Benny_Boy

Benny_Boy

Active Member
I'm about to pull the front diff out of my 1988 110 beastie so I can drill out a snapped bolt from one of the diff guard attachment holes before re inserting the unit. I've watched the various YouTube videos on doing this and it doesn't seem too complicated, but any tips, tricks or advice on doing this job?

Obviously I'll have the CVs, etc out. Whilst I'm not aware of any issues with the drive-train down stream of the diff any suggested things to look out for that could point to impending replacement needs?

One matter I'm not sure on: a while back I checked the diff oil levels and noticed grey 'sludge' in the oil. Months before this I'd been doing some work that, long story short, resulted in some of the CV grease getting past the wiper gasket onto the floor, so I topped it up with one-shot. I put the sludge in the diff oil down to this same grease getting into the diff/half-shaft compartment. It that plausible and if so is there a seal that separates the CV one-shot grease from the diff oil? Or is the sludge just really old crud that needs removing? In either case I'm sure it shouldn't be in there!

Ta, Ben
 
grey sludge could just be where small amounts of grime and water have mixed with the oil. I would not have expected to notice one shot when mixed with the oil.
Depending on how quickly you want to do the job the tip I would give you is to not dismantle the hubs/swivels to remove the shafts and instead just undo the swivel ball from the axle tube and pull the whole unit out enough to free the diff. Although not technically the "proper" way to do it and does not allow you to inspect everything else it will save you hours of stripping and rebuild time. Other than that is is just a straight forward unbolt the diff and pull it out job! Just be carful when it is out to keep it clean and or "wash" it before refitting. Depending on how successful you are at keeping it clean it may be worth and oil change fairly early after refitting it just to make sure anything that got out it while out has been flushed though.
 
Benny_Boy said:
I'm about to pull the front diff out of my 1988 110 beastie so I can drill out a snapped bolt from one of the diff guard attachment holes before re inserting the unit. I've watched the various YouTube videos on doing this and it doesn't seem too complicated, but any tips, tricks or advice on doing this job?

Obviously I'll have the CVs, etc out. Whilst I'm not aware of any issues with the drive-train down stream of the diff any suggested things to look out for that could point to impending replacement needs?

One matter I'm not sure on: a while back I checked the diff oil levels and noticed grey 'sludge' in the oil. Months before this I'd been doing some work that, long story short, resulted in some of the CV grease getting past the wiper gasket onto the floor, so I topped it up with one-shot. I put the sludge in the diff oil down to this same grease getting into the diff/half-shaft compartment. It that plausible and if so is there a seal that separates the CV one-shot grease from the diff oil? Or is the sludge just really old crud that needs removing? In either case I'm sure it shouldn't be in there!

Ta, Ben
Click to expand...

To save a lot of disassembling, just unbolt the swivel from the end of the axle case and pull the whole lot out. If your bolts are rusty and knackered don't bother. It is heavy to do it like this but it saves a lot of time if the bolts comply. Tip, pre-soak them in penetrating oil for a few days before - you could even have some heat handy to cook them up a bit.

You will need to get the calipers and things out the way but it saves you taking the lot to pieces and will save you replacing seals and gaskets that are probably fine - if other things need done then fair enough it is worth the strip down.
 
The above is the way I do the job, do not even remove the caliper or brake pipe just pull the unit out enough to free shaft from diff [unless new ball housing to case gasket is needed] The whole unit is heavy and it can be sporting to get splines lined up on the way back, proping it on a trolly jack helps
 
tottot said:
The above is the way I do the job, do not even remove the caliper or brake pipe just pull the unit out enough to free shaft from diff [unless new ball housing to case gasket is needed] The whole unit is heavy and it can be sporting to get splines lined up on the way back, proping it on a trolly jack helps
Click to expand...

Right enough, I was forgetting that whole aim of this exercise was to extract the diff, not the hub assembly, however, I suspect a gasket will be needed - I've never reused a gasket on a mating like this.
 
Paper gasket's I put back with a smear of grease on them. There is a good chance that the next time item is opened the gasket remains good.
 
Thanks for the tips chaps. I ended up taking the hub assemblies apart anyway. I decided it was worth taking a look at the CVs and splines for wear since I'd never been into these bits before.

The diff came out without any major issues. I do have one concern though. On inspection I found little bits of hard blue plastic on the inside around the mating face, especially around the pillars that support the gear assemblies. Sorry, I don't know their proper name. The larger bits I found were around 2mm wide, 5mm long and flat in cross section. They looked like they'd been part of singing bigger There was lots of smaller bits like coarse sand. My thoughts are it's from some previous sealing compound like hylomar blue. I'm not aware of anything in the diff assembly this might have come from. Any thoughts?
 
The rotating center is known as the diff carrier. No plastic parts, so as you say probably gone off sealant.
 
Right, next bit. Need some advise on wear and tear and in the principle of a picture painting a thousand words here is a video of my questions.
Also take a look at the area on the half shafts where the oil seals sit there is wear here. Another reason for replacement of the half shaft or just new seals?

 
stiff cv is likely the good one, its the back lash your looking for with wear in cvs the one with back lash is worn,but probably has a good few miles left ,half shafts splines are ok
 
How can you tell of the CV is heavy duty or not just by looking? Till now I've never seen one in person.

And is there any benefit in the heavy duty CVs if you're only doing mild green laning?
 
Last edited:
Benny_Boy said:
How can you tell of the CV to heavy duty oo not just buy looking? Till now is never seen one in person.

And is there any benefit in the heavy duty CVs oi your only doing mild green laning?
Click to expand...
size of the hole in the spider half shaft fits in to hd/cv is a larger diameter ,std cvs are fine your weak spot is the 10 spline end but thats fine too
 
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