jimmacD

jimmacD

Well-Known Member
Hi all, just started to pull parts off to replace gearbox 2-4 brake solenoid on Jatco auto td4. I don't have a workshop manual and interweb stuff covers.. servicing, solenoid fixes and resistance testing but nothing about sump removal. I have removed intercooler pipe, egr valve pipe, undertray and gearbox cooler support bracket. How much more do I need to remove... don't really want to drain and remove cooling pipes if I can help it? Has anyone replaced solenoids and any handy tips?
 
jedi said:
Sounds about right, no need to drain coolant. Now just undo all those bolts around the pan and crack it off.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIBRAC&usg=AOvVaw1Z9vkP5xVxFSIuUo4ibYzh
Click to expand...
Thanks Jedi, your a star, bit of bedtime reading! So much easier when manufacturers put stuff under the car, my Range Rovers are a doddle compared to the Freelander, can't even get in the bloody thing without bashing my head. My Wife struggled and she is 5'4" mahoosive design fault not having height adjustment.
 
Gearbox sorted today, solenoid out and fixed, that was the easy bit.... what an effin' faff getting to the solenoids. If I have to do it again I would take the cooling pipes out, saves so much time and swearing! My theory is that the Freelander 1 was designed by a Lord of The Rings fan who thought that most owners were going to be Hobbits from the Shire with the hands of three year olds! Had my teenage daughter involved at one point trying to get the sump bolts back in.
 
jedi said:
Good stuff, how did you fix the solinoid may I ask?
Click to expand...
Hi Jedi, After several hours of cursing and finally getting the sump off, the easy bit was fixing the solenoid..... carefully prise the four retaining crimps away from the connector end of solenoid so that the cap can be removed with a small screw driver, then remove plastic connector cover which shows inside of solenoid... there are three small wires which give ground to the solenoid and the middle wire often breaks loose, you can tell this by moving the assembly... two outer wires stay in place but middle moves. To fix, either use small piece of 4 amp or more wire and solder a connection between the wires or my choice, blob of solder between one wire and the centre. There is a "how to" on Youtube. Free fix for 2-4 brake duty solenoid!
 
Excellent good to know, always though if it goes open circuit, then there was no way in finding the break in the wire, without unwinding miles n miles of thin copper wire..


Yes it's a pain getting all those bolts off, I had to attack from the top n bottom....did you remove the battery and holder to give more access from the top?
 
Some more pdfs from my collection that I've found, let's keep the Jacto box repairs chugging along.
 

Attachments

  • JF506E-BenchNotes-Manual.pdf
    3.5 MB · Views: 141
  • XT307-S941 JATCO JF506E Transmission Replacement.pdf
    1.5 MB · Views: 170
jedi said:
Excellent good to know, always though if it goes open circuit, then there was no way in finding the break in the wire, without unwinding miles n miles of thin copper wire..


Yes it's a pain getting all those bolts off, I had to attack from the top n bottom....did you remove the battery and holder to give more access from the top?
Click to expand...
I removed as little as possible, obviously, engine under tray, n/s plastic wheel arch gearbox cover, turbo intercooler pipe, egr valve pipe, gearbox intercooler mounting bolts, gearbox loom bracket, 2x twist gearbox multi pin connectors and then bungie cord to move coolant pipes out of the way. If doing again I would drain and remove the coolant "T" connection as this gives far better access to the difficult bolts on engine side of sump pan which proved to be the biggest challenge unless you have the hands of a toddler!? Top tip... when refitting, put first bolts in top and bottom to line sump up before refitting the others, I didn't and had a faff getting some to take the thread as slightly out of line.
 
Well done.
I've done the 2/4 duty solenoids several times now, but don't remove half that stuff. It must have taken hours.
Removing the sump guard and arch side screen is necessary for access.
The cooler to pan bracket bolts need removing, so do the fluid to cooler pipes from the gearbox. The whole cooler is then simply, lifted up and towards the right of the vehicle, where it sits in the space between the radiator and block. At this point, all the pan bolts are accessible, so the solenoids can be accessed.
;)
 
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