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dampsox

Active Member
2001 Freelander I TD4 120,000 miles So far, still the nicest, most useful motor I ever had, despite the odd wear-and-tear bills.

Last tyre change, fitter said the anti-roll bars need doing 'soon'.

Anyone taken this job on at home with typical amateur DIY kit (axle stands only)? Do I replace whole bars? one-at-a-time or all? can bushings only be replaced? Bit of a mystery to me.

If it's a garage job, what would be typical all-in pricing, anyone know?

t.i.a. 'sox.
 
Not enough info I'm afraid.

Need to know where the "problem" is. Could be just the drop links on each end which is a simple job but if it's the bushes on the bars it's easier to remove the crossmember for the front one. HOWEVER, this requires very good support for the body while you work underneath to remove parts of the suspension. Quick way to die if you try to shortcut the support.:eek:
 
The bar drop links can fail but are an easy diy job. The bar bushes are more involved, not because they are hard but the bolts are a sod to get to and generally snap off so need drilling out.
 
Just had my anti-roll bars done at the garage (not a Landrover specialist). At the same time they were removing the remains of a stone from one of the rear brake drums. This involved cleaning up and making sure the drum and pad faces were clean. The whole lot cost £200 which seemed a bit on the high side. Having said that; given I don’t have a ramp, etc etc maybe it wasn’t too bad.

Now the jobs been done though I’ve noticed that when I’m parking which involves a lot of cranking the wheel over and or using the break or the clutch I can feel what seems like something catching. Metal on metal and I can feel it through the clutch pedal and brake. I’ve had a look underneath and can’t see anything obvious and I guess the best thing to do is take it back to the garage – but I’d like to go back to them informed – if you know what I mean.

Is it possible to over tension them or similar when they’re being replaced?

Any help or advice much appreciated.

Cheers.
 
have another look at the dics and pads there may be still some debris in there , and £200 to replace anti roll bar bushes WOW!
 
The four ARB bush clamp bolts are accessible with a couple of long extension bars and a ratchet from above quite easily-no U.J. required on the setup. However the first time I had a go at mine, I found that the crap LR, M8 flanged head bolts* had rusted and the heads were rounded, I had to remove the subframe and drill them out. I retapped them M8 and replaced the bolts with M8 X 25 long stainless standard hex. head setpins*. Coated them with Copper grease on assembly. Last year I decided to fit Polybushes and the bolts came out a treat.

** The original crap LR bolt heads take a 10mm A/F socket and the standard M8 bolts take a 13mm A/F socket.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. It feels like something is actually touching against the levers behind the clutch and break peddles. Sorry; can't think of any better way to describe it. I guess it's back to the garage!
 
hoogle said:
Thanks for the feedback guys. It feels like something is actually touching against the levers behind the clutch and break peddles. Sorry; can't think of any better way to describe it. I guess it's back to the garage!
Click to expand...

You need to check that the end of the anti roll bar isn't catching in the strut. This can happen if the plastic bar retaining clamps come off. If the clamps come off, the bar can slide sideways, catching on the strut. The easiest fix is to use worm drive hose clips in place of the original plastic bar clamps.
 
OK I've traced the problem but just need an answer to a 'daft' question! In essence there seems to be a metal expansion and\or overflow pipe that comes up behind the engine block. It terminates behind the engine block in a shepherds crook type shape or at least a bent over 'U' shape. It's attached to the side of the engine block with a metal clip. However the pipe seems to have come free of the clip and dropped down so that it was sitting on the steering rods and or clutch mechanism. I've lifted it back and clamped it in where it should be. All fine. Checked the steering - all fine - initially until I noticed the problem was back. On further investigation I noticed said pipe was cable tied to one of the steering rods. Each time I turn the wheel and the steering rod moves so does the pipe that is tied to it and hence it pulls from it's engine block holder - drops down and causes the problem all over again. Two questions. 1) What is the pipe for 2) should it be cable tied to one of the steering rods..!!! I'm guessing not! The cable tie looks new so when it was in being 'diagnosed' for a noise at the front (anti-roll bars in the end) the 'mechanic' cable tied this pipe to try and resolve the problem. Like I said earlier in this thread they were not Landrover specialists - or perhaps indeed specialists! Any help as ever much appreciated.
 
did mine ,was very easy ,just dropped the front subframe piece ,applied heat to ensure i did not snap the bolts, took 10 mins start to finish ,well maybe 15 mins lol but very easy to do def a diy job
 
OK a bit more research reveals this is actually the breather hose for the Intermediate Reduction Drive (IRD). From what I can see in the workshop manuals it should only be attached in one place and that's at the side of the engine block. Quite why it's ever been attached to the RH Track Rod with a cable tie remains a mystery. All I need to do now is secure it properly to the engine block. The half clip it's in is slack now so will either have to bend it tight again. Replace, or get some araldite on it so it doesn't come loose again.
 
...and here it is - located properly.
 

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