M

Maurand

Active Member
Hope someone maybe able to answer my question.

Just gone out to the car and it wouldn't unlock. Now I have an external connecter coming out of the grill for a smart charger. Just put the Fluke in the pins and it's at 5 volts. No idea why it was a new one last year, but...

The charger won't work and I'm getting a clicking sound from under the bonnet. So my question is will a fully charged batter with the necessary connector on it just allow me to at least open the car ?

But if it's that low can I unlock it with the key or will the alarm sound etc ?

Thanks for reading and hope someone will offer some advice.

Graham
 
Unlock the drivers door with a key and reach across and undo the passenger door and open the bonnet. Disconnect the battery and charge. If the alarm sounds so be it. I have read somewhere about charging the battery via the starter connections. Perhaps you could try connecting jump leads there.
 
What ever you do you'll have to unlock with the fob eventually otherwise it will be immobilised and you can remobilise it only with the EKA code
 
Thank you both for your advice and ideas. I can get to the battery via the XLR socket on a cable that comes through the grill. This is for a smart charger just to make sure it's fully topped up in winter. But this battery is DEAD, it's totally goosed now at 5 volts and the charger is not recognising it if you get my drift. So all I want to do is open the door and bonnet easily hence my idea of another car battery on another XLR plug. Don't want to start it just get the effing bonnet open. I can do what ever when it's open, for my sins I was trained at Mercedes for what's that worth but that was forty odd years ago. Forgotten most of it and now with chronic arthritis as well. But I'll try and let you know. But once again many thanks.
 
sierrafery said:
What ever you do you'll have to unlock with the fob eventually otherwise it will be immobilised and you can remobilise it only with the EKA code
Click to expand...

Thank you Fery once again your advice is very sound. Yes I understand that hence my question about jumping another battery in there now so I can unlock with the fob. But I also hope the EKA code Land Rover gave me is correct !
 
JUKE179r said:
The EKA code is usually 1515 set from the factory.
Click to expand...
Somebody induced you into a huge error with this... maybe for some old Range Rovers(especially NAS) and not factory set but can trick the BeCM eventually, the factory set EKA is unique for each vehicle and written on the original security card ... that 1515 thing is 100% not valid for a D2, forget about it
 
Everybody who's written THANK YOU !

Just put two fully charged 12 volt SLA batteries together in parallel, only 4.5 ah ones and connected it to the external XLR lead I've got coming from the battery. Okay the alarm sounded but it unlocked with the fob. Hope that's all I've got to do now apart from a new battery. May I ask Fery will the immobiliser now be switched off or will I have to use the EKA code to start it after the alarm started but stopped when the thing opened ?

Again thank you all, hate asking for help but when I do I get great help !
 
sierrafery said:
... that 1515 thing is 100% not valid for a D2, forget about it
Click to expand...
I mentioned it because only 2 of the 9 TD5's that I connected my Nanocom to showed 1515 though I've read also that 1515 doesn't work for the UK & European market.
Oh well... Try 5151 then. lol
 
Maybe this 1515 was already changed by owner. Before i have changed mine it was also something totally different.
 
Maurand said:
May I ask Fery will the immobiliser now be switched off or will I have to use the EKA code to start it after the alarm started but stopped when the thing opened ?
Click to expand...
As long as it accepted the unlock command it should start but if it looses battery power again you'll have to unlock again to start it
 
Have the same problem with my Disco 1. Although it is easier to get into, i.e. as if I was a crook. The key will not unlock the door as it is the wrong key for the car, so only works the ignition! So, I leave the bonnet in the second position, i.e. not locked but still on the safety hook. That way I can still open it to charge the battery. Not ideal but gets me by until I can buy a battery. Once the battery is charged then I can open it with the plip.
Unless a D2 is different and this would set the alarm off. Haven't experimented with my Disco 2. If that sets the alarm off then maybe there is some way of jamming the "bonnet open" switch, but I think leaving it in the last but one closed position should be enough. As always, I wait to be corrected. I know the alarm going off is a pain, but at least you can open it with the key, run around and unlock the bonnet, then slam the doors shut. There is a way, using a Nanocom or similar, of setting the immobiliser/alarm to allow the car to be opened with the key, without the alarm going off. There are threads on here that have mentioned it, so you do not need the EKA all the time.
 
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