I suppose that would stop the squealing noise. However, I suspect a hidden requirement of Reeflodge would be that his car worked afterwards. :lol::bowl::lol:
 
The squealing after starting up is USUALLY caused by the auxilliary belt skidding on the alternator pulley or the crankshaft pulley.

The reason is that right after starting up, especially on a cold day, the battery voltage will have dropped a volt or two, and the alternator tries very hard to re-charge the battery as hard as it can. If you have a 100 amp alternator (quite common these days) then at nearly 14 volts the WATTAGE the alternator is producing is 1,400 watts, and allowing for a little bit of losses, and that every 748 watts needs one horsepower, then the auxilliary belt is needing to feed well over 2 bhp into the alternator alone. IOt is quite a drag, and as the belt is hard and stiff from being stone cold, it slips - and squeals.

It is not good for belts to let them squeal.

If your battery is a bit duff, or too small an amperage, the problem gets worse.

I used to spray a little WD40 on old Vee-belts to stop the squealing, which may work on new flat poly-vee belts too. I am told the slight trace of oil takes the shine OFF the belt and also makes it a little more sticky, so it drives better.

Just don't be tempted to over-tighten the belt as it will break up and snap.

CharlesY
 
Charles is correct on his techo bit. . . . . .yer really should change it ASAP if squeeling :) :)
 
Charles is absolutely right! The only problem with a self-tensioning( if a word like that exists) belt, if sprayed with WD40 it will slip even more on a cold morning. The only difference is that you wouldn't hear it slipping. On the old vee-belt motors you could tighten the belt and spray you WD40 to make it stop squealing. Reeflodge fitted a new belt and a bit of WD40 wouldn't hurt.
 
It does not squeal when reving only on the pull away.
I'll try the WD40 on my new belt before I take it off again and try pulling away without it on to see if it still makes a noise.
If it does someone said it could be the Clutch Bearing/Spigot, if it is that is it hard to fix?
 
Might be worth getting a garage to assess this then. The clutch release bear requires removal of the gearbox, IRD, front driveshafts, prop shaft, lower wishbones and front cross member. Both the gearbox and the IRD will required their oil drained and the engine cooling system will need to be drained.

To answer the question 'Is it hard to fix' then the asnwer is 'There are easier jobs'.
 

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