P38Seb · Wednesday at 21:00

kermit_rr said:
With the engine running, use a multimeter to measure the volts between the +ve on the back of the alternator and the alternator body to rule out any bad connections or cables

Will do, a good friend with the diag software has been around LR products for decades so he’s got a wealth of general Lr knowledge to tap in to.

P38Seb · 2024-07-20T18:53:27+0100

Update on this.

Tested on a load tester, only showing 732A out of what should been 1000A, so weak there! Battery was sat at 12.5v turned off and with the engine running it was at 13.7v.

Looks like the culprit is just the battery.

Datatek · 2024-07-20T19:32:06+0100

P38Seb said:
Update on this.

Tested on a load tester, only showing 732A out of what should been 1000A, so weak there! Battery was sat at 12.5v turned off and with the engine running it was at 13.7v.

Looks like the culprit is just the battery.

13.7 volts is not enough to charge a lead calcium battery which is likely why the battery is failing. The regulator in the alternator needs changing for one with a 14.8 volt set point.

P38Seb · 2024-07-20T19:37:32+0100

Datatek said:
13.7 volts is not enough to charge a lead calcium battery which is likely why the battery is failing. The regulator in the alternator needs changing for one with a 14.8 volt set point.

There’s already one on order.

P38Seb

Active Member

P38Seb

Active Member

Datatek

Well-Known Member

P38Seb

Active Member

Similar threads