Chrisfrain2007

Chrisfrain2007

Active Member
Hi guys, just want confirmation in my thoughts, I have the blue wire disconnected, and it slowed my battery drain down, but if the source is close will the stray signals still wake the Becm up?
I'm going to order a new type receiver, to be safe
Cheers
 
My p38 suffered from battery drain due to an early RF unit, I had the blue wire disconnected for about 2 years never had a problem with a flat battery again.

Fitted the latest spec unit 18 months ago, the vehicles always been parked in the same place, about 25 feet from my wireless router, never had a flat battery again.

Fit a new unit and forget about battery problems.
 
I have the mark 2 version which apparently still needs upgrading with the mark 3. But I took the receiver out, wrapped it in tin foil (making holes for the connectors and fixings) and put snap-on ferrite clamps on the power supply lead to the unit. Seems ok so far....
 
I have to say fitting the latest unit has transformed my perception of my motor.
It went from worrying if the bloody thing will start ,planning where to park it at supermarkets to .... a normal car.

Left it two weeks and it still started I was over the moon.
 
Hi, I have just recently bought a p38, 1995 model 2.5d and the owner told me he disconected the remote locking due to battery drain, I would really like to reconnect it, and fix it by upgrading the unit as mentioned in the above posts, where is the unit, and how do i go about changing it? No idea what it even looks like, any help would be most appreciated.
 
NikTheGeek said:
I have the mark 2 version which apparently still needs upgrading with the mark 3. But I took the receiver out, wrapped it in tin foil (making holes for the connectors and fixings) and put snap-on ferrite clamps on the power supply lead to the unit. Seems ok so far....
Click to expand...

Faraday cage, nice one.:):)
 
p38owner2 said:
Hi, I have just recently bought a p38, 1995 model 2.5d and the owner told me he disconected the remote locking due to battery drain, I would really like to reconnect it, and fix it by upgrading the unit as mentioned in the above posts, where is the unit, and how do i go about changing it? No idea what it even looks like, any help would be most appreciated.
Click to expand...

Behind the top parcel shelf support/trim drivers side in the boot. There are 2 units, one for the radio, the other for the FOB:)
 
Do yourself a favour and get the new receiver its about 150 quid from island I say this from experience I disconnected the wire it sort of solved the problem my car was interacting with a neighbours Jeep _ now now not in that way- anyway I sort of muddled through and then it ended up frying both front door locks so just get the new one the BECM doesnt like being mucked about before you have a bigger bill
 
mine is now disconnected via BECM.

you simply lock and unlock with key.

Also isolated the passive alarm and AKA key..

No worries about burns outs, lock outs of battery draining..
:)
 
I just put a flick switch on mine £5 and 10 mins work. Have to remember to turn it off if I'm leaving her for a few days, but hasn't been a problem and saved £150!
Haven't tested to find out what happens if one of the kids switches it off while running - hoping never to find out :D
 
marcinbrighton said:
I just put a flick switch on mine £5 and 10 mins work. Have to remember to turn it off if I'm leaving her for a few days, but hasn't been a problem and saved £150!
Haven't tested to find out what happens if one of the kids switches it off while running - hoping never to find out :D
Click to expand...

Great until it burns your locks out the one time you forget to turn it off:eek:
 
Datatek said:
Great until it burns your locks out the one time you forget to turn it off:eek:
Click to expand...


How would it burn locks out:scratching_chin:? it seems to be quite happy with either the switch on or off for locking (key with it switched off, remote when on). engine won't start with it off (says engine disabled when I forget to switch it on, starts fine when I remember!!:)).

The switch is just on the multiplug going into the receiver - I think blue wire, but has been some time since I had the panel off

I'm nervous now........
 
The RF receiver continually cycles the locks and they burn. Do a search, lots of reports of burnt lock motors.
 
Thanks Datatek

I got the idea for the switch off RR.net - I didn't see anyone on there linking it to the RF when I was researching the battery drain. Plenty on here though!

I reckon it should be fine all the time its switched off, but as you say, the one time I forget...... (and you can be sure she will be superlocked on that occasion!!). Equally, it is probably still sending the spurious signals to the locks when switched on and running.

I've been using the savings on that fix to persuade the better half that I'm not just pouring money into the Rangie :). Darnit!!

Now to just get the EAS up and running (its not pee'ing it down at the moment, so heading out there now), and then work on the missus for the new RF unit. gotta love the landies :)

Cheers

Marc
 
Sorry - should've said, the switch is on the +ve feed to the rf, so the whole thing is disconnected when switched off (but only when switched off :) )
Marc
 
marcinbrighton said:
Thanks Datatek

I got the idea for the switch off RR.net - I didn't see anyone on there linking it to the RF when I was researching the battery drain. Plenty on here though!
Click to expand...

RR.net has a mainly US following, their RF receivers work on a different frequency - and they are better quality to begin with, signal discrimination is far better than the Mk1 and 2 UK ones.
 
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