raywin · Apr 1, 2020

Alistair Davidson said:
Ok thanks for all that. Just ordered DTI guage. Can always sell it on ebay once im done.

These days they are not so expensive, if you want you can sell it on, or keep it for other jobs.
When you replace the head follow the tightening sequence carefully, and be sure you have some pins to set up the timing accurately, turn over the engine at least 4 revolutions using the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to be sure all is ok before any attempt to start it.

Alistair Davidson · Apr 11, 2020

Spigot bush! Did you remove yours? Quite hard to tell if mine is worn at all. was an auto trans... would input shaft still have gone into end of crank?
Looks fairly fiddly to get out without a massive tap.

jamesmartin · Apr 11, 2020

Alistair Davidson said:
Spigot bush! Did you remove yours? Quite hard to tell if mine is worn at all. was an auto trans... would input shaft still have gone into end of crank?
Looks fairly fiddly to get out without a massive tap.

autos dont have a spigot bush

Alistair Davidson · Apr 11, 2020

good stuff wont have to worry about getting it out then! Stuck overseas for this lovely part of world history...sadly not with my crankshaft. Thanks

Alistair Davidson · Apr 14, 2020

What are opinions on here for using engine assembly grease? Workshop manual says just engine oil. Seems to me as its going to be a while before the rebuild gets used/started up assembly grease would be a better idea.

windy81 · Apr 14, 2020

im no engine builder but the assembly grease seems likes a sales thingy to me which prays on the insecurity of the engine builder.

raywin · Apr 14, 2020

Alistair Davidson said:
What are opinions on here for using engine assembly grease? Workshop manual says just engine oil. Seems to me as its going to be a while before the rebuild gets used/started up assembly grease would be a better idea.

I've never used grease on an engine assembly I would have concern that it may wash into oilways and restrict flow when the engine starts up, probably would not be a huge problem but wouldn't want a risk.
I used assembly oil which is a thick sticky substance I wiped it onto all bearing surfaces.
The cylinder bores were wiped with engine oil and pistons and rings were given a good coating, but if I was not going to start it for several months I would not use synthetic oil because it can absorb moisture and is not a good corrosion protector.

Alistair Davidson · Aug 29, 2020

About to set about removing the crankshaft. Book says slave bolts required to split the bearing shell from the block. Dont have these. Possible without?

Al2O3 · Aug 29, 2020

Alistair Davidson said:
About to set about removing the crankshaft. Book says slave bolts required to split the bearing shell from the block. Dont have these. Possible without?

No idea, but my 300TDi shells just lifted off.

raywin · Aug 29, 2020

Alistair Davidson said:
About to set about removing the crankshaft. Book says slave bolts required to split the bearing shell from the block. Dont have these. Possible without?

Didn't use any on my strip down, back them all off bit at a time then just lift the bearing caps, they are numbered so not easy to mix up, but be sure to put them back the right way.
A digital camera is a big help on a job like this take loads of snaps, I did mine over a long period and it was handy to look up the photos, but even then I wish I had taken more.

Al2O3 · Aug 29, 2020

raywin said:
Didn't use any on my strip down, back them all off bit at a time then just lift the bearing caps, they are numbered so not easy to mix up, but be sure to put them back the right way.
A digital camera is a big help on a job like this take loads of snaps, I did mine over a long period and it was handy to look up the photos, but even then I wish I had taken more.

You can never take too many pictures on a rebuild. Engine, full body, gearbox or whatever. If you’re doing it for the first time that is!

Alistair Davidson · Aug 29, 2020

Thanks guys. Helpful as ever

Alistair Davidson · Aug 30, 2020

Ok cranks out. Went fine. had to re use the stiffener plate bolts to help pull the bearing caps off.
Anyone had trouble taking out the squirt jets? Thought it would be a 2 min job...mine are stuck tight in there...kinda started to strip the first bolt so I stopped.
Typical the crank removal turns out no bother then the 5 easy to reach bolts to finish the disassembly ends up being the tricky task

raywin · Aug 30, 2020

Alistair Davidson said:
Ok cranks out. Went fine. had to re use the stiffener plate bolts to help pull the bearing caps off.
Anyone had trouble taking out the squirt jets? Thought it would be a 2 min job...mine are stuck tight in there...kinda started to strip the first bolt so I stopped.
Typical the crank removal turns out no bother then the 5 easy to reach bolts to finish the disassembly ends up being the tricky task

Take care I think they are fitted with locktite, I have read online that people have sheared them off and it's a pain to repair them, try to test them and see that they are not blocked, if so maybe leave them in, be sure the one which started to strip is ok dont want it to break off when the engine is running.

Bennehboy · Aug 30, 2020

I had the same trouble with the squirt jets, so I just blew them out and left them in place - I taped them over when I honed the bores.

Alistair Davidson · Aug 30, 2020

glad to hear im not the only one. Ill just have to hope the machine shop is ok with honing with them still in.
Thanks

Alistair Davidson · Aug 30, 2020

Bennehboy said:
I had the same trouble with the squirt jets, so I just blew them out and left them in place - I taped them over when I honed the bores.

What did you do for the hone? I just want to do a light one to give the new rings something to 'mate' with. What grit/pattern etc did you use?

Bennehboy · Aug 30, 2020

I used a flexhone, gave it 3 or 4 passes per cylinder using ATF as lube. I can look in the shed to get the size of it tomorrow - it cost ~ 75 quid though so aint cheap.

Alistair Davidson · Aug 31, 2020

Sounds good. ill stay tuned

Bennehboy · Aug 31, 2020

3.5", 120 grit, Silicon Carbide. I just noticed you're in Seattle, have you got a TD5 over there? Imported retrofit?

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