J

JAO10

New Member
Hi all

It’s my first time posting on here and I would appreciate any help people can offer.

I’m about to buy a good condition 2008 110 XS, 100k miles. It’s been owned by one person since new and seems to have a great dealer service history, receipts and has clearly been cared for. It hasn’t been modded in any way. Obviously this comes with a cost though (£23k).

First question I guess is am I overpaying?

Second question is more general but what advice would you give a first time over with a car as above?

Thanks
 
JAO10 said:
Hi all

It’s my first time posting on here and I would appreciate any help people can offer.

I’m about to buy a good condition 2008 110 XS, 100k miles. It’s been owned by one person since new and seems to have a great dealer service history, receipts and has clearly been cared for. It hasn’t been modded in any way. Obviously this comes with a cost though (£23k).

First question I guess is am I overpaying?

Second question is more general but what advice would you give a first time over with a car as above?

Thanks
Click to expand...

An answer to that would depend on what you know about Landy 110's, and how good you are with spanners ?

Have you had an independent check done on the vehicle ? Not a valuation thingy, a go-over by the AA or RAC for a 'what's-wrong-with-it' check. A cursory trawl through the on-line MOT history will show if anything has been left for a few years before being fixed and if and re-calls have been done.
 
JAO10 said:
Hi all

It’s my first time posting on here and I would appreciate any help people can offer.

I’m about to buy a good condition 2008 110 XS, 100k miles. It’s been owned by one person since new and seems to have a great dealer service history, receipts and has clearly been cared for. It hasn’t been modded in any way. Obviously this comes with a cost though (£23k).

First question I guess is am I overpaying?

Second question is more general but what advice would you give a first time over with a car as above?

Thanks
Click to expand...

If you do not know Defenders get it thoroughly checked by someone who does. Ideally a specialist or the AA/RAC. A friend recently bought a 2012 MY for the same price and he's already had to plough in another £6.5k to sort out all the problems inherited. He's not at all technical so has to pay others to do the work. If you're good with spanners you'll be fine but remember Defenders are most likely the heaviest vehicle you're likely to have worked on...everything is three times the size/weight of other older/classic cars so work not just safe, but very safely. Good luck with purchase...

ps you'll need to invest in at least 5x 10mm spanners ;)
 
As the above posts say, if you are not familiar with these vehicles, get someone who does know them to have a look.
That is quite an investment of cash for what is essentially a working vehicle. Be prepared for garage costs if you are not handy with spanners!
They are a fantastic vehicle if you treat them with sympathy and respect. Keep on top of the maintenance and it will give good service.
 
If you have a garage you can use, it helps no end with maintenance.

I don't, and I think it means almost every job I do on the car takes three times as long, as it is now weather and light dependent
 
Pictures help on here, we like pictures.

Here's an example 2008 110 XS (with lots of pics).
Is your one 'similar' to this ?
https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/2008-land-rover-defender-110-xs-1

This one has, what I would call, a rusty, soon to be rotting, chassis.
It's describes as 'light surface rust' but it's obviously never been treated and is desperately in need of a good rub down and some Tannic acid, before the rot really sets in.
A 2008 car is 18 years old.
The alloy panels are starting to oxidise (Some surface bubbling is also present around the front windscreen and roof) and bushes are starting to let go as did the starter motor.
And the LT230's leaking ... the rear diff looks a bit suss too.

Where abouts are you (your location hasn't been filled in) ?
Take it to a local independant garage and pay £100 for a full look-see, or knock the seller down to around the £17/18K mark and spend £5K getting it brought up to scratch.

There are a couple of really well maintained and looked after examples of the marque for sale on here, galvanised chassis and bulkhead examples that have been looked after and fettled by enthusiasts, not examples with a Transit engine to be fair (if thats what you really want) but real Defenders that will outlast the XS many times over.
 
If at that cost and age the vehicle is well maintained, then you must factor a similar cost to do the same. Look at the condition of the interior might be all fur and no knickers..
Worth checking with as mentioned above AA or RAC for peace of mind.
Why is the person selling what is a perfect and functional vehicle and how long been for sale.
As above maintenance is key are you able to handle a heavy working with your own facility.
Security security security just because it's alarmed, still doesn't mean it will not be stolen. Hense insurance will love you if you live in a postcode that's prone to stolen valuable cars.
Finally price check on parkers or similar for your type of vehicle as this gives you a guide the seller not far off or way out.
IMG_20230407_160834~3.jpg
 
A 2008 car is Fifteen years old but every thing else miktdish says is correct as is what others here advise. It can be easy to be taken in by a tidy shiny body and interior but do not fall into the trap of "its a land rover, they last forever " pitch. A well cared for one can last a long time but the old enemy rust will eat a landy as quick as just about any car.
 
If it was me and with that kind of cash, I would look for a TD5 with a galvanised chassis. If someone went to the bother of fitting the chassis, they would have looked after the rest of it in my opinion.
 
Thanks guys, added photos of chassis. I’ve had a mechanic see it who seemed happy with everything
 

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JAO10 said:
Thanks guys, added photos of chassis. I’ve had a mechanic see it who seemed happy with everything
Click to expand...
Do you have any photos of the back third of the chassis, rear cross member and bulkhead ?? It’s also worth getting into and checking both footwells. Check tubular outriggers on the chassis as well. Those diff pans look pretty caked up as well. Is it rust or dirt ??
 
Details I have picked up from pics. Fair bit of crustyness on axles and look to be on original bushes, No sign of heavy off road use. Look like new springs on the front at least but why were the shocks/dampers not renewed the same time? Off side spring pan tad rough. All the above pretty straight forward to sort. Rear axle brake pipes have been renewed but what is the black pipe/wire running across the axle. As above need to see more of chassis.
 
tottot said:
Details I have picked up from pics. Fair bit of crustyness on axles and look to be on original bushes, No sign of heavy off road use. Look like new springs on the front at least but why were the shocks/dampers not renewed the same time? Off side spring pan tad rough. All the above pretty straight forward to sort. Rear axle brake pipes have been renewed but what is the black pipe/wire running across the axle. As above need to see more of chassis.
Click to expand...
The black pipe is a bit of a mystery. Tyre deflator/inflator maybe 🤔
 
meego said:
The black pipe is a bit of a mystery. Tyre deflator/inflator maybe 🤔
Click to expand...

I think it's the breather pipe, it should go up by the A-frame ball joint, along an arm and hook up as high as possible above the chassis.
So lazy twit has just cable tied it along the axle ...
 
Hi and welcome!

Lots of good advice already. It’s been mentioned but security is a big concern. Get layers of security, so that which is visible and obvious and that which is not. Keep on top of maintenance otherwise it gets expensive.
 
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