I have a 4.6 Vogue 2000(Y) and my battery which has been tested as fine is draining 5 amps! Leading to either the engine being immobilised or a flat battery more and more frequently especially when it's very cold. For some time now the indicator lights are flashing intermittently when the car is parked but no alarm is sounding. The car will only start using a strong jump pack or jump leads. I was told I could have a faulty becm by one garage who bypassed it to fix a heater problem. My current garage thinks it COULD be a faulty becm but has not investigated it. I have been stuck in a notorious area for bad mobile signal and from the threads I have read am veering towards the RF receiver being at fault. Would this sound possible? I have a hands free parrot fitted and reversing indicators also. Not sure if these could cause a problem? I keep getting told to get rid if it but love that beast and drives like a dream...when it starts!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
RF receiver is the most common cause. Next most common problem is wet carpet in the drivers footwell which will affect the BECM and finally, check the underbonnet fuse box for sign/smells of burning. Not sure what the garage means by "bypassed the BECM to fix a heater problem" Sounds like bull****.
dogsbody
Very senior member
Indicators coming on intermittently certainly sounds like BECM. Have you checked for damp carpets, corrosion in BECM plugs?
Bypassing the BECM to fix a heater fault is certainly a new one on me and I'll be intrigued to hear others comments on this.
I doubt that the RF receiver could take 5 amp without melting but I suppose if your door locks were actuated the motors could but I doubt this would last before they burnt out.
With that much drain I'd start at the alternator. Your other faults COULD be low voltage.
You might want to add a location to your details. There might be someone close who could help.
Bypassing the BECM to fix a heater fault is certainly a new one on me and I'll be intrigued to hear others comments on this.
I doubt that the RF receiver could take 5 amp without melting but I suppose if your door locks were actuated the motors could but I doubt this would last before they burnt out.
With that much drain I'd start at the alternator. Your other faults COULD be low voltage.
You might want to add a location to your details. There might be someone close who could help.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
It's not the RF receiver that takes the 5 amps but the BECM etc that fail to sleep.
You may well be right about the alternator, I forgot to add that.
I've had issues with the EAS off and in and replaced the compressor about 6 months ago and noticed a couple of the fuses under the bonnet on the drivers side at the front of the box were extremely hot and looked as if they may have burnt? The same garage was meant to have changed the fuses but I can't swear that this has been done.
My LR garage says he THINKS it COULD be a faulty becm but would have to investigate this which would cost a lot in labour. I have arranged for an auto electrician to come and check to see if he can trace down the drain source and was going to mention the RF receiver and fuse box as you have suggested
Very recently the error 'traction overheat' has been coming up which I have read can happen in some of the P38 blogs. You see, not as blonde as I look! Also the EAS fault has been coming up more frequently and I keep having to go to my LR garage to have him clear the faults on the diagnostics machine. Not sure if this is relevant ?
Is there an easy way that I could somehow check the becm or RF receiver Prior to the auto mechanic coming Monday just to rule it out ?
My LR garage says he THINKS it COULD be a faulty becm but would have to investigate this which would cost a lot in labour. I have arranged for an auto electrician to come and check to see if he can trace down the drain source and was going to mention the RF receiver and fuse box as you have suggested
Very recently the error 'traction overheat' has been coming up which I have read can happen in some of the P38 blogs. You see, not as blonde as I look! Also the EAS fault has been coming up more frequently and I keep having to go to my LR garage to have him clear the faults on the diagnostics machine. Not sure if this is relevant ?
Is there an easy way that I could somehow check the becm or RF receiver Prior to the auto mechanic coming Monday just to rule it out ?
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As suggested, time to check the fuse box carefully....
Even though you have changed the compressor 6 months ago, if there is a leak in the system via an airbag or split pipe (rear pipes are common) your new compressor will get worn out rather rapidly!
But would the leaky compressor be the cause of the battery drain and indicator lights flashing when the engine is off (which has been going on for years but only recently causing the engine immobilisation.....oops! May have just answered my own question?)? Since having the compressor changed (I think?) the ABS light comes up every time I brake and then does off
Think you are confusing ABS with EAS not the same animals. If ABS lamp comes on every time you brake, think you need to be looking at the accumulator on the ABS pump.
No, If you are getting battery drain it will be down to RF receiver or a fault on the alternator more than likely or just a knackered battery.
dogsbody
Very senior member
Reading back through this thread I think that you have four problems;
one - You have an electrical issue that is causing a drain and flattening your battery.
two - you have a suspension issue as you shouldn't need your system re-set at all, never mind frequently
three - You have a brake issue that might be as simple as a failing accumulator or could be more serious.
four - the most important - you have a garage that either does not understand your Range Rover or is taking you for a ride. Allowing you to keep returning to get your suspension re-set without investigating or repairing the underlining fault is hardly the action of a decent garage. Never mind telling you that they've bypassed the BECM to cure a heater fault.
Can I suggest that you investigate finding a Range Rover specialist who can deal with all of your issues, which might be realtively cheap repairs, as long as they are done before they develop into larger, more expensive ones.
one - You have an electrical issue that is causing a drain and flattening your battery.
two - you have a suspension issue as you shouldn't need your system re-set at all, never mind frequently
three - You have a brake issue that might be as simple as a failing accumulator or could be more serious.
four - the most important - you have a garage that either does not understand your Range Rover or is taking you for a ride. Allowing you to keep returning to get your suspension re-set without investigating or repairing the underlining fault is hardly the action of a decent garage. Never mind telling you that they've bypassed the BECM to cure a heater fault.
Can I suggest that you investigate finding a Range Rover specialist who can deal with all of your issues, which might be realtively cheap repairs, as long as they are done before they develop into larger, more expensive ones.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
The little black relay for the ABS pump is known to fail and hot fuses suggest a burnt fuse box. I very much doubt you have a BECM problem.
This is good news as obviously the becm is the most expensive to replace. I am hoping it is the RF receiver from the blogs I have read on here. My LR garage in North London is NOT the garage which said they bypassed the becm to fix my heater and replaced the compressor. That garage was in Devon. As for the EAS fault reoccurring my London garage says the valve gets stuck? On the compressor causing the fault? I am going to print these suggestions for my auto electrician to check on Monday ie RF receiver, fuse box, alternator (even though the AA patrols say its not the problem as not faulty) thank you very much
There is no valve on the compressor as such...there is a little 'Reed' valve on the head of the cylinder that is just a metal strip that opens and closes under the movement of the piston....it is not unknown for the seal to perish under the Reed.
There is a Valve in the valve block that opens to allow the Compressed air into the system from the pump...this is called the inlet valve, there is also a Diaphram valve that controls the air to/from the tank.
Often times the ECU reports a sticking valve when it is in fact a leak either in the bag or lack of air pressure from the compressor...the reason it flags up a stuck valve is the ECU thinks that when it commands the valve to open there should be a height change of some description, if this doesn't happen within in X time, the ECU reports that the valve must be stuck as there has been no change in height!
Datatek
Well-Known Member
As above, the valves do not stick, it's a sign of a leak or a duff height sensor.
Your garage clearly have no idea what they are doing apart from emptying your wallet.
Unfortunately this is a different garage to the rip off one in Devon where I asked them to 'look at' the heater as it doesn't get very warm but clearly stated I didn't want to spend anymore than £200 on fixing it as wasn't vital only to be hit with a bill for £700 for a new heater matrix and all the hours the boss had to spend on a Saturday 'bypassing the becm which is faulty'. The London garage hasn't been too bad as always clears the faults on the LR diagnostics machine for free. However, I am not happy that he doesnt seem interested in trying to find the cause of the battery drain and frequent engine immobilisation issue. The excuse being it would cost £2-300 to rule out everything to find the issue and he thinks it is 'probably' the becm which would cost me £1000 and he thinks its nit worth spending that on my lovely beast. Time to find a new garage me thinks. You are right! If anyone knows of a 'decent' LR garage/mechanic in North London or within 10 miles or so I would appreciate their details. Thanks
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
Rick the pick can fix your BECM if that proves to be the fault for not a lot of money.
I still reckon that it's likely to be a fuse box problem.
Great. Thanks for the info. This is a great site. Wish I had found it sooner. Hey ho. Possible blonde question but how do I check if the fuses are faulty other than looking burnt out? Or could it be the whole fuse box itself? Could that be causing anŷ of my other issues aswell as the battery drain/engine immobilisation problem eg ABS light coming on when braking, EAS fault causing EAS lights to constantly flash? Are you still of the Opinion that it could be the RF receiver if not the fuse box or becm? Because last year I got stuck for nine hours (dont ask) in Cockfosters, an area renown for bad mobile phone signal and was told by the AA that was what disabled the engine for no apparent reason and they disabled the alarm at that time as it kept going off every time I tried to start the car. I found the solution to the problem myself through LR blogs like this and reset the key using the EKS code in the drivers door.
The Fusebox issue is the actual fusebox not the indvidual fuses...
The Fusebox internally is a couple of circuit boards sitting one above the other with interconnecting pins etc....over time the boards have been known to warp due to heat build up and start to break the imbedded tracks in the boards and also as they twist make intermittant contact wih the pins, and other such nastiness, casuing all manner of electrical upsets....
The HEVAC system has nothing to do with the BeCM (It is one of the very few things on the P38 that is seperate to it IIRC) so the previous garage's report of 'bypassing the BeCM' was hokum.
The Alarm issue and batttery drain is almost certainly the RF Receiver as this is the most common reason, a duff fusebox won't help things either.
The ABS coming on when breaking could be the Accumulator on the pump....with the engine running push the brake pedal with the bonnet up, the boost pump should run every 4-5 or so pedal pushes...if it runs after 1-2 pushes, the Accumulator is shot!
EAS really needs to go on diagnostics to see what fault is logged, Datatek can supply the lead and software for a around £16 + postage (You will need to supply either a USB/Serial adaptor or have a system with a serial port) that read/clear EAS fault codes, Calibrate the heights, run basic testing scenerios like running the pump etc.
The Fusebox internally is a couple of circuit boards sitting one above the other with interconnecting pins etc....over time the boards have been known to warp due to heat build up and start to break the imbedded tracks in the boards and also as they twist make intermittant contact wih the pins, and other such nastiness, casuing all manner of electrical upsets....
The HEVAC system has nothing to do with the BeCM (It is one of the very few things on the P38 that is seperate to it IIRC) so the previous garage's report of 'bypassing the BeCM' was hokum.
The Alarm issue and batttery drain is almost certainly the RF Receiver as this is the most common reason, a duff fusebox won't help things either.
The ABS coming on when breaking could be the Accumulator on the pump....with the engine running push the brake pedal with the bonnet up, the boost pump should run every 4-5 or so pedal pushes...if it runs after 1-2 pushes, the Accumulator is shot!
EAS really needs to go on diagnostics to see what fault is logged, Datatek can supply the lead and software for a around £16 + postage (You will need to supply either a USB/Serial adaptor or have a system with a serial port) that read/clear EAS fault codes, Calibrate the heights, run basic testing scenerios like running the pump etc.
So it looks as if hopefully with all of your invaluable knowledge and advice my auto electrician has traced the drain to the RF receiver as with it turned off there was no drain! In fact the drain was only 0.5 amps which is what I read on the AA machine but the guy insisted that meant 5 amps! Hello! So, I have ordered the latest RF receiver from Island 4x4 as suggested and as soon as it arrives my auto elec will fit it and fingers crossed that will be the end of the battery drain and engine immobilisation etc. watch this space and thank you very much once again
