biggeeeee
Retired - Living the dream
Nope they are the same, rubbish but then again no-one nicks them.
jbenekeorr
Active Member
Thanks guys...
I did wonder about splitting the housings on some 300 lights and blacking the outside, but that would just be vain
Think I'd do that with the orange indicators if I do go TD5 on the headlights though!
I may have done this :lol:
Split my 300 lights and painted. Would have been easier to get TD5 ones though.
jbenekeorr
Active Member
It's some sort of sealant, warm them carefully and they'll come apart. You can seal them back up with silicone.
You can't use primer unless it's black as it shows through the glass!
I used black aerosol inside and black Hammerite on the outside (round the outer rim)
No issues in 6 months. Just make sure you seal them properly or they'll fog up!
Here's a recent pic, still happy with my workmanship!
So not true, my 200Tdi lights are bloody brilliant.
If you want brighter head lights then try fitting relays to them, electric contacts corrode over time and oxidize, any joints can do the same and over time the lights gradually loose the strength of power getting to them, I know that the old 1985 RRC ended up with only 10.5V at the bulb where the then 20yr old wiring was shot and corroded.
Now I have no less than full alternator output at the bulbs, around 13.6V
Very pleased with this little job and although it took me ages to do I think that I did a good job
You can see the nice little bracket that I made to mount the relays onto, even painted it with 3 coats of paint too
As I forgot to take my pictures and had completed the other side I was sure to get some progress shots of the drivers side.
On this side you can see I have opened up the split conduit and threaded some new wires through to connect to the new relays, but why?
Simply because I had the wiring still from my 300Tdi shape V8 and the wires to the head lamps are thicker on the later model, so to me it made sense that as I was ensuring the highest possible currents going to the lamps I needed to make sure the cables were strong enough to handle the loads and also because the newer connectors were in much better condition too.
As there is no bracket to mount them to this side I will mount the bracket onto the inner wing panel at the back here and it will still look very tidy compared to what it was.
There are future plans afoot that will most likely see a whole new under bonnet fuse board and relay board, but this is proficient enough to give me the best light output for normal driving.
marccleave
Active Member
Relaying the headlights also takes the strain off the main/dip beam switch.
And for people who don't fancy wiring themselves, theres even a nice premade loom.
Boomslang Performance Headlight Loom
And for people who don't fancy wiring themselves, theres even a nice premade loom.
Boomslang Performance Headlight Loom
Relaying the headlights also takes the strain off the main/dip beam switch.
And for people who don't fancy wiring themselves, theres even a nice premade loom.
Boomslang Performance Headlight Loom
That one from Paddocks is a good buy but beware cheap sh!t on ebay from China, the relays work the first few times and pack up, the wires are barely crimped into the terminals and basically the cables are only just good enough.
