if you do take it off to charge, no codes involved for radio etc etc? Maybe lock to lock on the steering, only thing we had to do on the L322 not knowing the D4.
The BMS only needs resetting for new battery.

J
 
Disco1BFG said:
I have no idea if the BMS will tolerate that, or if it will throw a hissy fit.. o_O

I would have thought that it would be perfectly reasonable to design a system that allows the vehicle to be powered down, for safety or repair purposes, :) and then re-powered using the same battery without the BMS going apesh*t :eek:, but, given this is a LR, then ...:confused:

@gstuart or @Nodge68 may know ;)
Click to expand...

Disco1. Thanks for your & others advice. The TOPDON was the business, it showed REPLACE on the 1st test, I removed the cables from the battery after bridging them with 12v battery but noticed the neg battery pole was a "tiny" bit loose. Connected the smart charger and all seemed fine, it went through the steps charging etc to the end "maintain". After letting it Rest for an hour tested again but it still read Replace, max 12.1v & the resistance had gone up from 7.8 to 9.9.
So, new battery tomorrow & the reset. Without the advice to buy the tester I may have thought all was ok!.
Its been very educational & gives me the answer as well as piece of mind.
Thanks again. Mick
 
micknkazzyfonce said:
Without the advice to buy the tester I may have thought all was ok!.
Click to expand...

HTH :) - I've found a battery tested incredibly useful, for "home" and work - removes all doubt - Plus, in the unlikely event you get a duff "new" ( AKA NeverEverWorked :D ) one, a photo of the screen sent to the seller convinces them of same, and Bob is your Mother's brother again.. ;) .. :)

The TopDon is also good in that it can test the charging system, (even ripple voltage), and the starting system..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

jim_m_kidd
Exploding Battery
Replies
12
Views
2K
trax
trax