dag019

dag019

Well-Known Member
Having just got back on the road after fixing the snapped timing belt and associated damage the 110 has decided that it wants some more attention. This time it is the clutch!

At the moment the problem appears to be intermittent and has only done it a couple of times in the last three days making it difficult to replicate and diagnose. There is no fluid loss and no obvious leaks, the clutch was replaced about 50k (2 years) ago and the slave and flexi were replaced at the same time. I am happy to do either again if that turns out to be the problem but this time if feels like it is the master, I would just like to confirm before I purchase a replacement.

The symptoms are the pedal goes almost straight to the floor with very little resistance and only the very last section of travel feels like the clutch should. The bite point when this happens is right on, or possible beyond the floor, but there is enough disengagement to change gear if you are careful. Pumping the clutch seems to make very little or no difference. The next time you use the clutch it will be back to normal. The clutch itself seems normal, there is no slipping, and when it is working properly it is working as expected.

My first thought were the seals beginning to fail in the master and fluid bypassing the piston. Does this sound about right or am i completely off the mark?
 
I have just done the same. I did have a leak in the slave but the master seal had also gone :(
I have changed the whole system apart from the metal pipes.
 
Does sound like master but pop the small cover off the master first and check you haven't got excessive pushrod free play.
Sometimes, I've had it once, the lock nuts come loose and it doesn't take much free play to really effect the operation.
Get a quality master and slave and spend time to carefully remove the master pipework, butcher that and the job starts to grow, not a biggy if you have brake pipe forming tools but a pita if you haven't.
 
Flossie said:
Does sound like master but pop the small cover off the master first and check you haven't got excessive pushrod free play.
Sometimes, I've had it once, the lock nuts come loose and it doesn't take much free play to really effect the operation.
Get a quality master and slave and spend time to carefully remove the master pipework, butcher that and the job starts to grow, not a biggy if you have brake pipe forming tools but a pita if you haven't.
Click to expand...

I will check that this evening, I have the pipe and fitting and flaring tools already after the clucht ipe chaffed though by rubbing against the exhausts. (just and fyi: 6 inches of tinfoil tightly bound with bailer twine will hold enough pressure in the pipework to allow you to use the clutch on the 20 miles home as long as you keep the fluid level topped up).
 
Cheers all for confirming it is most likely a hydraulic issue. I will get both ordered although I doubt they will arrive before Christmas!

I notice paddocks sell a TRW reseal kit, is it worth ordering one of those to refurbish the old cylinder and keep on the shelf or is it not worth it as you 0nly save about £10?
 
I have had trubel with 2 new tew cylinders one lasted 9 months second one leaked straight away on stripping it down cylinder bore had scratch margs on one side
seals looked new though since bought genuine one 3 times price though if I ever bought a tew one again I wouldcheck cylinder bore befor I fitted it
 
8ha said:
I have had trubel with 2 new tew cylinders one lasted 9 months second one leaked straight away on stripping it down cylinder bore had scratch margs on one side
seals looked new though since bought genuine one 3 times price though if I ever bought a tew one again I wouldcheck cylinder bore befor I fitted it
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will bear that in mind. It was a trw slave I fitted with no problems yet, and both master and slave on the series are trw, but maybe I have been lucky so far.
 
knowing my luck I expect iam the only one who has had trubel with trew cylindefs had brand new steering box leaked I n iyear new wheel cylinder leaked straight naway deep scratch on seal cup new distributer drive gear cut scew gear to ribbens in about 2 miles had just given it an oil change so had to give it anothrr one plus strip down oil pump and sump to get rif o bits fitted new front hub seal 1200 miles leaking stub axel perfect on inspecting seal with magnifier it haddips on seal edge
 
dag019 said:
Cheers all for confirming it is most likely a hydraulic issue. I will get both ordered although I doubt they will arrive before Christmas!

I notice paddocks sell a TRW reseal kit, is it worth ordering one of those to refurbish the old cylinder and keep on the shelf or is it not worth it as you 0nly save about £10?
Click to expand...
Have you asked Santa if he can deliver instead? :D:D
 
ogb said:
=Br*tp*rt? Don't go there if you have an alternative. Paddocks may be able to supply a different "brand" if asked, but my experience isn't positive.
Click to expand...
TRW bought out Lucas who made the originals. And are now the oem supplier. They are nothing to do with britpart, who incidentally are also now the oem supplier for some parts.
 
If your master seal is leaking you should see fluid leaking down the back of the clutch pedal and the fluid level should drop. If fluid leaks past your master cylinder seal it escapes from the cylinder, it does not stay inside.
Did you replace the clutch release arm when you did the clutch?
If you are not aware, these can wear through on the pivot and give the symptoms you describe.
If it was a hydraulic issue, you only get the pedal down to the floor symptoms when the reservoir is virtually empty.
The only other remote possibility is that the hole at the bottom of the reservoir has something intermittently blocking it such as a random bit of crap.
 
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