raywin said:
Its been a bit off for some time and never sounded smooth to me like one cylinder was out of sync with the other 4 but oddly enough the last month or so was sounding better, I was also suspecting the injectors as it smokes when cold, and they told me it was high on emission at the last MOT, but that cam was always on my mind, I would have done it sooner if I used it more.
The gear box and transfer box is not only a heavy cumbersome thing but the weight is so badly distributed that it is an accident waiting to happen,
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Aye with a Cam like that I'd expect some rough running! ;)

My TD5 seems ok but you have to bring it up the rev range a bit to get the power out of it.

The same for all TD5's I noticed!

I tend to give my diesels an italian tune up before the MOT always helps! ;)

The gearbox is unbalanced! makes dropping it off interesting..

best invest in a small tranny jack tbh
 
raywin said:
I retired a year ago and this sort of thing is not every day, also the TD5 is such a brute, I remember doing a moggy 1000 clutch and laying under the car then lifting the gear box onto a block and holding it up to the engine, would not like to meet the man who could do stuff like that on a TD5,.
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Noit a TD5 gearbox but I am sure he would still have a go. Not sure why he wants to risk it.
 
Taking it steady today, My plan is to get an order together for all the bits I need by Friday, then spend the weekend cleaning and preping things then hope to start moving forward by Monday. I was supprised to see how good the bores were after 120 K miles I may re think the new rings and hone story, but I think it would be wise to put in new bottom end shells while its down.

So I wanted to check the piston protrusion and bore before I strip it down.
The white level has a base like a Vee block so its good for this clean the block and piston and put the level accross, then set the clock to zero ( making sure its not at the end of its stroke).
Measured from 0.39 mm to 0.45 mm over the five pistons, allowing for slight measuring error that seems to be not too bad, would not expect a bent conrod there, and two hole gasket should be OK ( 0.351 to 0.5).



IMG_0520.JPG


I decided to clean up that scabby block before I remove the sump, looking to paint it before it goes back


IMG_0522.JPG


Then I took off the sump, good news the oil pump bolt is sound ( picture is a bit blurred)
Taking a day off tomorrow taking my grandson to the steam railway.

IMG_0524.JPG
 
Are you doing the main bearings etc? Don’t forget the crank thrust bearings.
Best to do everything you can while you’ve got it stripped. No point having to do bearings in another 20k miles.

I just rebuilt mine with new pistons and rings, well, everything really. It runs perfectly and I hope never to fiddle with it again!

Also check the flatness of the block with a straight edge and a light behind it.
 
It’s hard once you get going not to check everything, good idea to check crank end play before you strip it , might be ok
 
Alpinejim said:
Are you doing the main bearings etc? Don’t forget the crank thrust bearings.
Best to do everything you can while you’ve got it stripped. No point having to do bearings in another 20k miles.

I just rebuilt mine with new pistons and rings, well, everything really. It runs perfectly and I hope never to fiddle with it again!

Also check the flatness of the block with a straight edge and a light behind it.
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I certainly intend to do the bottom end shells and thrust now I am in this deep, never want to do this again , but not 100% sure about rings and hone need to make some more checks first. Also happy to tidy up so many things and install the new loom, as you say want to start driving it instead of mending it.
 
My 200tdi original honing marks were there as yours , I removed rings put them in bores and checked gaps , measured bores all in spec so decided to keep rings and not bother re honing
As James Martin advised on mine worst condition on bearings will be bottom of mains and top of con rod piston shell so if bottom mains look good top half should be better ,if like 200tdi they can be changed with crank in just pushing them round depends how much you want to dismantle
 
steve2286w said:
My 200tdi original honing marks were there as yours , I removed rings put them in bores and checked gaps , measured bores all in spec so decided to keep rings and not bother re honing
As James Martin advised on mine worst condition on bearings will be bottom of mains and top of con rod piston shell so if bottom mains look good top half should be better ,if like 200tdi they can be changed with crank in just pushing them round depends how much you want to dismantle
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I'm in pretty deep now so I'm not worrying about stripping further, only thing that concerns me is taking out the pistons and putting them back for nothing, on Thursday hope to measure the bores and see how they are. Big end and main shells are not expensive so I would do them anyway.
 
The shells I got from Turners were made by KIngs seemed reasonable, you can prob change big ends with pistons still in block but won’t be able to check rings not stuck/ broke if you have the ring compressor makes getting them back in easy , if bearings good then journals prob fine too , very little wear on mine (115k)
 
The TD5 has a cast aluminium rocker cover. Although it is a thin-walled casting it can bear weight, certainly round the edges. If it's resting on softwood blocks it should be OK. It's at least as strong as the sump. Of course an engine stand is the best option.

If that's my old wiring loom you're talking about Ray, don't trust it! It was taken off, as you know because it's got some intermittent faults. I think my new one was from one of the aftermarket wiring loom suppliers like Autosparks and was about £300 or so.

I'll be watching this with interest.
 
Brown said:
The TD5 has a cast aluminium rocker cover. Although it is a thin-walled casting it can bear weight, certainly round the edges. If it's resting on softwood blocks it should be OK. It's at least as strong as the sump. Of course an engine stand is the best option.

If that's my old wiring loom you're talking about Ray, don't trust it! It was taken off, as you know because it's got some intermittent faults. I think my new one was from one of the aftermarket wiring loom suppliers like Autosparks and was about £300 or so.

I'll be watching this with interest.
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Hi Brian, No I still have your old loom, but I bought one from Shiffty in anticipation of this rebuild, its been sitting about for a while and now I intend to fit it.
The original loom has been botched on the crank sensor lead, and had scotch locks on the injector leads which I have removed, so I hope this will help things. I remember reading that you said the new loom seems to make it run better maybe the signals are much cleaner.
 
raywin said:
Hi Brian, No I still have your old loom, but I bought one from Shiffty in anticipation of this rebuild, its been sitting about for a while and now I intend to fit it.
The original loom has been botched on the crank sensor lead, and had scotch locks on the injector leads which I have removed, so I hope this will help things. I remember reading that you said the new loom seems to make it run better maybe the signals are much cleaner.
Click to expand...

Oh good, sounds like you've got a much better one to go on.

Looking good so far. Your usual meticulous standards are clearly being applied!
 
raywin said:
I'm in pretty deep now so I'm not worrying about stripping further, only thing that concerns me is taking out the pistons and putting them back for nothing, on Thursday hope to measure the bores and see how they are. Big end and main shells are not expensive so I would do them anyway.
Click to expand...
Taking the pistons out is the easy with a ring compressor. If I were you I'd take them out to check, just for peace of mind. When I took mine out one of the rings was in half. Having said that, my engine had had a brief run away, but I don't know if that caused it to break.
If all is well then I would consider how many miles per year I was going to do. Your honing marks look very good, so if you're going to do 5K miles a year I'd just put it back together without honing. If you hone you'll probably need to go up a piston and ring size.
If I was changing the bearing shells, I'd change all of them, not just bottom or tops. It means a bit more work with the main crank bearings.
 
Brown said:
The TD5 has a cast aluminium rocker cover. Although it is a thin-walled casting it can bear weight, certainly round the edges. If it's resting on softwood blocks it should be OK. It's at least as strong as the sump. Of course an engine stand is the best option.
.
Click to expand...

Thats handy to know. I was thinking of replacing ther rear crankshaft seal when I get another engine. Mainly because I have one and the clutch off the old engine is new ( this year ). I won't be able to get to it on an engine stand, but I might take most of the weight on the engine hoist and rest it on soft wood blocks. I have a spare rocker cover from the old engine. Thanks.
 
Well the steam railway was very nice, but could not resist having a dabble.
I took off the lower engine stiffener and found something which may justify the whole project, the oil pump bold did not have any locking compound on it !!!
Took off one main bearing cap and No 5 big end cap

IMG_0529.JPG

They dont look very worn ( I know the conrod shell is loaded in the top half ) but I started to wonder ??? Have they been in there long ?

IMG_0526.JPG

Look at the conrod cap it is marked up, as were the other 4, don’t know if they would do this on the assembly line I suspect not, but maybe someone knows.

When I bought this Landy it has suffered a head failure (injector pocket I suspect) I was told about this and that the head had been replaced with one of the better aftermarket ones, I suspect that more damage may have been done and the whole lump had been re built.

I was in a bit of a quandary about just re assembling the whole thing, but having thought it through I decided it is probably best to go the whole hog now, a set of shells is about £50 and I certainly never want to take the engine out again so tomorrow I may strip out all of the pistons and take out the crank check out the bores, check the rings and pistons, lets go the last few yards and hope all goes well.
 
Shells look good, take care if you’re removing the rings not to snap them, my shells were through to copper, I don’t think my oil pump bolts had threadlock on them but they were tight and refitted with it. If like mine with hone marks showing the bores will be in spec too fingers crossed
 
The big end bearing looks to have marks on the right hand side, but may be cleaning fluid drops or something. Hard to tell on a picture. My con rods and big ends were stamped to show the pair. Don't know if tippex was OEM spec :eek: You never know with LR though :rolleyes:
 
Just checked the ones I took out of the old engine and they were marked.
Conrod.jpg

We have had car since October 2007 and has had no engine work done. I haven't checked but perhaps they are numbered one to five in the factory on both halves.
 
brianconwy said:
Just checked the ones I took out of the old engine and they were marked.
View attachment 187577
We have had car since October 2007 and has had no engine work done. I haven't checked but perhaps they are numbered one to five in the factory on both halves.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your picture, the marking looks very similar to what I see, makes me think they may have been marked up in the factory.
One thing I could not link together would be someone re building the engine and not putting a threadlock bolt in the oil pump, the fault is well known to TD5 owners.
 
Just checked the piston that broke on mine and it is marked up one for cylinder 1 ( assuming cylinder 1 is at the front ).
 
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