bonnybrook

Active Member
I don't know about three's but the bad luck keeps coming.

Since all the cold weather where I hardly got out of 3rd gear and using the steptronic a lot to control speed, I have notice the cars is revving between 3-4 - particularly when going up hill, not sure if this is low oil or due to the fact you give it a bit more on hills. It's not all the time but often to notice this is not normal. Fluid was changed about 3 years ago. Changes seems smooth enough.

91K '02 - does is sound like the 3-4 high speed solinoids are sticking? Trip to Ashcrofts and new box time?

Help! :(:(
 
oddly, when the engine is cold, the gearbox holds the gears slightly longer so the engine warms quicker (not sure where I read this).

mine seems to have been behaving slightly differently in the cold and snow we've had. couldn't put my finger on it exactly, too busy trying to avoid BMW and nissan driving ****s sliding about, but might be worth a thought. see what happens when the weather warms up.
 
It’s in the rave disk:

When the fluid is cold, the EAT ECU changes gear at higher engine speeds to promote faster fluid warm-up. If the fluid temperature becomes too high, the EAT ECU transmits a cooling request on the CAN link to the ECM to operate the cooling fans.
The fluid temperature sensor has an electrical output to pin 39 of the EAT ECU which also provides an earth path for the sensor…

…Lock-up prohibition control prevents clutch lock-up within the range if the fluid temperature is below 40....C (104....F). This promotes faster warm-up of the gearbox fluid. This strategy is also used by the EAT ECU to prevent lock-up in 1st gear, park, reverse and neutral ranges.

Mine tends to rev a little higher when cold, then goes back to normal: 2100revs at 50mph, 2500revs @ 60mph and 2900revs @ 70mph from memory. All in 5th gear on v6. v6 is geared differently to the td4 jatco auto I think.
 
This evening I paid some attention to it, when driving in D at about 75 kmph I saw on the way up (cold engine, no FBH as switched off) that engine turned at 2.100 rpms, on the way back, same situation meaning in D at about 75 kmph but with the FBH switched on (the temp. of the cooling water became much quicker warm and the arrow much faster set to the middle of the screen) the engine ran at 1.700 rpms.:cool:
 
...Mine tends to rev a little higher when cold, then goes back to normal: 2100revs at 50mph, 2500revs @ 60mph and 2900revs @ 70mph from memory. All in 5th gear on v6. v6 is geared differently to the td4 jatco auto I think.
Mine runs @ 2700revs @ 60mph when cold. Then reverts to the above when warm.
 
Looks like it's f'ed - F4 error yesterday and limp home.

Ashcrofts quoting £925 + VAT and 80 del.

I'm in Derbyshire - anyone know local sources or are they best?

ta
 
in the past f4 has been attributed to poor connection in the multi plugs down inside the inner wing, a long shot i know but cheaper if it fixes it, hippo in the past has posted photos of his connectors modified with cable ties.
 
Ashcrofts are the bestist.

Here it is. 2x hose clips for each connector. Connectors can turn too far, and over clip. They're locked, but can still slide apart by 5mm or something, if the plastic bit fails.

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DSC01080 PnqqrjE
 
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Had a drive up to Martin Lowe auto specialist in Barnsley - and confirmed after driving it without needing to plug into diagnostic that it's gone. Cracked plate - apparently quite common and some going as low as 30K! 91K is good going apparently.

They quoted £1680+VAT for fitted (ouch)

So looks like either Ashcroft & my local man or scrap heap. Cars only worth maybe 3K part ex so it's a tough call.

Ashcrofts £925 + VAT and 80 carriage there and back for box, so might get it back on road for £1500.

I had been looking at a Disco 3 - asked about gear box on them as heard bad things - common fault are circuit boards - £1800 and replacement box £3000!!! Think i give that a miss.
 
What do they mean by a craked plate? Clutch plate?


Hippo, sadley the working of an autobox are a bit beyond me. He said it was something that assisted between 1-3 but was "full on" in 4/5 and when underload - hence the more pronounced problem in those gears. Its something made of aluminium which either cracks or eventually seperates.

It only does it when floored or going up hill, I drove Chesterfield to Barnsley without the fault.

I asked about oil but he said not with these symptoms - thats usually a difficulty in engaging gear.
 

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