S

Sootydog

New Member
Hi,
I have very little knowledge of automatic cars and my Freelander 2 (80k miles) has started to make some strange noises.
This only happens when going steeply uphill and usually between 2nd and 3rd gears.

It sounds like Cha-Cha-Cha and there is a very slight hesitancy. It repeats until either the hill stops or the revs rise significantly. It sort of feels like surfaces rubbing, engaging, disengaging, rubbing, etc etc but I don't know if this is even possible with an automatic.

Any advice gratefully accepted. Thanks.
 
These sorts of faults are almost impossible to determine from the Internet.

More information is needed for a better diagnosis. For instance. Does the sound happen at a set road speed or engine speed?

There are a few issues which crop up on these, so they are worth checking.

There are some known problems with power unit mountings which you can check yourself.
The lower tie bar bush has a habit of delaminating, which causes the power unit to move under load. This movement can allow unintentional contact between the drive belt assembly and other components, which makes a noise.
The noise could also be from some other issue with the drive belt, like a tensioner not holding the belt tight, or even the overrun pulley on the alternator has seized.
Unfortunately it's very difficult to isolate a particularly sound on a modern vehicle, as sound generated from one area, can manifest itself somewhere different.

If it's a road speed generated sound then it could be anything in the drive line, the PTU and rear diff are particularly prone to issues, both of which make noise.
Also brake back plates can become detached and rub on the brake rotor, making a woosh woosh sound.
 
Thanks for your reply. I was beginning to think it might be a fluid level issue which was sensitive to the angle of the car. It only happens on very steep hills. I will have a look around the car but it sounds like I need I wait till it gets worse and easier to diagnose.
 
Sootydog said:
Thanks for your reply. I was beginning to think it might be a fluid level issue which was sensitive to the angle of the car.
Click to expand...

Unless the fluid is leaking, or hasn't been set correctly after a fluid change, then it's unlikely.
For the box to be effected by low fluid, it would need to be a 2 or 3 litres low, which would definitely make a mess on the floor if it was leaking.
It's probably worth checking the level though, even if it's just for your own piece of mind.
 
Sounds like torque converter shudder. Mine had it for several years and it never got any worse. Might be worth changing your transmission fluid and if that doesn’t sort it had a bit of Dr tranny shudder fix.
 
Thank you for your responses. I have spent some internet time looking at torque converter and autobox animations and I think I agree that its probably a torque converter issue. Is this supposed to be a "sealed for life" part ? I don't have a record of any previous servicing.
 
Sootydog said:
Is this supposed to be a "sealed for life" part ? I don't have a record of any previous servicing.
Click to expand...

Manufacturers say components are "sealed for life", but doing so means no servicing takes place, massively shortening the component life.
LR list servicing intervals as 150k miles, which is 100k too long. The gearbox manufacturer would suggest 30-50k fluid change intervals, and they should know, they built it.
Vehicle manufacturers use ridiculously long service intervals as selling points, making the vehicle appear cheaper to maintain, although this wouldn't factor in a replacement gearbox, which is what happens if the fluid isn't changed in a timely fashion.
 
You dont need to 'flush' it. Just do a partual oil change. Seasoned FL2 owners have been doing this at 50k miles as faults tend to creep in around 60k miles, for over a decade.

When the fault occurs... if you drop a gear manually does the fault go away?
 
I don't think it goes away if you drop a gear. Because of the sound and the slight engine surge (very slight) it actually feels like there is another gear engaging/ disengaging especially between gears 2 & 3. I know how daft that sounds!
I assume that a partial oil change helps if the oil has lost its properties whereas a full flush would deal with particle contamination.
 
Sootydog said:
I don't think it goes away if you drop a gear. Because of the sound and the slight engine surge (very slight) it actually feels like there is another gear engaging/ disengaging especially between gears 2 & 3. I know how daft that sounds!
I assume that a partial oil change helps if the oil has lost its properties whereas a full flush would deal with particle contamination.
Click to expand...
The oil contains cleaning chemicals. Auto box manufacturers quote only a partual change is needed. Auto box oil doesnt get dirty like engine oil which gets heavily contaminated by the combustion cycle. When peeps refer to flushing, they're using a term the USA (merkins) use to force pulsed liquid though an auto box in order to clean it. Its quite common over there. Near enough unheard of in the uk and not something i would do to mine. Some garages offer a full flush meaning they're going to try to change all the oil. This can only be done by putting fresh oil into the oil pipe circuit, and draining oft one of the other oil pipes, with the engine on tick over. Hence turning the auto box oil pump to circulate its oil.
 
Last edited:
First thing I did when I got my Fl2 was have every oil changed. I had paperwork showing oil changes including auto box but did mine to start from a level playing field. My garage owner told me he makes a lot of money from seized autos because of lack of oil changes. Anybody with an auto should refer to the auto box manufacturers recommended service intervals and NOT the car manufacturers.
 
OK, so I have had the transmission oil changed and I still have the same problem. The transmission does seem a bit smoother & quieter but something still makes a strange noise. So here's some more info in case anyone out there knows whats wrong.
The engine needs to be very warm, not just getting the water up to temp but at least 10 to 15 miles driving. It only occurs if there is an incline and the engine is working a bit harder. Starting in 1st or 2nd it occurs between 2nd and 3rd gear at about 1600 to 1800 rpm. It sounds like its trying to change up a gear but immediately decides not to. If you push the revs a bit higher it changes into 3rd and as far as I can tell the problem goes away. Trying to keep constant revs in 2nd you can hear the engine note slightly changing down then back up again. This will continue to cycle at a period of about one second until I increase throttle or run out of hill. If it was a manual box it sounds like you are engaging a worn out clutch and doing it a bit too violently then immediately disengaging.
No lights or fault codes. Air filter is new and MAF sensor is clean. I was beginning to blame the EGR valve but as its buried i'm not going there atm. Any ideas.
Thanks in advance.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Rob4x40
L322 TD6 transmission adventures
Replies
13
Views
3K
badfluffy
badfluffy
L
1998 Land Rover 300 TDI - Rumbles and squeaks / screeches
Replies
15
Views
1K
Disco1BFG
Disco1BFG
HeywoodFloyd
Should my wheels move like that?
Replies
18
Views
2K
HeywoodFloyd
HeywoodFloyd
hotmrw
RRS - 2006 TDV6 - DIFF? GEARBOX? TORQUE CONVERTER? +++
Replies
5
Views
986
Datatek
Datatek
C.McGrory
drives nicely with occasional boost of power!?
2 3
Replies
41
Views
3K
sierrafery
sierrafery