timtheenchanteruk
Well-Known Member
Front of the battery box is a common place i believe.
doesn't want to be too far form the battery, otherwise you have to route some pretty hefty cables to it.
Im thinking of putting mine on the front of the battery box, from the inside, so it cant be ripped off to bypass it, and then secure the lid of the battery box with a padlock or summat.
doesn't want to be too far form the battery, otherwise you have to route some pretty hefty cables to it.
Im thinking of putting mine on the front of the battery box, from the inside, so it cant be ripped off to bypass it, and then secure the lid of the battery box with a padlock or summat.
was thinking of there but was worryed the key would catch backs of legs,thanks tim
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Take the key out when not in use
chriswall0
New Member
i was planning on hiding mine, under the middle seat or something, thats if your using it for security
timtheenchanteruk
Well-Known Member
er whats the ampage to need extra cable
as thick as what's already there...
RobertOHare
New Member
i have seen people locate them in a front wing locker for the (security side) of it
Mine is fitted on the front of the seatbox up against the tunnel, easy to reach from the drivers seat and in 14-years it has never been kicked or damaged by the passenger.
Don't forget to fit the FIA one with engine cut-out & ballast resistance for alternator protection, means that in an emergency you can kill the engine & isolate the battery in one easy action. The really cheap ones isolate the battery only and while not killing the engine will damage the alternator.
Been using these for over 25-years on my LR's (both competition & normal) and never had one fail on me.
Don't forget to fit the FIA one with engine cut-out & ballast resistance for alternator protection, means that in an emergency you can kill the engine & isolate the battery in one easy action. The really cheap ones isolate the battery only and while not killing the engine will damage the alternator.
Been using these for over 25-years on my LR's (both competition & normal) and never had one fail on me.
kes86
Active Member
Having just wired up my winch using a isolator switch, I fitted it to the bulkhead to an existing oval hole next to the fusebox. This way the wires are not in the cab and the switch is in easy reach.
If fitted to the passenger side, it could be cut into the battery feed to the starter motor.
Personally I would fit a switch in the battery box on the earth cable for security, or working on the electrics.
If fitted to the passenger side, it could be cut into the battery feed to the starter motor.
Personally I would fit a switch in the battery box on the earth cable for security, or working on the electrics.
deaftonewonder
New Member
iv fitted mine on the battery box, its a marine type made by osculati with a cover for the terminals on the rear which could -if you wanted- be filled with resin to waterpoof it, though this would mean you better be happy with the cable setup.
Got the idea from the wolf slave charging socket which is waterproofed in the same way using a piece of drain pipe! (more for the hardcore off roader though)
its a bit more HD than the durite type i bought first, which i thought just looked / felt too weak for the area where it was going to be mounted.
im considering looking for a guard of some sort as the Mrs has kicked it before and managed to turn it off for a few mins....... :doh::doh:
you can even fit a low amp fused link across the terminals so your clock/radio/alarm light will still work /look normal but blow if a thief tries to start without the isolator key.
also just an idea but i have seen people fit these and rivet the battery box lid on for extra security
Got the idea from the wolf slave charging socket which is waterproofed in the same way using a piece of drain pipe! (more for the hardcore off roader though)
its a bit more HD than the durite type i bought first, which i thought just looked / felt too weak for the area where it was going to be mounted.
im considering looking for a guard of some sort as the Mrs has kicked it before and managed to turn it off for a few mins....... :doh::doh:
you can even fit a low amp fused link across the terminals so your clock/radio/alarm light will still work /look normal but blow if a thief tries to start without the isolator key.
also just an idea but i have seen people fit these and rivet the battery box lid on for extra security
