Jake ingleby

Well-Known Member

• Jul 30, 2017

• #1

Evening peoples,

I've went to change the axle oil today and as I took the plug out the was alot of pressure behind, so I'm guessing the breathers are block.

How do I go about unblocking them.

 

AdamD1

Well-Known Member

• Jul 30, 2017

• #2

Swap them out for the plastic type, good opportunity to extend them too.

 

Last edited: Jul 30, 2017

Paul D

Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

Events Planner

• Jul 30, 2017

• #3

Blow them out, or remove them and blow them out ..

 

C

chris-the-gerbil

Well-Known Member

• Jul 30, 2017

• #4

Theres a banjo on top of the axle. Take that off, blow from the axle end and hopefully the crud at the far end will come out.

If the plastic piping is split, dont buy new ones they are expensive. Small bore fuel hose flexes better, and is cheaper and fits over the banjo stub nicely.

 

Jake ingleby

Well-Known Member

• Jul 30, 2017

• #5

Are they just screwed in then

 

Paul D

Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

Events Planner

• Jul 31, 2017

• #6

Yes, banjo fitting with the nut on top. Don't lose the sealing washers ...

 

Jake ingleby

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2017

• #7

On a unrelated subject, Don't suppose anyone ones what what the torque spec for the oil plug on the diff is

 

C

chris-the-gerbil

Well-Known Member

• Jul 31, 2017

• #8

Jake ingleby said:

On a unrelated subject, Don't suppose anyone ones what what the torque spec for the oil plug on the diff is

Click to expand...

Apologies if teaching suck eggs etc but...

Not a huge amount. A 1/2" extension rod and ratchet will suffice. I've never looked for the official figure truth be told - about 20-25Nm is what mine get. The banjos on the top get less - they are not strong, a bit more than finger tight really is enough.

If you are looking at the transfer oil as well, and you should be, you may need a special spanner or a plug key as theres bog all space by the propshaft, and the drain plug is a taper - do NOT overtighten this - there is a published torque figure of 30Nm but I would go a little less than that. The manual also specifies that you should clean the thread and apply Hylomar to both drain and filler plugs on the transfer case. I do that as well on the axles although I don't think they say it's required.

For all of them of course, undo the fillers before the drains... nothing more annoying than having to fill the axle through the driveshaft end if the filler plug is stuck....

 

Gazbo

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2017

• #9

Jake ingleby said:

On a unrelated subject, Don't suppose anyone ones what what the torque spec for the oil plug on the diff is

Click to expand...

They are tapered threads, ala waterpipe type, do not try to tighten them too much, a bit (1turn) of ptfe thread tape will help them seal, there has been cases where in diff housings the plugs have been forced screwed right through the hole and into the diff, the same force in alloy, gearbox for example can crack the alloy around the plug, I'd say just tighten to "snug", with a turn of tape on the thread.

 

Jake ingleby

Well-Known Member

• Aug 1, 2017

• #10

Right on cheers for that, that's a job for the weekend I think Well after ive change the tranny box oil. Oh while im here don't suppose anyone knows what size torq socket is used for the gear box drian plug

 

C

chris-the-gerbil

Well-Known Member

• Aug 2, 2017

• #11

Jake ingleby said:

Right on cheers for that, that's a job for the weekend I think Well after ive change the tranny box oil. Oh while im here don't suppose anyone knows what size torq socket is used for the gear box drian plug

Click to expand...

Assuming a manual box... 32mm or something bizzare -it should be a hex bolt on the R380 *drain*

Now the filler plug.. that should be a T55.