Bern768

Bern768

Well-Known Member
I went to look at another P38 and ended up buying it (had to put it on a recovery truck to get it home) :eek: it's a 98 DSE with a manual box in it says select neutral if you try to change range which is I'm certain I've already sussed that fault as the remote is like a pudding stirrer (stays in high range and moves fine ), my only major concern with it really is the EAS doesn't work , when the ignition is on/running the compressor runs and it looks new , I haven't had chance to look at it yet or plug it in , any pointers on common bits would be greatly helpful as would like to get it sorted and keep this one on air if I can ;)
 
Bern768 said:
I went to look at another P38 and ended up buying it (had to put it on a recovery truck to get it home) :eek: it's a 98 DSE with a manual box in it says select neutral if you try to change range which is I'm certain I've already sussed that fault as the remote is like a pudding stirrer (stays in high range and moves fine ), my only major concern with it really is the EAS doesn't work , when the ignition is on/running the compressor runs and it looks new , I haven't had chance to look at it yet or plug it in , any pointers on common bits would be greatly helpful as would like to get it sorted and keep this one on air if I can ;)
Click to expand...
I want another one as well now:p
Actually I've got enough having one to bloody fix... (own doing) :rolleyes:
 
Select neutral will probably be the little collar on the selector that the neutral switch works off there was e jlr tech bulletin on it. to sort it its a box out job or you pull the connector of the switch and bridge with a jumper cable and it will work just remember never to press low when in gear .
on the eas check for melted pipes by the exhaust
 
brianp38dse said:
Select neutral will probably be the little collar on the selector that the neutral switch works off there was e jlr tech bulletin on it. to sort it its a box out job or you pull the connector of the switch and bridge with a jumper cable and it will work just remember never to press low when in gear .
on the eas check for melted pipes by the exhaust
Click to expand...
the neutral bit Im not worried about as I knew about the collar issue in the selectors was a common thing , will check those pipes when I get chance later and take my diag home and plug it in , I do have the complete system off my sprung P38 so I'm hoping I can get it working with bits from that if needs be :cool:
 
Bern768 said:
I went to look at another P38 and ended up buying it (had to put it on a recovery truck to get it home) :eek: it's a 98 DSE with a manual box in it says select neutral if you try to change range which is I'm certain I've already sussed that fault as the remote is like a pudding stirrer (stays in high range and moves fine ), my only major concern with it really is the EAS doesn't work , when the ignition is on/running the compressor runs and it looks new , I haven't had chance to look at it yet or plug it in , any pointers on common bits would be greatly helpful as would like to get it sorted and keep this one on air if I can ;)
Click to expand...
If the compressor is running and actually making pressure, then there will be a leak somewhere. You need to run it for 10 minutes with a door open to fill the tank, then shut the door for it to rise.
First step, check the pump is making pressure.
 
Datatek said:
If the compressor is running and actually making pressure, then there will be a leak somewhere. You need to run it for 10 minutes with a door open to fill the tank, then shut the door for it to rise.
First step, check the pump is making pressure.
Click to expand...
Ideal is there a test points or is it a pull a pipe off job ?
 
Bern768 said:
Ideal is there a test points or is it a pull a pipe off job ?
Click to expand...
Just undo the compressor mounts and lift it enough to undo one joint on the blue pipe. If you can put your thumb over the end of the pipe with the pump running and it stays there the pump is knackered. Pumps usually fail because they have been feeding a leak. Air springs have a design life of 7/8 years 80K miles, if they have never been replaced for sure they will be leaking.
 
Datatek said:
Just undo the compressor mounts and lift it enough to undo one joint on the blue pipe. If you can put your thumb over the end of the pipe with the pump running and it stays there the pump is knackered. Pumps usually fail because they have been feeding a leak. Air springs have a design life of 7/8 years 80K miles, if they have never been replaced for sure they will be leaking.
Click to expand...
Nice one thank you :D will start from there :cool:
 
brianp38dse said:
Select neutral will probably be the little collar on the selector that the neutral switch works off there was e jlr tech bulletin on it. to sort it its a box out job or you pull the connector of the switch and bridge with a jumper cable and it will work just remember never to press low when in gear .
on the eas check for melted pipes by the exhaust
Click to expand...
^^^^wot he said about check for burst air line. Mechanic found one on mine yesterday on line to air reservoir tank. All hunky dory now. Don't let your compressor run too long and burn out...
 
Right then you lovely lot I actually got chance to have a look at it this evening, the compressor runs and I have taken the pipe off of it and can just about hold my finger on it with it running so I'm assuming that it's not strong enough , but I have a massive fault code list as follows
IMG20220310192310.jpg
IMG20220310192251.jpg

If anybody could share some light on some of them that would be fantastic as I know a lot of you love the air suspension and wouldn't want me to put another one on springs :D
 
Henry_b said:
Hmm looks like you need the EAS cable and the RSW software, far better than the strap on unit for EAS work..

All the above faults look spurious due to no comms.
Click to expand...
If I go into the live data section all the data is there ie height overide enabled and registers me pressing buttons etc and I can see all the height values etc , so not sure , surely if Comms was lost I wouldn't be able to connect to it ?
 
Take the silencer off the valve block, open a door and wait for the the pump to blow off when it's finished charging the tank. Upto ten minutes.
If it takes too long the pump will overheat and you can get valve stuck faults as the car doesn't lift and the target heights aren't hit. Using a more specific software or diagnostic will get exact results instead of possible
mis-coms.:)
 
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