E

Ebbingeii

Member
Hi guys, my 1974 series III isn't holding it's charge. Went to start her the other day and nothing. Used jump leads and it started right away. Went for a long drive to charge up and then left for a few days, went to start her this morn and dead! never happened before, used to leave for days/weeks at a time and always started first turn. did notice fan/drive belt is quite loose, would this stop the battery charging? I haven't heard any whining for the bonnet at all though!

Any help please.

Also is it easy to put a new belt on and tension it myself?

Thank you in advance.
 
If the belt was so loose it wasn't turning the alternator then it wouldn't charge the battery but this is unlikely. To tension the belt slacken off the bolt at base of the alternator and loosen the bolt on the slide on the side and simply move it back to tighten the belt then tighten bolts. Should have quarter inch of play. Test alternator before buying battery, plenty of threads with advice on how to do it. Does charge light come on with the ignition?
 
Batteries don't last forever - especially if they are allowed to go completely flat. The symptom is losing charge. But a new one!
 
Did notice the cable coming from the battery negative to earth is covered in oil! when I twist the cable oil seeps out! does this matter, would this bugger up the earthing?
 
Yes it would, oil is an insulator! Try cleaning it up and a bit of battery grease or Vaseline afterwards if you're tight like me
 
No oil on electrics should be fine, wires covered in insulating materials are fine!

It is probably your battery but before you fork out for a new one do some simple tests. Batteries get killed by being left uncharged for any length of time. If your charging circuits aren't working well you will kill a new battery too...

Does your charge light (red on right bottom) come on with ignition on and engine off. Does it go off completely with engine running above a fast idle. Does it come back on with full beams and heater switched on?

If you have a multimeter measure the voltage across the battery with engine stopped. Then with engine idling. The with engine at fast idle (jame something in the throttle) after running at fast idle for a few minutes. Then go for a drive. Measure voltage across battery again.

Check wiring from alternator to solenoid - I replaced my alternator before realising that some muppet had put on a crimp connector on one end....but not crimped it!

Our local motor factor (Andrew Page) did me a 95Ah Bosch battery with 5 year guarantee for a reasonable price can't remeber how much but a lot cheaper than the cheapo things in Halfords! I think it was around £60+VAT

I got a replacement alternator for £60ish from Woods auto-electricals in Huddersfield. I've still got the old one which as far as I know was actually fine...The new one is not quite a nice as the old one but has a slightly higher capacity IIRC.

Dom
 
Charge light comes on when ignition on and engine off. Goes out when driving alone, but comes on when I stop at a junction. Doesn't come on when lights or heater are on.

I did put the battery on a charger all night, over 12 hours, and have just connected it back up and nothing. The charge light comes on and as soon as I turn the key the light goes out and there is a click, but that's it!
 
Have you not got a mate who can put his battery on/jump start your landy? Then you'll know if its battery or not. It aint rocket science.
 
If its been charging for 12 hours (and your charger works!) then battery is knackered. If charge light is going out on idle and if you tend to leave the landy idling then its worth knocking the idle speed up a little. It might use a little more petrol but it would have to use a lot more to add up to the price of a battery!

When you've got a new battery it should come fully charged. Double check your circuit, especially in the dark check that there is NO glow from the charge light even after prolonged running on lights as that will mean you're parking up with a half dead battery which will not last long! Get a multimeter when you get a new battery - they only cost a few quid and are worth having with a landy!

D
 
Ebbingeii said:
Did notice the cable coming from the battery negative to earth is covered in oil! when I twist the cable oil seeps out! does this matter, would this bugger up the earthing?
Click to expand...

I put grease on electrical contacts routinely. Grease keeps water out and stops corrosion, and there is always enough metal on metal contact to keep the circuit open.
 
I had similar. Changed the battery. Went flat again. Changes the alternates it went flat again turned out it was a dash bulb staying on tht had slipped out the holder so I couldn't see it.
 
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