Had my Range Rover P38 (DSE) for five years (when low mileage, one owner), now has 118K on it. Also a 1962 Rover P4 (built on 'series' Landrover chassis?). Despite having serviced my own vehicles since the sixties I was precious with the P38, at first, submitting it to garages a few times - reminding me why I have serviced and repaired all my own vehicles since the sixties!
I've done several jobs on it, including fitting the 'Rimmer Power Box' and converted it to springs and shocks (yes you can get over it!).
I joined 'Landy Zone' the other day to pick up some insight for a continuing cold start problem, after having replaced the glow plugs (plus inlet manifold gaskets) to no recogniseable improvement.
I found a nice little test on the site for the glow plug relay: checking voltage at each plug separately, after turning ignition to 'pre-warm' (you can reach all six plugs by the way, by making up a long probe for your test meter -using steel piano wire or similar, insulated along it's length with a bit of shrink fit).
No problems found here, all reading a healthy 12 volts. Also tightened battery terminals which were not firm enough for my liking.
However, came to restart and got a familiar 'clickety click' from the starter motor solenoid - the previous apparently-healthy-sounding turnover now resulting in the engine refusing to spin. I guess the problem has revealed itself now with that extra electical load, through switching the pre-heat system on and off so much (?)
Anyway, this might prove insightful for some. Nice to link up with the like-minded.
Doug
I've done several jobs on it, including fitting the 'Rimmer Power Box' and converted it to springs and shocks (yes you can get over it!).
I joined 'Landy Zone' the other day to pick up some insight for a continuing cold start problem, after having replaced the glow plugs (plus inlet manifold gaskets) to no recogniseable improvement.
I found a nice little test on the site for the glow plug relay: checking voltage at each plug separately, after turning ignition to 'pre-warm' (you can reach all six plugs by the way, by making up a long probe for your test meter -using steel piano wire or similar, insulated along it's length with a bit of shrink fit).
No problems found here, all reading a healthy 12 volts. Also tightened battery terminals which were not firm enough for my liking.
However, came to restart and got a familiar 'clickety click' from the starter motor solenoid - the previous apparently-healthy-sounding turnover now resulting in the engine refusing to spin. I guess the problem has revealed itself now with that extra electical load, through switching the pre-heat system on and off so much (?)
Anyway, this might prove insightful for some. Nice to link up with the like-minded.
Doug
