payydg

payydg

Well-Known Member
Got some new doors to put on from SP.

Skins are bare aluminium and the frame is galv was going to T wash everything including the aluminium (or does it make no difference to aluminium?)

Then etch primer, then high build then top coat.

I have some lacquer in a rattle can, is it worth it?

This will all be done in my workshop using rattle cans

any other advice appreciated.
 
I use U-Pol Acid-8 aerosols for the ally on small area caravan body repairs. Then prime with a 2k primer by spraygun although no reason why you couldn't use 1k rattle cans of primer.
Also says it can be used on galv but I've never tried it so can't comment.
More here, incl the Technical Data Sheets.
www.u-pol.com/uk/en-uk/product/upol/coatings-uk/primers/acid8-1k-acid-etch-primer#.YWiro7jMLIU
With ally apply asap after abrading the surface as bare ally forms an oxide skin very quickly.
 
payydg said:
Got some new doors to put on from SP.

Skins are bare aluminium and the frame is galv was going to T wash everything including the aluminium (or does it make no difference to aluminium?)

Then etch primer, then high build then top coat.

I have some lacquer in a rattle can, is it worth it?

This will all be done in my workshop using rattle cans

any other advice appreciated.
Click to expand...

Have you checked the doors fit first? SP4x4 are well known for issues, none good, and their customer service is shocking at best!

As for painting. I personally would remove the door skin, twash the entire frame, then prime it with any primer you want to use. I would also prime the inside of the door skin at this point, then use seam sealer when refitting the door skin. Once refitted, prime the whole thing as one, then paint your top coat.
 
And if they do fit good.
Also try the tin cover inside for fit and the external handle. I had to modify both on mine which would have ruined the paint if I hadn't.
 
mick 1986 said:
Have you checked the doors fit first? SP4x4 are well known for issues, none good, and their customer service is shocking at best!

As for painting. I personally would remove the door skin, twash the entire frame, then prime it with any primer you want to use. I would also prime the inside of the door skin at this point, then use seam sealer when refitting the door skin. Once refitted, prime the whole thing as one, then paint your top coat.
Click to expand...

Is it a faf to remove/refit the door skin?
 
payydg said:
If removing the door skin any tips? Or just pry off carefully and tap back down
Click to expand...

yes for the first bit, use tiger seal as a barrier for the skin against galvanic action, unless someone has a better idea
 
The galvanised rear door I bought went rusty at the two joins in the skin both sides of the window. I think the top 'arch' is steel and had be cut or ground to fit, destroying the galvanised coating.
pic is when the door was circa 7 years old ...

VAJ_nearside.JPG
 
payydg said:
If removing the door skin any tips? Or just pry off carefully and tap back down
Click to expand...

Britannica Restorations on YouTube shows how to do it. I’m sure he uses some form of pneumatic tool, but the principle is the same for using manual items.
 
mick 1986 said:
How did it fit? Did you have to modify it at all?
Click to expand...

No it fitted the hole perfectly. Bolt holes were perfect, door jamb was fine, window slotted in, no problems at all. I was just dissapointed that within a couple of years rust was showing at the joints.
 
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