timtheenchanteruk

Well-Known Member
OK, poss a quick Q, poss not.

What do you have em fitted for?
Mine inline with the battery -ve to isolate the battery for maintenance and antitheft.
Another thread brought up for them to kill the engine, which mine does not...

obviously with it off, you cant start the engine, BUT once the engine is running, you can remove the key (and isolate the battery) and the engine will stay running, obviously powered by the alternator (I know its not a good idea, but the wifes handbag managed to switch it off:rolleyes: only noticed cos volts jumped up a bit :) ).

or is a kill switch different to an isolator
 
but, in the case of a defender anyway, it would still run once started, the alternator connects with the rest of the 12V systems at the alternator.
so wouldn't actually "kill" it if running, which if it were a comp motor would be required wouldnt it??
 
Yeah it won't stop anyone starting it if they really want to. It'll slow them down a bit but that's about all
 
Battery isolator is exactly that it isolates the battery, a kill swith isolates the battery it will also kill the engine if wired correctly as per race car cars ect
 
OK, poss a quick Q, poss not.

What do you have em fitted for?
Mine inline with the battery -ve to isolate the battery for maintenance and antitheft.
Another thread brought up for them to kill the engine, which mine does not...

obviously with it off, you cant start the engine, BUT once the engine is running, you can remove the key (and isolate the battery) and the engine will stay running, obviously powered by the alternator (I know its not a good idea, but the wifes handbag managed to switch it off:rolleyes: only noticed cos volts jumped up a bit :) ).

or is a kill switch different to an isolator

Never thought of it as a security measure, I switch it off at night, but leave the plastic key in the socket.
I have it simply for fire prevention, twenty year plus old wiring can easily short to something, and there is a lot of energy in the battery.
A few old tractors have spontaneously combusted for this reason, they tend to have plenty of oil everywhere, and sometimes dry vegetation/chaff too :eek:, so they really go up if there is a small electrical fire.
 
A kill switch on a diesel motor can be wired to kill the power to the fuel pump stop solenoid

My battery isolator on my petrol cut all power from the battery and kills the engine
It also stops and drain when the vehicle is stood up
 
I have two battery isolators, one for each parallel circuit and a kill switch to the fuel solenoid.

Never really seen the battery isolators as a anti theft device, just to stop the whole thing burning down and to limit the drain (which i still can't seem to get to the bottom of)

D
 
stop parasitic loads draining it when left for a while. (clock, radio, etc)
 
if you get the one with the extra terminals on the bottom it can take out the alt and the fuel
misc_sparco_battery_cutoff_kill_switch_omp_race_racing_01335_1.jpg
 
I have one only because I can go weeks without using the car and I want it to start next time I need to use it.

Is say "have". It doesn't like the new battery on the Disco, keeps falling off, so I'm reduced to spannering to hook the electrics up before I take the car out :(
 
On a kill switch there are two extra sets of contacts, one set that closes when the switch is turned on which you use to power either the coil on a petrol or the fuel cut off solenoid on a diesel. The other set closes when the switch is turned off and runs the alt output to earth through a 3 ohm resistor to stop any voltage spikes.
 

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