Motor manufacturers always skimp on the spec, what was Ok ish for a new vehicle may become marginal on a 20 year old vehicle, plus it must be good to have spare capacity IMO. With the MF31-1000 I can leave my P38 for over a month and it will still start although that's not something I do very often as I keep all my car batteries topped up via solar chargers.
Wise advice as ever - many thanks.
Series 2a, 1st and second gears...When the roll pins went in the clutch release fork I was able to start it in gear and drive it home syncing the revs by ear to change gear, having driven many cars ,wagons and fire engines with non synchro gearboxes, double declutching is second nature.Youngsters are probably wondering what the old fart is talking about
Thanks to all for the advice, I think I no which battery to go for now@tank93, hankook mf31-1000 any day.
I said youngsters Mark.Series 2a, 1st and second gears...
how's the family, they negative yet?I remember driving a Scammell unit once can't remember how many gears about 10 I guess and neutral only between 1and2 so if you missed a gear or had to stop then you had to go through all of them to be able to select a low gear.Series 2a, 1st and second gears...
Most of us but not out of the woods yet matey!!I said youngsters Mark.
My small but perfectly formed 072 is working fine - the fob receiver is now fitted with a Marty filter (is that what you mean by VR?). Of course the big Hankook battery will last longer if the BeCM decides to stay on - is that "Hankook's Half-Hour"... (ouch!)
I think VR in this case means Voltage Regulator, to ensure you're charging at 14.7 not 13.8
Thanks for the explanation - I'll check the voltage when next out and about.
We there a gearbox called a "splitter box"? I think that was tricky if you missed the correct sequence...
Until they became daf!!!!
Drove a Foden with a triple splitter, good motors but would wear the driver out before the wagon.
