hi all

I’ve put posts up before about what seem like problems with my castor correction arms I fitted after a 2” lift on my 98 300 d1 but this one is to ask if anyone knows why I can’t sort the front prop phasing now the new arms are on?
For a start I thought that the castor was put back rite by the arms and that because of that the prop phasing would be rite when left in the standard orientation, like has happened with other vehicles, but not this time. I’ve now fitted 2 props that are in good condition and that are fine on other vehicles and tried them in all the possible positions on my disco and non of them sort the phasing to an even near acceptable level, some ways are better than others but they all seem to fall into one of two categories...bad and horrific, il be honest I’m lost

Any advice really appreciated

Thanks

Towsey

What's the actual problem? Vibration from the prop or what?

Maybe it's not the props that are the problem.

Col

It's right, not rite

Have you tried running without the front prop to ensure it is that which is the issue?

With a lift you are likely to need wide angle yokes on the props. You could try adding a spacer and see if this helps on the ones you have.

towsey956 said:

hi all

I’ve put posts up before about what seem like problems with my castor correction arms I fitted after a 2” lift on my 98 300 d1 but this one is to ask if anyone knows why I can’t sort the front prop phasing now the new arms are on?
For a start I thought that the castor was put back rite by the arms and that because of that the prop phasing would be rite when left in the standard orientation, like has happened with other vehicles, but not this time. I’ve now fitted 2 props that are in good condition and that are fine on other vehicles and tried them in all the possible positions on my disco and non of them sort the phasing to an even near acceptable level, some ways are better than others but they all seem to fall into one of two categories...bad and horrific, il be honest I’m lost

Any advice really appreciated

Thanks

Towsey

Click to expand...

caster correction makes prop angle worse its supposed to help self centering,this will also show up any other wear in the drive train ie pinion bearings or output bearing

Thanks for all the replies

Problem is what feels like front prop phasing being very very wrong at about 20-30mph and a sort of odd resination/vibration on over run at about 60-70mph, I’ve driven with front prop off a few times now and all is well when it’s off. The harder I’m on the throttle at 20-30 the worse it is, fair enough I’m as gentle as possible, and I’m now starting to get a little bit of play in the tbox front output bearing which wasn’t there before all this. The prop isn’t binding but I have not tried a spacer on it but I know a friend with a spacer I could prob borrow, wot size and which end is suggested please, I think if it goes tbox end then it might make it bind. It wasnt bad at all when it was lifted and on standard arms apart from the springs and shocks not sitting rite which I don’t know weather or not would be an issue long term or off road but because I’ve bought, blasted and painted then pressed genuine bushes in I’d quite like the arms to stay if possible. Am I rite in thinking that on a 2” lift with standard arms people are able to adjust the phasing till it feels rite again.
I’ve spoken to the place I got the arms from and sent pics of them being totally different lengths to standard and also where the chassis end bushes sit is a lot shorter on these meaning that when tightened up they are squashed really really tight...the response I got was that I had fitted them wrong and apparently your meant to just run the nyloc down till it takes the slack up on the bushes and then just leave it there half way down the thread!

Thanks again

Towsey

Hi all
OK so a 2" spring lift but with standard arms bows the springs out towards the front cos of the spring seat angle, then 3 degree castor correction arms put this rite...so does anyone else thinks these look like 6 degree arms on my 2" lift which is why the springs are bowed backwards instead, and could this also explain why I can't sort my phasing even after trying all 16 positions and why it still drives like the castor is out...basically over correcting the castor

Grateful for and advice

Thanks

Towsey

Anyone any ideas or advice please

Cheers

towsey956 said:

Anyone any ideas or advice please

Cheers

Click to expand...

spring plates has a slight angle forward as standard if you add taller springs that would increase fitting castor correction should put that back to the std slight forward lean ,not a rear lean

What do hub centres measure, front to back? Surely you need to keep measurement as original to keep castor correct

Thanks for replies

To be honest I didnt really notice forward lean of the spring seat as standard (but I do take your word for it )and I didn’t measure hub centres before or after fitting these arms mainly because I didn’t expect any of this going on to be honest but these arms are 10mm shorter to where the first big washer sits. Wot you describe James is exactly wot has happened before on other vehicles, I was just checking I’m talking sense ha. I guess I’m just so frustrated/upset/annoyed because I fitted something that was meant to help and all it’s done is made me not like my disco anymore instead, and I’m convinced these arms are wrong somewhere and all I get from the supplier is told I’ve fitted them wrong because their manufacturer has said they were made right? So I don’t even know wot to do there either

Thanks again

Towsey