sorry folks no pics, i left the camera at home :doh:
ill give as detailed a walk through as i can, hopefully it will be understandable, and help others.
right, from the start:
fault occurred at 100,000 miles, after a hard acceleration, gear changes suddenly became very harsh and felt like a rear end shunt.
Using the steptronic, and backing off the throttle before changing gear was better but still rough.
first thing to check is the Automatic Transmission Fluid (atf) level and condition, there's a few guides on here on how to do this but basically its as follows:
- park on level ground with good access underneath
- remove sump guard from under engine bay
- locate level plug on underside of auto box, 5 mm allen bolt near to gear selector rod.
- locate fill point, top of box, nearest the radiator, small rubber bung in it.
- run engine, and move though gears a few times
- continue to run engine until atf is at 35-45 degrees, best checked with a thermometer against the ally casing, aim for 35 degrees, as fluid will be slightly hotter.
- once up to temp, leave engine running and in park
- remove level plug
- catch atf in suitable container, small amount (egg cup full) should come out.
- wait for atf flow to become a small consistent dribble.
- replace level plug
if lots of atf comes out, the box has been overfilled, or its got too hot, just be patient and double check everything
if there's no consistent dribble, you need to pour in new atf until it flows out the level hole and becomes a consistent dribble.
once your sure the level is correct, go for a test drive.
over or underfilled boxes can give all sorts of problems, and this may have fixed them (fingers crossed)
at this point its also best to check the atf condition, i catch some of it in a white cup as its easier to see the colour and/or any foreign particles
brand new atf is cherry red but once its been used a little it will be browny, that's ok.
dark brown, coffee coloured and smelling burnt , is definitely not ok, the atf will be long past its usable life and requires a change.
if there's foreign particles in the sample something has definitely gone wrong inside the box.
N.b do not mistake your atf sample for black coffee, it is not drinkable...
as far as im aware old burnt atf wont make the auto box drive perfectly, but shouldn't give the symptoms i described, so further investigation is required.
Now, to properly diagnose any faults, it is recommended to have either LR or and independent come and plug a magical box into the car, and this will miraculously tell them exactly whats wrong, and that you need a new or a reconditioned gearbox.
if your want to try yourself there's a handy pdf file here
http://muddyoval.com/articles/fltech/transmission/JF506E Supplement Part 1.pdf
with a very handy data sheet for the jatco gearbox.
using the plug diagram and data sheet for the 2004 freelander you can find the specs for each of the control solenoids as well as the sensors.
finding and getting to the actual plug in the car however can be a bit more tricky, but its not too hard.
look at the front of the autobox, between the box and the radiator, and you'll see 2 round plug connectors. ones an 18 pin plug ( which we want) the other? i suspect is the steptronic controls but i didn't need to find out.
once you've got to the plug, un-clip it from its mount and twist anti-clockwise to disconnect it.
N.b engine must be off for this procedure
find which end goes into the autobox, and begin testing . . .
if everything tests out within spec, your problem is beyond help in this thread (although there is a pressure line the can crack on earlier box's and may be visible and repairable inside).
hopefully? the testing has pointed to a solenoid or sensor that isn't within spec. this is probably the part that requires replacing ( control pressure solenoid in my case)
now to repair the fault:
parts/tools needed ( that i can remember):
- somewhere level to work with access underneath
- spanners
- socket set
- replacement part
- oil resistant gasket compound ( i used havoline blue, non setting)
- 10ltrs new atf ( LR N402)
- funnel, with hose
- grips/pliers
- buckets
- antifreeze
- this pdf http://www.transtec.com/tech_insert/94231.pdf
now it time to play
- park up level, remove sump guard
- run engine until atf is hot
- shut off engine
- remove drain bolt, (24mm spanner) on underside of box near level plug
- catch atf, approx 3.5 ltrs
- start engine and move though gears ( 30 sec max running)
- catch another 0.5 ltrs of atf
- check there's not bits in th atf or on the magnetic plug
- replace drain plug
- disconnect battery and remove
- remove battery box
- remove egr and flexi hose attached
- remove large hose from inter-cooler (in-front of rad)
- move anything else to get better access to the front pan of the auto box
- disconnect both atf cooler pipes going into the top drivers side of the auto box (19mm spanner required)
- get under vehicle and disconnect both small hoses coming from the atf cooler, don't get wet!
- unbolt and remove atf cooler from engine bay
- ensure you have good access to the front pan of the auto box
- unbolt the pan, (approx 20 bolts 10 mm socket required)
- carefully prise off the pan to expose the valves.
- view the diagram in the pdf to locate the faulty part on the actual box.
- unbolt faulty part ( other bits may need ot come off first i.e the plug connector, other solenoids)
- remove faulty part
- test resistance of faulty part, check against original readings and new item.
- fit replacement part
- ensure all other bits are securely re-positioned
- clean edge of box and pan
- lightly coat edge of pan with sealant/gasket compound
- refit pan, bolt up squarely and snugly
- refit atf cooler and atf lines
- refill box with atf fluid ( just under amount removed)
- check for leaks
- replace all other removed parts, except sump gaurd
- top up coolant
- test run engine, take thought gears slowly and carefully.
- check for any leaks
- bring atf up to 35 degrees and repeat atf level check.
- check for any leaks.
once happy there are no leaks and that the atf is at the correct level, take for a carefull test drive.
hopefully thats solved the problem, however being as the atf is warm, the sump gaurd is off, and your proberly coverd in oil, you might as well drain the atf aout again and refill with fresh.
this will give you roughlty a 3/4 atf change.
if all the above works and the car now drives fine, give yourself a pat on the back, you've just saved yourself the cost of a recon unit (approx £900 + labour)
total cost for mine was about £150 for atf, antifreeze and the solenoid (£44 from ashcrofts)
total time to change the part was about 6 hours
hope this is of help to someone, thanks again to everyone for the help earlier with diagnosing the fault. and again sorry there's no pics.
