S

sprie

Active Member
I have spent 1 ½ hours cutting this out from my scrapped chassis and finally pressing it out from the last remaining pieces. It does still turn, but only with a fair amount of pressure.

My guess is that the oil leaked out from this many years ago, and it has been dry inside ever since.

Given my tools and my lack of experience, I don’t want to open it up (springs etc). So, I can either
  1. Scrap it and buy a new one
  2. Clean up the outside, flush it through with oil and see if it gets any better.
Given the state of it, does it look like it is worth trying to save it, or should I just get a new one and put that in my replacement chassis?
 

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What are the lower splines like?

Britpart relays have been associated with shafts twisting. Genuine shafts are still available. Not sure about complete genuine relays.

Rebuilding isn't massively difficult, they seldom explode on disassembly, especially if rusty. Bear in mind that they shouldn't be easy to turn by hand!
 
I enjoyed rebuilding mine. It wasn't as far gone as your one but I did like being able to do one of those jobs that most people say you would be stupid to tackle. I made a tool to compress the spring back in and even then it was squeaky bum time because it can be dangerous. In case it helps here's a link to my go at it. Might inspire you or just completely put you off. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/steves-unexpected-series-3-rebuild.292955/page-28
 
LincolnSteve said:
I enjoyed rebuilding mine. It wasn't as far gone as your one but I did like being able to do one of those jobs that most people say you would be stupid to tackle. I made a tool to compress the spring back in and even then it was squeaky bum time because it can be dangerous. In case it helps here's a link to my go at it. Might inspire you or just completely put you off. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/steves-unexpected-series-3-rebuild.292955/page-28
Click to expand...
inspire and put off simultaneously. I am tempted to do a rebuild, but I have so much else to rebuild, i might leave it as is
 
Wildefalcon said:
What are the lower splines like?

Britpart relays have been associated with shafts twisting. Genuine shafts are still available. Not sure about complete genuine relays.

Rebuilding isn't massively difficult, they seldom explode on disassembly, especially if rusty. Bear in mind that they shouldn't be easy to turn by hand!
Click to expand...
splines are not as good as new, but they look OK, and consistent. I think the arms fit on so snuggly, it should be fine
 
I have been adding some oil with a syringe, a bit at a time, and working it into the relay. It was very very tight but has eased.

I don’t have luggage scales. I tried to use a torque wrench to measure it but I couldn't get that to work, so I have arrived at this method – string, connected to some weights.

At the moment, it holds 24lbs, but if I nudge the string a bit, the arm turns. Given the Heath Robinson approach, I am guessing it is not too far off. I will continue to fill with oil and exercise it, and hopefully it will ease just a little bit more, and I will be able to put it in the new chassis (after a good clean and a good coat of grease and maybe some fettling).
 

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LincolnSteve said:
Ingenious set up. Nice one.
Click to expand...
I am getting some luggage scales later today. as well as measuring the relay, I need them for rebuilding the swivel housings.

I have now refilled the relay with oil from the top till it takes no more, but when I look up the screw holes underneath, there is no sign of oil (despite lots of agitation of the steering arm). Also, when I place the relay on its side to clean off the rust, oil is leaking out from the seal around the top.

If I remove the top plate to get access to the seal, I presume I am at risk of the spring exploding out the top at me i.e. is it correct that to replace the oil seal, you have to do a complete disassembly?
 
No, you’ll be ok. Have a look at the pictures of mine again. There’s a photo of the relay in a vice with one end cap off and nothing flies to pieces. Because the shaft has the cone shaped bits and the bushes are corresponding cones they will contain the spring. You can take both ends off and it still won’t budge until the shaft moves far enough to free one pair of bushes then you’d better duck. This lets you replace the seals. If you are taking it completely to pieces you don’t remove both ends. Just one then at least you know which is going to be the dangerous end. Then with something over the open end to catch the spring you tap the shaft out. To be honest when my spring did fly out it was a bit of an anticlimax. Follow the workshop manual to the letter and you can’t go wrong. The proper manual though not the Haynes book of lies.
 
Give it ti time and the oil well leak out of the bottom!
As you have it out, you would be mad to not rebuild/reseal it.
 
I have to agree with Steve, its not that difficult a job and the genuine shafts, bushes and seals are all available if you look around.
It is one of those jobs that everyone says should not be attempted but in reality with a **** off big vice or better a press and a bit of careful thought its wasn't that hard. You can see pics of mine being done on my build thread as well.
 
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