D

David1

Member
I have just finished the strip down of my defender, and now ready to start the clean up and painting the axles etc.

I used hamerite on a mk1 escort rebuild a few years back, but that started showing rust pretty quickly after. I have read a few articles saying Por15 and rust-Oleum are pretty good.

Has anyone got any experience of either or other suggestions please?
 
Have a look at the bilt hamber paint range. You can rust treat with hydrate 80, or fertan (my fave) then use electrox (very high zinc, like cold galvanising) and then epoxy mastic as the top coat to give a bullet proof painted topcoat.


I've used bonda zinc primer in the past and it's good, but I think BH electrox tops it, but fertan is amazing stuff, so start with that if you've got any rust to deal with first.
 
I've used POR15 and it sets like glass and is hard as nails but you do have to put a top coat on it otherwise the sunlight can effect it, I managed to get some on my face and hands and had to wait for it to wear off:(
 
I would email bilt hamber for their advice - the owner (Peter Hamber I think) often handles queries and the company are very helpful and knowledgeable, plus they're British. I've heard very good things of POR15, but the prep seems a little fussy and they're American, so ...bleh. :p
 
Rustoleum is good stuff, I have used it on a few rebuilds with good results.
The rustoleum stuff is good value for the money, or if you want to spend a little more, then corroless sell some good products.
 
We use Rustoleum at work for undercoating structural steel work, good stuff!!
 
I've used POR15 on a chassis and was very happy with it. very good adhesion to blasted steel. Also used rustoleum on shiny wire-brushed parts like radius arms etc with good results. But used on some parts that weren't completely rust free and it's come through within months. Sticks to bare steel like **** to a blanket.
Hammerite is toss and should be used only for things like garden gates ornaments.
 
Discokids said:
I've used POR15 on a chassis and was very happy with it. very good adhesion to blasted steel. Also used rustoleum on shiny wire-brushed parts like radius arms etc with good results. But used on some parts that weren't completely rust free and it's come through within months. Sticks to bare steel like **** to a blanket.
Hammerite is toss and should be used only for things like garden gates ornaments.
Click to expand...
Like any good coating, preperation is key - even with a Zinc Phosphate coating such as Rustoleum, without proper prep, it is pointless!!
 
Thanks for all the replays I am going to wire brush/needle gun everything and then treat the metal with the fretan stuff mentioned above.

Once done do you reckon 2 or 3 coats of the rust-oleum paint would be good enough, or should it just be used as a primer then another top coat if I was going to go down that route?
 
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