CPD1973

CPD1973

Active Member
G,day folks. So I have recently got myself a donor front axle to rebuild as the one on my 1986 ex military 110 is in a really bad way..... I live on an island and there are no MOT requirements so it’s been bad for a long time..... anyway I am now ready to get on with it. I am not a Machanic but have lots of experience and did a full rebuild of a 2A when I was in my early twenties and have been tinkering with all sorts of stuff since then.
I have found the serial number on my donor axle 14M42472A and want to get the full swivel housing, associated seals and bearings for both sides. I expect to go down the ‘KIT’ route and have read about what ones to avoid. How do I identify what year this new axle is ? It has vented discs but no abs sensor. I have tried looking on the forum but have not found what I am looking for. My other question is where on the forum would I find a comprehensive list of these parts (once I have identified the axle) if I should go down the route of individual part purchase. Sure someone has posted a list..... I have broken the axle down into manageable lumps ! Pic 1. of the Donor swivel housings and pic.2 the 1986 taken 6 years ago..... thanks for any help with identification of new axle.
ADE7DCD1-ADF5-44BC-B96B-E10DEAE87CB6.jpeg
4BBEA83F-F913-4ADE-B5D3-8D1A4A12138A.jpeg
 
Is the swivel ball the same on a 1986 defender to that of my 300tdi (1994 onwards) doner axle swivel balls ?
The reason I ask is that I am pricing up parts but am very short on funds right now and if I can choose to reuse the best swivels I have that would save me some serious cash and get me through for a year or two until I am able to get more parts then. I only ever drive 2 miles at a time as that’s the distance to the ferry (island life) and 15mph is the max speed I go due to potholes and ****e roads. (No MOT requirements either) I can’t see the swivels on the 86 as they have gaiters on so want to find out compatibility before I investigate further. Will put my money into good quality seals and bearings. Any help appreciated. Thanks cpd
 
CPD1973 said:
Is the swivel ball the same on a 1986 defender to that of my 300tdi (1994 onwards) doner axle swivel balls ?
The reason I ask is that I am pricing up parts but am very short on funds right now and if I can choose to reuse the best swivels I have that would save me some serious cash and get me through for a year or two until I am able to get more parts then. I only ever drive 2 miles at a time as that’s the distance to the ferry (island life) and 15mph is the max speed I go due to potholes and ****e roads. (No MOT requirements either) I can’t see the swivels on the 86 as they have gaiters on so want to find out compatibility before I investigate further. Will put my money into good quality seals and bearings. Any help appreciated. Thanks cpd
Click to expand...
no unless the disco is an abs axle,pre 300tdi defender balls are frc2644,disco and defender 300tdi onward frc7065,both numbers supercede up
 
Ok... that’s great thanks. I will look to see if I can restore the 300 tdi swivels to anything resembling exceptable for the given situation and except that there will be some ongoing maintenance of fluid levels, if they are beyond salvage then I will get new ones and work out Where I can save some money elsewhere (building a house.... ) thanks again for the help.
 
AE69E867-2746-4FEE-8088-3C8222EDE65C.jpeg
Read the various posts on doing temporary repairs to the swivels so will have a go. Next will be a phone call to one of the main suppliers for parts. Photo showing the strange angle the wheels are at..... assuming it’s collapsed bearing. Will be good to get this donor axle restored and give the old girl a straight set of pegs again.
 
Ok got my parts list slowly coming together but could do with a recommendation for shocks. I drive this vehicle on a dirt track with lots of pit holes and loose gravel on the hills, i mostly use it for towing a twin axle Ivor Williams trailer often with 2 to 2.5 tons in it. At present I think the vehicle has heavy duty springs and I am not sure about the shocks but when I replace the axle I want to replace the shock but not the springs as they seem fine. I drive for 4 miles at the most as it’s an island based truck. Recommendation would be good, I am not off-roading, well only when I need to rescue other cars / cows/ boats etc from obscure locations...... thanks.
P.s have I git my list compete for the ends of my axle rebuild ? Anything glaringly obvious that I have missed. Thanks col.
B2388D2F-6CCE-4E0B-A86F-18B80A659F86.jpeg
 
CPD1973 said:
Ok got my parts list slowly coming together but could do with a recommendation for shocks. I drive this vehicle on a dirt track with lots of pit holes and loose gravel on the hills, i mostly use it for towing a twin axle Ivor Williams trailer often with 2 to 2.5 tons in it. At present I think the vehicle has heavy duty springs and I am not sure about the shocks but when I replace the axle I want to replace the shock but not the springs as they seem fine. I drive for 4 miles at the most as it’s an island based truck. Recommendation would be good, I am not off-roading, well only when I need to rescue other cars / cows/ boats etc from obscure locations...... thanks.
Click to expand...

Fit standard OEM shocks (Boge). If the suspension is standard height these will be more than sufficient. HD springs give the appearance of a lift (but differ from lift springs) and are still suitable to be used with standard factory shocks.
OEM shocks are Bogue
 
Wheel bearing kits look to be too cheap, you need to be looking for Timken bearings as cheap bearing fail prematurely so you end up doing it twice (second time to fit Timken). Also you need 4 bearings if doing both sides (2 per wheel), each Timken will be about the same price as the set you have selected so work on double the price.
 
You will also need the wheel hub grease seal (the one that holds the inner bearing in place) and other gaskets if you bin the wheel bearing kit you selected
 
Good advise and happy to pay a bit more now and suffer less later...... will try and track down individual parts and make an updated list. I want to get it right before ordering. Thanks
 
Give them a call to check make. You may also want to look at your current drive flanges, if you have play/movement between the flange and the driveshaft that will translate to a lot of slack in the drive train and cause rough take-up and various clonking sounds when on/off power
 
Kwakerman said:
You may also want to look at your current drive flanges,
Click to expand...

Good call I will have a look tommorow, I was just cleaning up one of the old ones today and it “looked” good but I i did not check for play. It seemed be a lot newer than the rest as it was still shiny black without rust... I assume it is the flange that wears rather than the hardened shaft.
 
CPD1973 said:
Good call I will have a look tommorow, I was just cleaning up one of the old ones today and it “looked” good but I i did not check for play. It seemed be a lot newer than the rest as it was still shiny black without rust... I assume it is the flange that wears rather than the hardened shaft.
Click to expand...
Normally, but can be both if allowed to go too far
 
Shaft fitting is tight into the flange so I guess it’s been replaced recently. Worth checking. Thanks
 
Universal joints. I have just been under the Landy as I want to make sure I have everything I need to move things forward without clunking.... I was aware that I needed at least 1 universal joint on the front prop shaft but on closer inspection there is a lot of play in them all....... I have done this job years ago on my 2A and recently on my partners toyota surf so I am not fazed by it but these days there is such an array of choice and I am not up to speed on this. I therefore feel more comfortably asking for recommendations. Obviously the need for grease points / nipple is parramaount but what make should I go for in my situation. Thanks
 
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