Ah right. It's possible I am wrong and it was after I plugged it back in, I did several runs in a few minutes so I may have it the wrong way around.
thanks everyone
 
MJI said:
The ECU noticed lack of maf when I pressed the throttle
Click to expand...
If the MAF went to 0 while you pressed the throttle hard doesnt mean that the MAF is not working, it's the so called "MAF cut-out" which is for turbocharger overspeed protection and can have many other causes than
MJI said:
The hiccup is the ECU realising that the MAF is not working, I have had it as well.
Click to expand...
 
sierrafery said:
If the MAF went to 0 while you pressed the throttle hard doesnt mean that the MAF is not working, it's the so called "MAF cut-out" which is for turbocharger overspeed protection and can have many other causes than
Click to expand...

I was testing mine unplugged and off idle it was terrible for first throttle press, pkug back in OK
 
Well I did go to DynaChips for tea! Mushy peas were stonkin good!

I must find myself a cheap way to read from OBD port. Don't suppose they come up for sale very often on here?

Air Con question - The system was properly regassed and leak tested. but it's not blowing cold. Presuming it's a new compressor, but before I look for a recon/used one on fleabay, i thought I would mention it in case any of you brainboxes have any comments?!
thanks - And JohnLad - Phone call today, wheels coming this evening. Bloody superb service this courier/man with van.
 
oh and PS, I removed my ECU for remapping. I know it's normal to have oil in the contacts, but there was a good teaspoon to teaspoon and a half in there, black oil. I take it that's still nothing to worry about?
 
john snoo said:
oh and PS, I removed my ECU for remapping. I know it's normal to have oil in the contacts, but there was a good teaspoon to teaspoon and a half in there, black oil. I take it that's still nothing to worry about?
Click to expand...
you need to change the injector loom about 30 quid, it can give poor running
 
Well that's kinda interesting, thanks. So that COULD be something to do with why it's running a bit more sluggish than most D2s? Will look up how to do that, hopefully it's not beyond my meagre skills!
 
sierrafery said:
I say again, if the MAF is fubar the engine runs much beter with it unplugged... as about what happened with that intermittent power gain migh be a sticking wasegate, watch from minute 1.30 and do that but spray some lubricant to the shaft at the turbo side

Click to expand...


By the way, I checked and mine is just like in the video. Couldn't move it without mold grips, but it moved freely albeit very stiff to move. I put a bit of grease around both ends anyway. Thanks
 
As long as the ECU red plug is full of oil dont expect too much from your engine untill you replace the injector loom...as about the aircon compressor, was the temp setting lower than the ambient temperature and inside the vehicle ?... if not the compressor won't kick in.... also make sure that ''ECON'' is not displayed on the top of the LCD, would be good for you to download a workshop manual and read about the system's operation mode.
 
Thanks, I should get a Haynes manual in post tomorrow. I will also have a read of the handbook which I think is in the glovebox. yes the temp was low, but can't say for certain re econ mode, although I am pretty sure it wasn't on. I will go test it all, but if it is still warm, would you agree that's a compressor replacement needed?
thanks
 
john snoo said:
would you agree that's a compressor replacement needed?
Click to expand...
Depends if the clutch engages or not, check fuse F6 and if it's good remove relay R11 and make a bridge with a wire across cavities where terminals 30 - 86 of the relay fit in(the numbers should be marked near the legs)... if you hear/see the cluch engaging let it idle and see then if you get cold air

bridge 3 - 5
ACE relay.jpg
 
Last edited:
Crikey you know your stuff, you obviously don't know me very well though :D
That picture looks like some new world order logo, I will take some time to try and understand what you mean about bridging etc. Sounds like excellent advice, now for me to put it to use! thanks very much!
 
PS, I take it that this advice is for IF the clutch doesn't engage? So if it does engage then the electrical stuff isn't needed, just a new compressor?
My ECU is just being returned from DynaChip (yay!) so I will try listening the clutch once I fit the ECU back in, tomorrow hopefully
 
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