By chance, that's what I have just done! The charging LED started flickered and at the same time the charging/maintaining LED came on permanently. Left it for a minute then disconnected the good battery. The charging LED went off, but the charging/maintaining LED has stayed on! I'll leave it like that and see what happens? Many thanks!Connect a good battery directly to the bad one. + to +. Then 0v to 0v (or called negative). Leave it for a few minutes. The charged battery will start to charge the flat battery. Then connect the charger. After a few minutes disconnect the charged battery, 0v first then the +, while leaving the rest connected. Don't short 0v to the + at any time.
Tremendous! I'll go and try that nowIf you have a meter measure the voltage across the battery to see if the charger is holding it up. If its too nakered then it may not. If it's slowly rising then it's charging, all be it slow as the battery comes to life.
If it's dropping then it's not charging unless it's an intelligent charger which plays with it to get a good charge.Now showing 12.94V, at least it's still putting voltage across it.![]()
I realised that you have already sorted the issue out but the simple solution to this issue would be take the battery out of the landy and carry it up to the the other car then charge it out of the vehicle.Right, had dog out for a long walk then come back and put the charger on the Citroen C1 Charging LED came on for 10 seconds then it switched to the charging/maintaining LED, so the charger is obviously ok.I just need to somehow jump the Landy. Problem is the landy is at the bottom of a sloping drive and it's a tad heavy to push to the top
What systems will I cock up on the Mondeo if I take the battery off it?
If the battery is sulphated an intelligent charger should put about 20-22v across the battery to try and recover it. If you have a charge LED on and 13v across it you may be ok on that front. If the charger is undersized for the battery capacity then the voltage should slowly rise as the charge is accepted. If it doesn't then you could disconnect the charger, wait 5 seconds and reconnect to reset it Battery should have sufficient charge voltage for the charger to accept it and start again. If you have a 5A charger and a 100Ah battery you will probably need a full day (24 hrs) to get it to 90% charge, 12 hours would probably be fine to get it started if you wanted to drive it, the alternator would the charge it a lot quicker (probably 20-30 amps)Now showing 12.94V, at least it's still putting voltage across it.![]()
It wouldn't fit in the MondyI realised that you have already sorted the issue out but the simple solution to this issue would be take the battery out of the landy and carry it up to the the other car then charge it out of the vehicle.![]()
I'll give the England game 10 mins and then go and try to reset it.If the battery is sulphated an intelligent charger should put about 20-22v across the battery to try and recover it. If you have a charge LED on and 13v across it you may be ok on that front. If the charger is undersized for the battery capacity then the voltage should slowly rise as the charge is accepted. If it doesn't then you could disconnect the charger, wait 5 seconds and reconnect to reset it Battery should have sufficient charge voltage for the charger to accept it and start again. If you have a 5A charger and a 100Ah battery you will probably need a full day (24 hrs) to get it to 90% charge, 12 hours would probably be fine to get it started if you wanted to drive it, the alternator would the charge it a lot quicker (probably 20-30 amps)
Aye, your right. That's me told. I should have used my Halfords Smart Charger to keep it maintained while I wasn't running the LandySorted! Very pleased for you. Let's hope the battery is ok after the abuse it has suffered.![]()
Yes, I think you are probably right. Anyway, by 11pm it flicked from the charging LED to the Ready/Maintaining LED (I've been wrongly calling it Charging/Maintaining LED) Starter her up and it nearly spun the engine it was that lively. So, hopefully, I haven't done too much damage to it.Intelligence in a battery charger can be a mixed blessing.
I've been checking the wheel bearings. Did the fronts about two + weeks ago, but haven't had a spare weekend to check the backs until this weekend. Nearside was fine, off side had a canny bit of play. Adjusted it, but couldn't test due to flat battery. Had a quick drive down the road this morning before work. Initially, I thought it had gone. On the return drive I suspected I felt a tiny bit of feedback. Massive improvement though. The discs are quite new. I bought EBC ones (pretty sure that was the ones) as you said you had them on and they were champion.With regard to the brake judder, I had a little of that early last year and thought I might be running a warped disc or two. The kind of driving I do - belting down the motorway and then creeping along in a queue of traffic or waiting at a junction such that my foot's on the brake a lot of the time - could contribute. But I couldn't see any wobble on the discs as I rotated them with a gauge on the rim of the disc. On renewing the pads, the judder went away after a few weeks, in plenty of time for 2017's MOT. So try the cheap(er) stuff first.