mack1970dude

mack1970dude

Member
Evening all!
Stupid question (Not the first, I know!!), but how do I tell which Auto Gearbox
is fitted to the RR??
2 Options are GM or ZF: Is there an easy way to identify??
Do they both take the same oil?
And can I change the oil in either without any special tools???
Many thanks for all the usual help!
Mick
(Been quoted £300 all in! Think it might be worth the headache?!?!?!?)
 
Oil is different I believe between the GM and ZF boxes and the GM box is critical. GM box is fitted to early diesels, not sure when the change from GM to ZF came on the diesel but I think it was post 2006 with the TdV6 engine. Petrol was I believe always ZF. Saint V8 is the man who will know for sure.
 
You guys are quick!
Hippo, did you have any probs changing the oil on your L322?
The place who quoted for it said you have to lift the engine to remove the sump...
Just wondering if that's how they fatten the price?
 
mack1970dude said:
You guys are quick!
Hippo, did you have any probs changing the oil on your L322?
The place who quoted for it said you have to lift the engine to remove the sump...
Just wondering if that's how they fatten the price?
Click to expand...

No problems at all

There talking sh!t mate

No need to lift engine, just may need to open up torque converter to totally drain all the old oil.

But I just drained what I could then just flush the system through with new oil after a couple of weeks

A competent DIYer can do it.

Your looking at around £45 on oil and £40 for a filter and gasket

And around an hours work
 
Last edited:
2.0_hippo said:
No problems at all

There talking sh!t mate

No need to lift engine, just may need to open up torque converter to totally drain all the old (fuel) should read oil

But I just drained what I could then just flush the system through with new oil after a couple of weeks

A competent DIYer can do it.

Your looking at around £45 on oil and £40 for a filter and gasket

And around an hours work
Click to expand...

edited to correct:)
 
2.0_hippo said:
No problems at all

There talking sh!t mate

No need to lift engine, just may need to open up torque converter to totally drain all the old oil.

But I just drained what I could then just flush the system through with new oil after a couple of weeks

A competent DIYer can do it.

Your looking at around £45 on oil and £40 for a filter and gasket

And around an hours work
Click to expand...

Got to say if a novice (me) with a little guidance (from my marvellous indie) and the step by step guide could manage it anyone can. I haven't done anything on a car apart from first parade and weekly checks for almost 2 decades. The only interesting part is getting the oil into the bloody filler. It took creative thinking from my marvellous indie :D
Oh and don't forget to keep the pan straight as you remove it or you'll get an oil shower :hysterically_laughi
 
GM5L40E for oil burners up to my2006, 5HP24 on the petrol up to my2005

Doozel from my2007 ZF6HP26 and on petrol from my2006

ZF6HP28 on petrol from my2010 and ZF8HP28 on doozel from my2011

The petrol box I know should only be filled with The specified oil, dextron is not compatible with the clutch friction material apparently, will check sources of the info!
 
Confused by various comments on gearbox failure!!!!
Should the oil in gearbox have been changed by dealer at any service interval??
Opinions as to not change if not done already!

Car has full dealer svc history so should it have been replenished already??

Also disconcerting as to fact you cant change all the oil without access to TC! (Do not fancy removing gearbox on a pair of stands!!)

So, here's a theory for you all to ponder:
Is it possible (Has anyone tried..) to drain gearbox oil through oil cooler???
Thinking disconnect cooler, attach drain hose to return & feed hose to supply & run engine while monitoring oil coming out!!
Then dropping sump & replacing oil filter
Use a bit more oil but should replace all in system!!
(Probably the most stupid thing posted here today, but you guys deserve a good laugh!!!:):):):):):))
Cheers
Mick
 
mack1970dude said:
Confused by various comments on gearbox failure!!!!
Should the oil in gearbox have been changed by dealer at any service interval??
Opinions as to not change if not done already!

Car has full dealer svc history so should it have been replenished already??

Also disconcerting as to fact you cant change all the oil without access to TC! (Do not fancy removing gearbox on a pair of stands!!)

So, here's a theory for you all to ponder:
Is it possible (Has anyone tried..) to drain gearbox oil through oil cooler???
Thinking disconnect cooler, attach drain hose to return & feed hose to supply & run engine while monitoring oil coming out!!
Then dropping sump & replacing oil filter
Use a bit more oil but should replace all in system!!
(Probably the most stupid thing posted here today, but you guys deserve a good laugh!!!:):):):):):))
Cheers
Mick
Click to expand...

Run engine, no oil pressure in gearbox, what do you think might happen?
No need to drain the TC, just drain what you can, run for a couple of weeks then drain and refill again.
 
Datatek said:
Run engine, no oil pressure in gearbox, what do you think might happen?
No need to drain the TC, just drain what you can, run for a couple of weeks then drain and refill again.
Click to expand...
+1...

Never run the gearbox dry.....the engine is still turning the TC and various other bits even if it is not in gear - you'll feck it totally!!
 
I raised a question myself regarding gearbox oil changes several weeks ago, but have been too busy with other things to move forward. Could someone please clarify the oil needed for a TD6 L322 GM gearbox and the best place to source it from. Likewise, the filter required. Many Thanks, Mike
 
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