2.0 will be non land rover i guess?2.0 diesel, real powerhouse
Had one in my 88.
No its a land rover unit, their first attempt at a high speed small diesel, wet liners and 22.5 to 1 comp ratio, 2.25 were 19.5 to 1 cr Iirc.
Fitted first to the late s1 then into early s2s, then replaced with the 2.25.
Not many even know of its existence, they were not very reliable and as most were fitted to commercial vehicles they got a hammering and then failed.
Last edited:
They also cracked heads for a hobby, the wet liner seals leaked.
The bellows thermostats are now super rare.
They were 50bhp new, so you can imagine what a 60 yr old well worn one is like to drive!
-5bhp?
Think 5 bhp is generous. Certainly low ratio box needed for going up steep hills. Resisted the idea of putting a tdi or petrol engine in it though, as I like the idea of it being original.
I put a new rear cross member and other bits and pieces on it but is generally fairly original - certainly had a good few gallons of waxoyl.
Wouldn't start after being parked up over covid. Discovered about three inches of thick gunge in the fuel tank and every pipe solid with a kind of thick grease. Replaced all of the pipes and filter, dropped the tank and cleaned that out - paid £400 odd to have the injector pump overhauled, cleaned out and reset the injectors and eventually got it started - then spent the next 2 weeks recovering from the resulting back ache. That, combined with the 3 point turn needed even to get it out of the drive (4 leaf springs and LWB make for a lousy turning circle) and lack of power steering - along with my children having long since left home - the justification for having bought it in the first place, to rescue them from school in the winter as I'm 1000' above sea level and used to get thick snow - and I've decided to get rid of it. It emits vast amounts of white smoke when it does start, I think this is down to diesel timing but the pump is at the far end of its adjustment and for reasons above I really don't want to play with it anymore.
The brakes need bleeding and I seem to remember the indicators don't work, so it will need to be trailered away - it's really reduced to 'a project' for someone else now!
I have no idea what it's worth, but it would be nice to see it go to someone who would keep it going as a Series 2 - not converted to a V8 with chunky alloys or worse still broken up for bits. I've attached a few pictures including an (aeroparts/fairey?) capstan winch (no drive dogs) canvas soft top, spare parts, manuals etc that I want to get rid of at the same time.
I put a new rear cross member and other bits and pieces on it but is generally fairly original - certainly had a good few gallons of waxoyl.
Wouldn't start after being parked up over covid. Discovered about three inches of thick gunge in the fuel tank and every pipe solid with a kind of thick grease. Replaced all of the pipes and filter, dropped the tank and cleaned that out - paid £400 odd to have the injector pump overhauled, cleaned out and reset the injectors and eventually got it started - then spent the next 2 weeks recovering from the resulting back ache. That, combined with the 3 point turn needed even to get it out of the drive (4 leaf springs and LWB make for a lousy turning circle) and lack of power steering - along with my children having long since left home - the justification for having bought it in the first place, to rescue them from school in the winter as I'm 1000' above sea level and used to get thick snow - and I've decided to get rid of it. It emits vast amounts of white smoke when it does start, I think this is down to diesel timing but the pump is at the far end of its adjustment and for reasons above I really don't want to play with it anymore.
The brakes need bleeding and I seem to remember the indicators don't work, so it will need to be trailered away - it's really reduced to 'a project' for someone else now!
I have no idea what it's worth, but it would be nice to see it go to someone who would keep it going as a Series 2 - not converted to a V8 with chunky alloys or worse still broken up for bits. I've attached a few pictures including an (aeroparts/fairey?) capstan winch (no drive dogs) canvas soft top, spare parts, manuals etc that I want to get rid of at the same time.
Attachments
Wouldn't really know what to compare it with - I suppose the fairest description would be 'original+lots of patches'. There are probably a few bad areas again - fortunately the steel is thick and the sections generous, partly why I like Landrovers.
I remember when I welded the new rear crossmember on I put 2 big stainless steel bolts through the original chassis and new section just in case/combination of my iffy welding and unknown rust areas!
A few random underside pictures and engine bay attached
I remember when I welded the new rear crossmember on I put 2 big stainless steel bolts through the original chassis and new section just in case/combination of my iffy welding and unknown rust areas!
A few random underside pictures and engine bay attached
Attachments
Under 30 mph up Bluebell hill in an empty 88, so slow the Waitrose trucks overtook me!
I think 109s are difficult to price as most dont have the room for them, or can put up with the turning circle!
I reckon that will get sold to a dealer who will refurb it and sell it on for quite a bit of dough.
You might be surprised what they are worth as parts.
Have a look on ebay at flat top rads 2.0 rads are unique to that model only, front grill, front headlamp panel, front apron panel, the engine itself.
Anything early 58/59 will have interested parties contacting you, lots of parts are unique to the early cars.
If the apron panel has rivets along its front edge then it is very rare, and again worth quite a bit, if it is just plain folded alloy it is still 100 quid and upwards if good, if front edge is rounded it is later.
Last edited:
Do you know what year it is ?
From the photos your 109” looks like it is in pretty good condition and could be back on the road with not needing too much work . You should definitely not scrap it . You say you are in the Wye Valley, would that be in Herefordshire , or further south ? There is a regular classic car auction at Brightwell’s in Leominster and your 109” would be an ideal candidate . They might even pick it up .
. To me , the Series Two is the one to go for , as they are rarer than any other Series Land Rover , because they only made them for three years . They are rarer than Series Ones . If I didn’t already own a 107” I would have been interested . But I would be risking a divorce if I even contemplated buying it .
From the photos your 109” looks like it is in pretty good condition and could be back on the road with not needing too much work . You should definitely not scrap it . You say you are in the Wye Valley, would that be in Herefordshire , or further south ? There is a regular classic car auction at Brightwell’s in Leominster and your 109” would be an ideal candidate . They might even pick it up .
. To me , the Series Two is the one to go for , as they are rarer than any other Series Land Rover , because they only made them for three years . They are rarer than Series Ones . If I didn’t already own a 107” I would have been interested . But I would be risking a divorce if I even contemplated buying it .
1958
nathanglasgow
Active Member
It's on a later Series 3 chassis and rear Salisbury axle. A lot of non original parts mixed with a few period correct 1958 stuff. What ever it took to keep it going over the years has been used I guess. Nothing wrong with that but I'd class it as a bitsa
Thanks Remora 107. I've been in touch with Brightwells and they've got back to me suggesting an average L/R with my spec would go for 5K and a good one 10K and so it will be off to their next classic car sale in early November.
Will be sad to see it go, but better than having it rot at the top of my garden!
Will be sad to see it go, but better than having it rot at the top of my garden!
I dont see 5k in that personally, as said its far from original that being said its presentable
needing a few quid spent on it to put it right. First being the running issues, if the timing is
spot on id think it had a split on the head exhaust side. (Compression test) first on the list.
If I was buying it the price would be 2k. How much are the auction fees & if it doesnt sell
how much of a hit will you take.
needing a few quid spent on it to put it right. First being the running issues, if the timing is
spot on id think it had a split on the head exhaust side. (Compression test) first on the list.
If I was buying it the price would be 2k. How much are the auction fees & if it doesnt sell
how much of a hit will you take.
