Zaphod · Jan 31, 2015

Hi I am having issues with my D2 after having put it back together but the one that is really being a pain is this one, I have already chnaged the lambda sensor on bank 1 3 times now, currently it has a brand new Bosch sensor fitted but there's no change (this is the second new one, the previous one was a pattern part) Bank 1 lambda alternated between 0.1 and 0.0 whihc is lean, the managment seems to be doing its hardest to richen it according to the STFT the wiring back to the ECU seems fine. Any good ideas on whats happening? as I am thinking I may have to take the whole inlet off to investigate and that is an unpleasant job on the THOR engine and best avoided if possible. I attach a screen shot of what 'Torque' is telling me

cooltide · Jan 31, 2015

How does it feel to drive?
Wondering if torque is fully compatible, is it logging a fault?
Swap left and right sensors?

Zaphod · Jan 31, 2015

cooltide said:
How does it feel to drive?
Wondering if torque is fully compatible, is it logging a fault?
Swap left and right sensors?

It drives like a bag o' sh*te! It is logging a fault, P0130 but as I say I have repalced the sensor 3 times now, one with a spare, and wtice with a new one, all the same, I also spliced in an osciloscope and that says the same as Torque for the lambda voltage. I also have the conector off original sensor with a length of wire and the wiring to the ECU seems sound

biketeacherdave · Jan 31, 2015

have you checked the colour of the plug the good old fashion way is some times better than a computer.

its not that bad stripping down the thor v8 i just recently did my valley gasket and if you have to tear your engine down you only need to go as far as the upper inlet gasket a tip is to check the torque setting of the bannarna manifold as they can often come loose, i replaced mine a while back a couple of the bolts were defo loose, if you do replace it use a very small amount of silicon sealer

cooltide · Jan 31, 2015

biketeacherdave said:
have you checked the colour of the plug the good old fashion way is some times better than a computer.

its not that bad stripping down the thor v8 i just recently did my valley gasket and if you have to tear your engine down you only need to go as far as the upper inlet gasket a tip is to check the torque setting of the bannarna manifold as they can often come loose, i replaced mine a while back a couple of the bolts were defo loose, if you do replace it use a very small amount of silicon sealer

Sounds reasonable. Air leak or dodgy injector. Tbh never ran with Thor

Zaphod · Feb 1, 2015

biketeacherdave said:
have you checked the colour of the plug the good old fashion way is some times better than a computer.

its not that bad stripping down the thor v8 i just recently did my valley gasket and if you have to tear your engine down you only need to go as far as the upper inlet gasket a tip is to check the torque setting of the bannarna manifold as they can often come loose, i replaced mine a while back a couple of the bolts were defo loose, if you do replace it use a very small amount of silicon sealer

I've just done the headgaskets and pinned one of the liners on this one (it's on the good bank, and has fixed the nasty noise when hot). What is annoying is most of the checks for air leaks are not possible on the THOR. I do have a weep from the rear vally gasket seal and as I recall all the various mounting brackets on the front have to come off to get the lower maninfold out, certainly the AC compressor has to be removed. And the coil which is a real PITA

biketeacherdave · Feb 1, 2015

Zaphod said:
I've just done the headgaskets and pinned one of the liners on this one (it's on the good bank, and has fixed the nasty noise when hot). What is annoying is most of the checks for air leaks are not possible on the THOR. I do have a weep from the rear vally gasket seal and as I recall all the various mounting brackets on the front have to come off to get the lower maninfold out, certainly the AC compressor has to be removed. And the coil which is a real PITA

Mine was weeping oil front and back the rubber seals go hard. Yes a\c com pressure just needs unbolting and moving out of the way. Alternator off mounting brackets off pulleys off a fair few bits but very straight forward

Zaphod · Feb 1, 2015

I may have found the issue, one of the LPG injector nozzles (cyl 5) had been bent and was cracked not sure how significant this is, but it would certainly mean cyl 5 running lean. Now I have to find a replacement.. I had been thinking about replacing the injector blocks as the installer had fitted them under the upper manifold and that makes what was merely an irritation into a real pain when putting the upper manifold back on

biketeacherdave · Feb 1, 2015

Zaphod said:
I may have found the issue, one of the LPG injector nozzles (cyl 5) had been bent and was cracked not sure how significant this is, but it would certainly mean cyl 5 running lean. Now I have to find a replacement.. I had been thinking about replacing the injector blocks as the installer had fitted them under the upper manifold and that makes what was merely an irritation into a real pain when putting the upper manifold back on

Well if its cracked you won't be getting any fuel pressure on either LPG or petrol as both would surely be leaking from the crack.

Zaphod · Feb 1, 2015

biketeacherdave said:
Well if its cracked you won't be getting any fuel pressure on either LPG or petrol as both would surely be leaking from the crack.

The LPG system is not in use at the moment as the tanks are not fitted. However the LPG 'injector' is actually just a fitting that is tapped and screwed into the inlet manifold runner on that cylinder, it won't effect the petrol injection at all fule pressure or otherwise

biketeacherdave · Feb 1, 2015

Zaphod said:
The LPG system is not in use at the moment as the tanks are not fitted. However the LPG 'injector' is actually just a fitting that is tapped and screwed into the inlet manifold runner on that cylinder, it won't effect the petrol injection at all fule pressure or otherwise

have you pressure tested it ? anything attached to the inlet leaking will effect fuel rail pressure at the very least i woulda thought certainly effecting that cylinder its proberly sucking air in where it shouldnt

Zaphod · Feb 1, 2015

biketeacherdave said:
have you pressure tested it ? anything attached to the inlet leaking will effect fuel rail pressure at the very least i woulda thought certainly effecting that cylinder its proberly sucking air in where it shouldnt

I possibly worded that wrongly. The LPG fuel system is entirely separate to the petrol system and so the petrol fuel rail is not effected at all, however there will be extra air being sucked in though the broken piece that has not passed through the MAF and so I believe will cause that cylinder to run lean, but how lean I don't know

biketeacherdave · Feb 1, 2015

Zaphod said:
I possibly worded that wrongly. The LPG fuel system is entirely separate to the petrol system and so the petrol fuel rail is not effected at all, however there will be extra air being sucked in though the broken piece that has not passed through the MAF and so I believe will cause that cylinder to run lean, but how lean I don't know

Oh right get it now. It will run completely on air mixture then as sucking in as much as it can via the crack.

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