Blackdisco
New Member
Is every thing else on the car working? I have just solved my battery drain problem after 3 months and a wheel barrow full of the queens shillings.
The first thing to check as you mentioned the climate control having a mind of is own is the Hevac control panel.
Step 1: Lock the car as normal, go in the house have a brew or watch a bit of Eastenders then come back to the car approx 20 mins later. Peer through the drivers window and look at the gear selection panel. If the the light is still on the panel i.e next to D (drive) then the car has not gone to sleep. This will drain the battery overnight maybe two, as it will be pulling (draining) 0.8 - 1.5 amps.
Step 2: Remove the Hevac Unit (Climate control panel)- This is quite easy to do and will only take ten minutes if that. The panel has four metal tabs. I used a dinner knife to release the bottom tabs at each corner and the unit will pull out. Very simple. Disconnect the plugs, paying attention to the oreintation of them and go back to step one. If the light goes out with the hevac panel disconnected, then it the panel that is stopping the car sleeping and causing the battery drain. There is a relay harness modification for this problem, but I found it to be hit and miss.
Hope this helps. It's a starting point anyway and you can do it yourself to avoid heavy auto electrician bills.
The first thing to check as you mentioned the climate control having a mind of is own is the Hevac control panel.
Step 1: Lock the car as normal, go in the house have a brew or watch a bit of Eastenders then come back to the car approx 20 mins later. Peer through the drivers window and look at the gear selection panel. If the the light is still on the panel i.e next to D (drive) then the car has not gone to sleep. This will drain the battery overnight maybe two, as it will be pulling (draining) 0.8 - 1.5 amps.
Step 2: Remove the Hevac Unit (Climate control panel)- This is quite easy to do and will only take ten minutes if that. The panel has four metal tabs. I used a dinner knife to release the bottom tabs at each corner and the unit will pull out. Very simple. Disconnect the plugs, paying attention to the oreintation of them and go back to step one. If the light goes out with the hevac panel disconnected, then it the panel that is stopping the car sleeping and causing the battery drain. There is a relay harness modification for this problem, but I found it to be hit and miss.
Hope this helps. It's a starting point anyway and you can do it yourself to avoid heavy auto electrician bills.
Blackdisco
New Member
Hi sorry to hear that you are still having chew.
I will find the part number tomorrow for you. Just as a matter of interest, is everything else electrical still workig, i.e. stereo,inerior lights, etc etc. As any faulty component can stop the car sleeping
I will find the part number tomorrow for you. Just as a matter of interest, is everything else electrical still workig, i.e. stereo,inerior lights, etc etc. As any faulty component can stop the car sleeping
PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
A long shot, but a friend had this problem on a SAAB. He'd fitted one of those clever radios that listens to traffic reports while the vehicle's parked. Therefore, radio on all the time, therefore battery flat if parked for any length of time.
PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
As a new L322 owner (Vogue on LPG) I've suffered the ignominy of a flat battery twice in the last few days. The battery has got the thumbs up from thr RAC man but I noticed tonight that the light was still on on the Auto vent button after the car was shut down and locked. I've switched to manual vent/heating and the light has gone off. Is this an indication that the HEVAC fan is still running or that the BECM has not shut down? I would appreciate any advice as I need a vehicle that will start reliably!
PASTMASTER
Well-Known Member
It usually means something electrical is running after the ignition is switched off - eg one of those clever radios that stores traffic reports and plays them back to you when you switch on (not so clever if it drains your battery). Not easy to trace but you could go round pressing switches, listening for fans etc, to see if you can spot anything untoward. Unfortunately so much is left on "standby" nowadays (electric cooling fan, clock, radio code, things that switch your lights off after you get out of the car) so could be a fault in almost anything. A methodical auto-electician should be able to go round with a meter and check everything. Don't know if something like this would show up on Testbook.hi guys I had an 2004 RR 3.0 TD6 and also have the same problem. My battery drained max at 2 days. I had battery support cables in my baggageMy car had gone to service 6 times but returned without any success. Please offer me a solution
It can also be the battery, if you get a short circuit somewhere inside, but that's very rare with modern batteries. Afraid it's just a lot of methodical checking till you find it.
Guys I found the solution with the support of my service. The climate fan is the problem. This unit continues working after the car locked. My service had a short solution; made a direct cable connection from the fan to the ignition key and now the fan only works when the car is working. I searched this problem and learned that this is a chronical problem of L 322's.
p400
New Member
Hi all i had the same problem with my L322 2002 range rover, I done searches and found the main problem, it was the Final Stage Resistor causing the problem (part number JQO 000021) i order the new Resistor and fitted it and the problem has now gone.
you can see online instructions on how to fit it here BimmaBlog » Blog Archive » Replacing the Final Stage (Blower) Resistor on a L322 Range Rover (MkIII) 2002 and here http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=343:mkiii-how-to-replace-final-stage-resistor&catid=50:mkiii-eas-system-data&Itemid=73
this worked for me and other range rover owners. the part was a bit of a pain to fit, as its hard to get to, but its just a case of unplugging the old one and plugging the new one in. you can buy it online for around £40 and even on ebay Range Rover Heater Final Stage Unit on eBay (end time 09-May-10 01:00:35 BST)
hope this helps
you can see online instructions on how to fit it here BimmaBlog » Blog Archive » Replacing the Final Stage (Blower) Resistor on a L322 Range Rover (MkIII) 2002 and here http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=343:mkiii-how-to-replace-final-stage-resistor&catid=50:mkiii-eas-system-data&Itemid=73
this worked for me and other range rover owners. the part was a bit of a pain to fit, as its hard to get to, but its just a case of unplugging the old one and plugging the new one in. you can buy it online for around £40 and even on ebay Range Rover Heater Final Stage Unit on eBay (end time 09-May-10 01:00:35 BST)
hope this helps
Hi Guys,
Sorry to rehash an old thread, but i have this same issue myself. Was just wondering, what connectors exactly did the OP apply the copper grease to?.
I have purchased and installed a final stage resistor i bought from ebay, but to be honest it made my fan speed terrible after the install!. I dont know if i got a crap quality one or what, but after putting in the new resistor, the fan wouldnt get anywhere near its top speed, so i changed back to my old one.
Dave
Ernie the engine driver
New Member
Hi guys I have a strange one with my 56 plate vogue tdv8. There's beeping like alarm no indicator lights flashing. I can turn my radio on and off with the key out of the ignition has anyone got any ideas
Cheers
Cheers
Hi all. After reading all posts about battery draining and no joy from previous owner to try sort this problem I had bit of joy and thought I would share in case it helps. When cleaning car I realised the front passenger seat was slightly warm after reconnecting battery. Controls were set to off. Took fuse out and she started this morning
So now just have to sort problem. Hope this helps anyone .
