Universal joints. I have just been under the Landy as I want to make sure I have everything I need to move things forward without clunking.... I was aware that I needed at least 1 universal joint on the front prop shaft but on closer inspection there is a lot of play in them all....... I have done this job years ago on my 2A and recently on my partners toyota surf so I am not fazed by it but these days there is such an array of choice and I am not up to speed on this. I therefore feel more comfortably asking for recommendations. Obviously the need for grease points / nipple is parramaount but what make should I go for in my situation. Thanks


I use these(link) on my 110. They are the best I have found.Although with my use they only last about 18months/40k which I am not sure what you would expect.
 
Hardy Spicer seem to be the preferred option for most people on here, just measure your cap diameter and width across the caps as there are different sizes depending on what prop you have fitted.
 
Ok next question. Radius arms. I have a couple of arms that came with the donor axle one was on the axle (polly bush) and the other they gave me as an extra but told me it had a bend in it, I think I have the ability to get it straight...... well I will give it a go. The bushings are diffrent one rubber and the other orange polly Bush. Should I be looking at having them both the same as I know they respond differently. Both bushings seem ok and have plenty of life left in them. If bending it straight fails I will look at reusing the ones on the vehicle at present but it seems easier to have as much ready to go as I can when the time comes to swap axles. Thanks
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Ok next question. Radius arms. I have a couple of arms that came with the donor axle one was on the axle (polly bush) and the other they gave me as an extra but told me it had a bend in it, I think I have the ability to get it straight...... well I will give it a go. The bushings are diffrent one rubber and the other orange polly Bush. Should I be looking at having them both the same as I know they respond differently. Both bushings seem ok and have plenty of life left in them. If bending it straight fails I will look at reusing the ones on the vehicle at present but it seems easier to have as much ready to go as I can when the time comes to swap axles. Thanks

If it is bent I would be very dubious if you can re-straighten it well enough that I would be happy to reuse it. Particularly if you have a set fitted which you can use instead.
I would also want the bushes matched so the forced were balanced and it felt the saem. With the tolerances of a a defender it might not matter but best practice is definitely to have both sides the same when it comes to suspension.
 
Right..... I will have to have a close look at the ones on the truck as it had a nasty front end smash a few years ago (all part of why I am replacing front axle) and see if they are straight..... then check to see what width they are. Thanks
 
Hmmmm.... well the ones on the truck are the narrow ones aprox 35mm wide and the spare ones are aprox 45mm but I assume by looking at the bracket on the truck that either can be fitted ? Typically one of the ones on the truck is bent....... and one of the spares is bent and they are diffrent widths. SO can I mix and match to get two straight ones but with diffrent widths ? If not I could go back to the guys who sold me the donor axle and try and persuade them to give me another secondhand one that’s straight ! If they have one.....
 
Given my lack of finance and the already mounting cost to get this donor axle up to scratch I am unwilling to buy a new arm..... so i may need to REALLY try and straighten the old one out. Remember that this vehicle never goes faster than 15mph and only drives for 2 miles on dirt roads at any one go and they are private roads not public highways.
 
Given my lack of finance and the already mounting cost to get this donor axle up to scratch I am unwilling to buy a new arm..... so i may need to REALLY try and straighten the old one out. Remember that this vehicle never goes faster than 15mph and only drives for 2 miles on dirt roads at any one go and they are private roads not public highways.
Obviously your choice, you appear to be aware of the risks and your particular operating conditions
 
Remember that this vehicle never goes faster than 15mph and only drives for 2 miles on dirt roads at any one go and they are private roads not public highways.

If that is the case depending on how bent they are possible wouldn't even go to the effort of straightening them!
 
Ok put a straight edge on it and it was about 10mm out so I put it on the anvil, blocked it up, clamped it down and hit it with a BFH, done quite a bit of “Bush mechanics” in the past so fairly competent with a hammer (and I am a stonemason) after a few finishing blows it’s as good as perfect. Burnt out the old black rubbers and popped out the pollybushes. Will replace with good quality pollybush as from what I have read it’s near impossible to fit the rubber / metal sleeved ones. Recommendations for polly bushes would BE GREAT. Thanks
 
There is nothing wrong with the cotton reel types if you have a large enough vice to press them in, they are just not quite as easy to fit as he split ones.
Although others will disagree simply because of the name I fitted a set of yellow britpart polybushes to my radius arms and they were fine. Lasted about 50k of mixed on/off road mileage so for you usage I would have no issues recommending them.

For the radius arm to chassis bushes which you have linked above I would fit OEM branded standard ones rather than polys. They are cheaper and are very easy to fit, unlike the ones mounted in the radius which I would definitely fit poly to.
 
First part located, now time to track down the cotton reel polly bushes as I have a BIG vice and am always up for a challenge. Thanks for the info.
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Been reading old posts on the radius arm to axle bushes and am tempted to go for original landrover ones and get a local garage to fit them. The reason is that the two miles of offroad I drive on is really pot holed and if the original ones give a better ride it may make the experience that little bit smoother ?
 
Errrrrrr this is hard research. Read so many conflicting views. I would be happy to go genuine but at £80 a set that’s NOT going to happen.
OEM are around £20 per set ........ such a difference.
Cotton reels..... still on the agenda.
Splits - easiest but again conflicting.

So much choice and so many views !
 
Errrrrrr this is hard research. Read so many conflicting views. I would be happy to go genuine but at £80 a set that’s NOT going to happen.
OEM are around £20 per set ........ such a difference.
Cotton reels..... still on the agenda.
Splits - easiest but again conflicting.

So much choice and so many views !


As you say it is only 2 miles at 15MPH, go for the cheapies , If you do not like little lost.

Cheers
 

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