Neptune1922

Neptune1922

Member
On the 6th of October I reinsured my D1. On the 9th the LHR shock absorber bracket fell off the chassis; vehicle off the road! I therefore brought forward my intention to change the chassis. Sixty days later, after a faultless start, I drove it onto a transporter. I picked my shiny D2 up on Feb 1st. Since then I have had battery problems. The alternator was outputting 14.63V at 2k rpm with the heated seats, front and rear heated screens switched on as a load. When I worked in the Land Rover service, 45 years ago, the acceptable readings would have been 13.6V to 14.2V. I replaced the alternator and Battery. I now have about 400mA quiescent drain 10 minuets after locking the vehicle. I have removed each fuse, link and relay one at a time and still have this very high current drain. The battery is 110Ah and will support some drain but 400mA is much too high. Also a "Nanocom' I purchased when I had an engine ECU problem 20 months ago does not want to operate.
Three questions:-
1/ What is the acceptable quiescent drain on a modern(?) vehicle like my D2?
2/ Does the Nanocom have an internal battery that I should have charged? How can I revive it?
3/ When I picked up the vehicle the air suspension did not seem 'right' to me. I did need to replace the 30A link but it still seems 'not right'. Prior to the chassis change I replaced the two hight sensors and set the hight with my Nanocom; about 20 months ago. Since then, until the chassis change, I have had absolutely no problems with the air suspension... Currently is seems a bit too high to me! Has anyone got any thoughts?
Hope to hear from you soon.
 
Neptune1922 said:
On the 6th of October I reinsured my D1. On the 9th the LHR shock absorber bracket fell off the chassis; vehicle off the road! I therefore brought forward my intention to change the chassis. Sixty days later, after a faultless start, I drove it onto a transporter. I picked my shiny D2 up on Feb 1st. Since then I have had battery problems. The alternator was outputting 14.63V at 2k rpm with the heated seats, front and rear heated screens switched on as a load. When I worked in the Land Rover service, 45 years ago, the acceptable readings would have been 13.6V to 14.2V. I replaced the alternator and Battery. I now have about 400mA quiescent drain 10 minuets after locking the vehicle. I have removed each fuse, link and relay one at a time and still have this very high current drain. The battery is 110Ah and will support some drain but 400mA is much too high. Also a "Nanocom' I purchased when I had an engine ECU problem 20 months ago does not want to operate.
Three questions:-
1/ What is the acceptable quiescent drain on a modern(?) vehicle like my D2?
2/ Does the Nanocom have an internal battery that I should have charged? How can I revive it?
3/ When I picked up the vehicle the air suspension did not seem 'right' to me. I did need to replace the 30A link but it still seems 'not right'. Prior to the chassis change I replaced the two hight sensors and set the hight with my Nanocom; about 20 months ago. Since then, until the chassis change, I have had absolutely no problems with the air suspension... Currently is seems a bit too high to me! Has anyone got any thoughts?
Hope to hear from you soon.
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum by the way.
You may wanrt to go onto the "Introduce yourself" part and do just that.

What happens when you unplug and remove all fuses and relays at the same time? There are incidentally fuses which are not in the two fuseboxes, i believe.
I'm not an elelctrickery bloke. hopefully @sierrafery will pop on soon and help as he is the biz!

Do you have wiring diagrams like the ones in RAVE?
 
Thanks for reading and putting forward a possible answer, I may resort to connecting each circuit one at a time...
I do have all sorts of drawings even a few harness drawings. I also know the team that built all of the electrical part of the vehicle and indeed I have built prototype Land Rover vehicles but what I lack is the experance of those people who have had these kind of problems in a time served vehicle. Freshly made vehicles are easy to work upon but then they do not have the grime and poor connections the my 2003 D2 is exhibiting. Also I have, apart from my own vehicle, never worked on any D2 vehicles! Hence I am here looking for that dept of knowledge that is out there. I have not tried drawing ALL the fuses but perhaps I should. I did pull the Air Sus link and the quiescent load dropped to 50/49mA or less, but I could not repeat that drop; most frustrating.
I will try and isolate all the wires that would have been cut, disconnected or modified when the body was lifted off. I will change my approach and take the positive lead instead of measuring the negative line. That way I can look the starter lead which has no fuse...
 
Neptune1922 said:
Thanks for reading and putting forward a possible answer, I may resort to connecting each circuit one at a time...
I do have all sorts of drawings even a few harness drawings. I also know the team that built all of the electrical part of the vehicle and indeed I have built prototype Land Rover vehicles but what I lack is the experance of those people who have had these kind of problems in a time served vehicle. Freshly made vehicles are easy to work upon but then they do not have the grime and poor connections the my 2003 D2 is exhibiting. Also I have, apart from my own vehicle, never worked on any D2 vehicles! Hence I am here looking for that dept of knowledge that is out there. I have not tried drawing ALL the fuses but perhaps I should. I did pull the Air Sus link and the quiescent load dropped to 50/49mA or less, but I could not repeat that drop; most frustrating.
I will try and isolate all the wires that would have been cut, disconnected or modified when the body was lifted off. I will change my approach and take the positive lead instead of measuring the negative line. That way I can look the starter lead which has no fuse...
Click to expand...
The two fuseboxes are prone to corrosion and this is bad as it goes beyond where you would think it could simply be cleaned up.
Many people simply replace them.
 
Neptune1922 said:
On the 6th of October I reinsured my D1. On the 9th the LHR shock absorber bracket fell off the chassis; vehicle off the road! I therefore brought forward my intention to change the chassis. Sixty days later, after a faultless start, I drove it onto a transporter. I picked my shiny D2 up on Feb 1st. Since then I have had battery problems. The alternator was outputting 14.63V at 2k rpm with the heated seats, front and rear heated screens switched on as a load. When I worked in the Land Rover service, 45 years ago, the acceptable readings would have been 13.6V to 14.2V. I replaced the alternator and Battery. I now have about 400mA quiescent drain 10 minuets after locking the vehicle. I have removed each fuse, link and relay one at a time and still have this very high current drain. The battery is 110Ah and will support some drain but 400mA is much too high. Also a "Nanocom' I purchased when I had an engine ECU problem 20 months ago does not want to operate.
Three questions:-
1/ What is the acceptable quiescent drain on a modern(?) vehicle like my D2?
2/ Does the Nanocom have an internal battery that I should have charged? How can I revive it?
3/ When I picked up the vehicle the air suspension did not seem 'right' to me. I did need to replace the 30A link but it still seems 'not right'. Prior to the chassis change I replaced the two hight sensors and set the hight with my Nanocom; about 20 months ago. Since then, until the chassis change, I have had absolutely no problems with the air suspension... Currently is seems a bit too high to me! Has anyone got any thoughts?
Hope to hear from you soon.
Click to expand...
1/ Is 10mins long enough for everything to settle down? Have you tried after 30mins or even 1 hour. I dont know for certain but 50mA would seem reasonable to me. I may check my D2 tomorrow if I get a moment but have you disconnected the alternator before testing in case its that?
2/ No internal battery as far as i know. I just plug it in and it starts. There is usually plenty of advice on the nanocom site but sounds like the power feed is dead / fuse gone if its not lighting up.
3/ Never had air suspension so cant help there.
 
I do know that the 38A Range Rover took 1 minuets to go to sleep as I had to watch one such vehicle go to sleep! The 38A RR sleeps in steps from about 20A, took 2 or 3 seconds to drop to a few amps, (it was nearly 30 years ago), but the last few steps were only a few mA until 40mA was the steady state. My D2 goes from 17+A on door lock to 700mA then steps down to 500mA and sometimes down to 390ma which is about as low as it goes. The inconsistency make me think it could be a ECU in the process of falling over. However the concept of a corroded Fuse Box never came into my mind. Time for some contact cleaned and or a full dismantle...
I have not found any fuses, apart from the 30A Air Suspension link, broken. I have a plan to look at the diagnostic socket. From memory pin 4 and 16 are negative but not sure about the positive.
 
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