F

Freelander1banger

Active Member
Hello! as per the title ive got a knock/tappet sound, only appears to be when warm, but sometimes happens cold.. other than this it runs perfectly.

It seems to of appeared after i did the HG on it, i did replace the hydralic lifters back in the exact order they came out..

tried resetting the injector backlash, then tried turning it a 1/8th tighter than a full turn out but seemed no different so reset them back to a full turn out. checked all the clamp/camshaft bolt torques they all seem fine still.. im lost?

Someone said maybe the injector harness?

this isnt my video but sounds the exact same;

thankyou!
 
Mine made a similar "knocking" noise after I did my head swap.
I kept the hydraulic tappets in order BUT I forgot to keep them upright (the book says to keep them upright) I had them in bags.
It started tapping as soon as it started and pretty much did from then on.
Didn't affect the performance, and the chap who bought it from me wasn't bothered.
Mark
 
markomate2 said:
Mine made a similar "knocking" noise after I did my head swap.
I kept the hydraulic tappets in order BUT I forgot to keep them upright (the book says to keep them upright) I had them in bags.
It started tapping as soon as it started and pretty much did from then on.
Didn't affect the performance, and the chap who bought it from me wasn't bothered.
Mark
Click to expand...
Hmm that’s interesting, I wouldn’t of thought the orientation would make a difference since I doubt they’re kept upright when packaged from new, but must be a reason it’s stated. I put mine back in order but they were laid down on cardboard next to the injectors etc
 
Immediately after replacing my cylinder head, a hydraulic lasher gave up - but it sounded different. The sound from my video was because a 10P Injector in my 15P engine. Be aware, if a hydraulic lasher is not working propery and a valve is not closing properly it could be possible that valve seat damaged by the high temperatures from exhaust gases.
 
Mario110 said:
Immediately after replacing my cylinder head, a hydraulic lasher gave up - but it sounded different. The sound from my video was because a 10P Injector in my 15P engine. Be aware, if a hydraulic lasher is not working propery and a valve is not closing properly it could be possible that valve seat damaged by the high temperatures from exhaust gases.
Click to expand...
If it is tapping it is more than likely that it is not filling with oil and thus not taking up the clearance properly, hence the tapping noise. So if the gap is bigger than it should have been the valve will open late and close early. But it will close properly in the sense that it will close fully. Other possible damage will depend on whether it is an inlet or an exhaust but generally speaking it won't cause much damage at all.
 
Mario110 said:
In my case an inlet valve was not closing properly :eek: But all is fixed and running :cool:
Click to expand...
That must have been due to a dodgy spring, a bent valve, a dodgy valve guide or summat, wasn't it? After all it is the spring that closes it, not the tappet or cam. follower.
Would be intrigued to find out how that can have caused a tappet to tap, on its own.
 
Good question, the only difference prior work was to replace the hydraulic lashers. Perhaps we have not worked cleanly enough and one of the lasher got clogged so oil pressure was to high and the lasher before was lengthened because of this?
 
Mario110 said:
Good question, the only difference prior work was to replace the hydraulic lashers. Perhaps we have not worked cleanly enough and one of the lasher got clogged so oil pressure was to high and the lasher before was lengthened because of this?
Click to expand...
Maybe, but not obvious at all. I have had valves burning before but usually that was due to them not seating properly due to wear in the valve guide. My Dolomite Sprint engine did it for a pastime.
But you are right cleanliness is everything. And maybe somehow cleaning out the lashers so they will be ready for the nice clean oil.
OR did you turn the engine over on the starter till the oil pressure light went out before putting the fuel/ignition back on and allowing it to run properly at tickover? If the lasher ran dry it could possibly have seized a bit or run tight. seeing as how they work on having oil in 'em.
At least it is all running OK now!!!:):)
 
Maybe, but not obvious at all. I have had valves burning before but usually that was due to them not seating properly due to wear in the valve guide. My Dolomite Sprint engine did it for a pastime.
Click to expand...
:confused:
But you are right cleanliness is everything. And maybe somehow cleaning out the lashers so they will be ready for the nice clean oil.
OR did you turn the engine over on the starter till the oil pressure light went out before putting the fuel/ignition back on and allowing it to run properly at tickover? If the lasher ran dry it could possibly have seized a bit or run tight. seeing as how they work on having oil in 'em.
Click to expand...
We've turned the engine multiple times by hand, then turned it without starting some seconds and then reconnected the ECU - but I cannot remember if we had a look on the oil pressure light....
At least it is all running OK now!!!
Click to expand...
Yes and I've learned something for the next time! o_O
 
Just a quick note to add to my comment, my engine did another 20,000 miles after the head change with no issues.
I did read somewhere that it's possible to "refill" the hydraulic tappets, but I doubt it.
 
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