Kevlandau

Member

• Aug 23, 2022

• #1

Hi, can anyone advise the best way to connect the positive cable clamp (battery connector clamp) to a kill switch with 8 or 10mm threads?
The cable clamp won't fit over the kill switch connectors, so need some kind of ring connector. Any ideas would be grateful.
Mines a 300 tdi 90.

 

L

lynall

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Aug 23, 2022

• #2

Crimp on ring terminal, ebay etc.

 

Kevlandau

Member

• Aug 23, 2022

• #3

lynall said:

Crimp on ring terminal, ebay etc.

Click to expand...

Thanks Lynall,
I thought of that, but those ring terminals can be difficult to crimp I believe. If I have no other option, I guess I could try or buy a new cable with rings already on.
I would need a crimp tool for heavy cable crimps, or does anyone know the length and sectional thickness of the starter cable?

 

Kevlandau

Member

• Aug 23, 2022

• #4

Kevlandau said:

Thanks Lynall,
I thought of that, but those ring terminals can be difficult to crimp I believe. If I have no other option, I guess I could try or buy a new cable with rings already on.
I would need a crimp tool for heavy cable crimps, or does anyone know the length and sectional thickness of the starter cable?

Click to expand...

 

Kevlandau

Member

• Aug 23, 2022

• #5

The image is of the kill switch. Sorry about the size'
Would a bracket or plate in which the battery clamp bolt could be clamped to the plate and the other end connects to the switch be feasible, or could that be unsafe?

 

GRATCH

HUGE MEMBER

• Aug 23, 2022

• #6

Do you have a vice?

Or, you can buy cable of what ever length you want and have ring terminals pre-fitted.

Are you sure that you are competent enough to work on a vehicle?

 

Kevlandau

Member

• Aug 23, 2022

• #7

Yep, I'm confident, just have a cricked neck at the moment and don't want to get under the landie. This is my tenth Landie and have built three myself. This one included. Nut and bolt resto. Where electric's are concerned, I like to do as the experts advise,

 

GRATCH

HUGE MEMBER

• Aug 23, 2022

• #8

Kevlandau said:

Yep, I'm confident, just have a cricked neck at the moment and don't want to get under the landie. This is my tenth Landie and have built three myself. This one included. Nut and bolt resto. Where electric's are concerned, I like to do as the experts advise,

Click to expand...

There is a huge difference between confident and competent.

Your suggestion in the previous post has too much chance of shorting out.

 

L

lynall

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Aug 24, 2022

• #9

Kevlandau said:

The image is of the kill switch. Sorry about the size'
Would a bracket or plate in which the battery clamp bolt could be clamped to the plate and the other end connects to the switch be feasible, or could that be unsafe?

Click to expand...

Thats going to be an issue sooner or later
You can get quick disconnect battery terminals

If you post up a rough location someone local might have a pair of crimp pliers you can borrow

 

M

MJE

Member

• Aug 24, 2022

• #10

You can get a hydraulic crimping tool off ebay for £25 to £30. Then the terminals. Got one myself. Worked fine. Or as suggested, find a place that makes them to order.

 

C

Colthebrummie

Well-Known Member

• Aug 24, 2022

• #11

You could try to source cables from an old ford from a breakers yard, they have ring connectors to fit stupid ford batteries. I looked at getting one of those kill switches but the thought of routing thick cables through the bulkhead put me off and I bought a quick release connector instead.

Col

 

mystery

Well-Known Member

• Aug 24, 2022

• #12

if you can solder on the ring terminal and fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13087352...PTSeIDm8-fBjiqMdcbOvej993YwNGRO2v4vcoUqxoC1KA

 

tottot

Well-Known Member

• Aug 24, 2022

• #13

I have a battery isolator that just clamps on to the negative terminal in the normal way, the cable then clamps on the side of the isolator. A screw knob releases the connection when needed. Find on the flebay.

 

dag019

Well-Known Member

• Aug 24, 2022

• #14

tottot said:

I have a battery isolator that just clamps on to the negative terminal in the normal way, the cable then clamps on the side of the isolator. A screw knob releases the connection when needed. Find on the flebay.

Click to expand...

I have those on the series and tractor, but is a bit of a pain for the defender as need to lift the seat to disconnect.

I would be looking at either solder connections or a cheaper crimping tool if the hydraulic ones are too expensive for you. Although they are not cheap once you have one you find all sorts of things that you can then do yourslef rather than having to buy premade, or custom cables. But you can get hammer crimpers (link) which are much cheaper the the proper hydraulic ones.

 

tottot

Well-Known Member

• Aug 24, 2022

• #15

I opened a hole in the battery box cover plate so I only have to lift the seat base for access.

 

V

V8bob

Well-Known Member

• Aug 24, 2022

• #16

I have never seen or fitted a battery isolator onto a positive battery cable.
They should only go onto the negative cable.
If you fit on a positive there is an increased risk of shorts with bare connectors.

 

dag019

Well-Known Member

• Aug 24, 2022

• #17

V8bob said:

I have never seen or fitted a battery isolator onto a positive battery cable.
They should only go onto the negative cable.
If you fit on a positive there is an increased risk of shorts with bare connectors.

Click to expand...

Lots of isolators do go onto the positive. Anything that is competed or raced needs a positive battery cutoff. And I am looking at fitting one of these isolator solenoids (link) into the battery box on the positive side so there is no further risk of Electrical Faults and fire on my rebuild. I already have one for my winch isolator. As long as your cables are made properly and capped and secured there should be no risk. The ones In The pic below are the positive for my winch and we’re made myself with a hydraulic crimp.