One with a remote wireless display on the dash would be good
I have not checked but I think that the controller relies on the potential difference between the source (solar panel or car) and the battery to be charged. So if the battery attached to the controller is down at 12.2 volts for example and the car battery at switch off is 12.8 or more, it may continue to charge. Easy enough to check.@Datatek re the continued charging, that's why I'm thinking if the controller only charges over around 13v input it would isolate the 2 batteries and stop the second battery pulling power until the engine is running and the alternator is up to speed. Otherwise like you say an isolation relay.
Any particular reason for you recommending that controller only I have 2 of the ones I posted as I like the voltage display?
Which would use more power.One with a remote wireless display on the dash would be good
Which would use more power.
Which would use more power.
That sounds good for your application.Agreed but if it's running off a 900amp battery it should be neglidgable.
The spec from the one I have looks like trigger voltages are adjustable
12V voltage system (if it is a 24V voltage system, data x2):
Float charge: 13.7V (default, adjustable)
Discharge stop:10.7V (default, adjustable)
Discharge reconnect:12.6V (default, adjustable)
That sounds good for your application.
Discharge stop:10.7V (default, adjustable) I would set that to 12 volts if you do not want to knacker the battery PDQ
Is a nice touch
Nevermind
elfreetutu will get it
Nice jobTook longer than expected but dual battery conversion now complete'ish
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3D printed a new housing so I could move the light and use the existing cut out.
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