Apparently my box is flairing. I had a specialist look at it tonight. So it appears it is mechanical. I hold my hand up!
Finally got my air bag light sorted out today and the abs light came on just before. its gone out again now though, so it looks like there is something else waiting to bite me.
Any one want a p38 with an iffy box?
 
dirtyrov said:
Apparently my box is flairing. I had a specialist look at it tonight. So it appears it is mechanical. I hold my hand up!
Finally got my air bag light sorted out today and the abs light came on just before. its gone out again now though, so it looks like there is something else waiting to bite me.
Any one want a p38 with an iffy box?
Click to expand...

Same problem as mine and several others I'm afraid:( Plucking up the courage to swap it out at the moment when I've done all the other jobs.
You could try Lucas Transmission Fix, sorted mine for a year or so:)
 
Half thinking of giving that a go and then chopping it in against a td5 disco if it works. I have seen a few different versions of that lucas stuff though. i have seen one which is in a round bottle which looks like you squeeze it out. I have also seen sum wich is in the normal lucas shaped bottle which i guess is mixed with atf.
 
dirtyrov said:
Half thinking of giving that a go and then chopping it in against a td5 disco if it works. I have seen a few different versions of that lucas stuff though. i have seen one which is in a round bottle which looks like you squeeze it out. I have also seen sum wich is in the normal lucas shaped bottle which i guess is mixed with atf.
Click to expand...

The genuine Lucas is in a round squeeze bottle you add to your existing oil:)
 
Seen that stuff at my local shop. i may give it a go this weekend. Just need to wait and see if the bloke who looked at it tonight is interested in buying it at the bargin price i want for it with the fault
 
Mine does similar, except it only flares a little when changing from 3-4th or 4th-3rd... It hasn't got any worse or better in the last 11,000 miles, I've just lived with it...
 
Clarky130 said:
Mine does similar, except it only flares a little when changing from 3-4th or 4th-3rd... It hasn't got any worse or better in the last 11,000 miles, I've just lived with it...
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Mine was 2nd /3rd and 3rd/4th, Lucas fixed it completely for a few thousand miles, but now 2nd/3rd is flaring again. Like you I drive round it but would like to get it sorted as it makes me nervous pulling the caravan:)
 
i have put some lucas oil in my box and it hasn't fixed the box but the gear changes are so much better. i am thinking of putting a 2nd hand box in the truck now. are all the boxes the same for the gems powered trucks? I have seen 4HP-22 or 4HP-24. i guess i need to get under my p38 and find the part number. but what is the difference with those two boxes?
 
Datatek said:
Mine was 2nd /3rd and 3rd/4th, Lucas fixed it completely for a few thousand miles, but now 2nd/3rd is flaring again. Like you I drive round it but would like to get it sorted as it makes me nervous pulling the caravan:)
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Any flaring or hesitation has to be down to a sticky valve block. There is no other reason it would happen.
 
dirtyrov said:
is the valve block something that can be serviced with the box in the car or is it a full strip down job.
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Valve block can be removed and cleaned with gearbox in car. But not unless you seriously know what you are doing. And i really mean that, not for the weekend mechanic. If it is reassembled incorrectly you can do a lot of damage.
 
I am time served in the nuclear sector and i am confident enough to tackle most things. could do with getting my hands on a manual for the box if such a thing exists.
 
dirtyrov said:
I am time served in the nuclear sector and i am confident enough to tackle most things. could do with getting my hands on a manual for the box if such a thing exists.
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Very hard to find, I have accumulated a bit of info. Lots of places in the USA and Nigeria (!) claim to sell the manuals but I'm inclined to believe they are a con or at least are more Haynes manual than ZF workshop manual.
Could do with a small nuclear explosion to put under mine:rolleyes:
 
the last one ive got covers upto the 3.9 engine mechanical governed ones,its the little plastic balls you have to get back in the right locations as they fall out if you split block in half
 
jamesmartin said:
the last one ive got covers upto the 3.9 engine mechanical governed ones,its the little plastic balls you have to get back in the right locations as they fall out if you split block in half
Click to expand...

And the differently rated springs James. :)
 
Datatek said:
Very hard to find, I have accumulated a bit of info. Lots of places in the USA and Nigeria (!) claim to sell the manuals but I'm inclined to believe they are a con or at least are more Haynes manual than ZF workshop manual.
Could do with a small nuclear explosion to put under mine:rolleyes:
Click to expand...


Mine also mate!


So i am thinking the valve block is on the back of the box somewhere. Would that be right? If a can try and fix it for free i need to because i have only had it 6 months and it already stands me at well over what its worth.
 
underneath t27 torx bit holds it to box only remove the subtley larger headed screws otherwise it will drop in pieces instead of a hole ,rear housing only holds park brake
 
thanks for that. Tempted to get a second hand box, fit the working valve block off that to mine rather than changing the whole box. Then have a play with my old valve block and see if i can see anything wrong. Worst case, the new valve block doesn't make a difference but its only cost me half a day in time and a few quid on a filter and fluid. but then i will have to change the hole lump. but i will at leoat know the box is past it rather than just a piece which is a dam sight easier to change.
Thanks guys! I have a plan!
 
when you fit another one you will find holes for the screws allow block to be moved set it central and ensure valve locates in selector
 
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